Club 80-90 Forums

kevtherev wrote:It will bleed itself as long as the reservoir is full.
The slave cylinder is bled from the top.

Just crack open the bleed nipple...let the fluid run out and keep the reservoir topped up

Thank you all for your help. Managed to bleed the slave from the top of the engine bay and clutch now functioning ok. Will keep the resevoir topped up from now on!!

Now it is just the 'bleeding' fan heater to sort !! Sort of whirred, clanked and came to a stop. Then started blowing fuses. From everthing I have read it is not the most convenient item to access on a T25, so I tried the drilling through the front bulkhead and spraying with a release agent with extra long nozzle. Did manage to get the lubricant well inside the fan assembly (by drilling second hole to view and a long pipe torch). Anyway did not work so now I am faced with the long version....

This T25 ownership can be so much pain to get the pleasure sometimes....especially now that my girlfriend (for whom I bought the wretched machine in the first place) has dumped me because I am not ambitious enough. Ho Hum...

joyful wrote:
This T25 ownership can be so much pain to get the pleasure sometimes.....

That's why this forum exists... sharing the pain, easing the pain.
if you become a member you can get face to face consultations at various gatherings around the country, where medicine is available for serious cases of self doubt.

Fluid leak is from the front by the steering wheel, looks like in the area of the master cylinder. Read the book on replacement. Seems ok. Is it best to just fit new rather than fitting new seals.

Fit new!

I have just had to order a new master cylinder for mine, the seal kits don't appear to be in stock anywhere in the UK.

If the "just open the bleed nipple trick" (allowing gravity/capillary action to draw the fluid through isn't working or is going too slow for you I found that you can do it on your own by laying under the van, placing a clear tube on the bleed nipple and put the other end into a clean glass jar with some clean brake fluid in (enough to cover the end of the pipe). Open the bleed nipple and press the clutch lever on the slave cylinder upwards, this will expel some air or bubbles, keep the lever pressed and tighten the nipple then release the lever. Repeat many times until no more air bubbles appear, you will feel the difference as increased resistance too. I had to do this on my own the other night and was the only way I could get the completely empty new hydraulic pipes to fill with fluid. this was because the seals on my old master cylinder had failed (I think they flipped when I tried to prime the system the old fashioned way with someone pressing the pedal whilst I opened and closed the bleed nipple)

I must invest in a non return valve so I can do things much easier next time.....