Club 80-90 Forums

Found a copy of the pic and some words =

ghost123uk wrote:

KarlT wrote:Also more thoughts...........
Cleaned out the bleed pipes from top of engine. This was in one............



While the other was blocked by plastic, the T' junction mold hadn't been cleaned out properly, Had to drill it out. I'm sure the pressure build-up is what eventually caused the seals to go.

Go & check your bleed pipes, Just disconnect from engine & check that coolant can run out. If it can't look further

I too have had the silt
Bleed pipe

I take it you've ignored our advice about ditching the spanner monkey then ?

spanner monkey is ditched
got a new spanner monkey
who says the rad is blocked
popped into him today gave him 8 litres of g12 coolant and the info on blocked bleed pipes he is flushing the rad at the weekend
so fingers crossed.is flushing the rad a big hard job
he said he is doing it from the engine up to the rad
thanks again lads for the advice.

It just takes time with so many pipes, but if it works out, much cheaper than a new engine, as is a new radiator if that is needed!

ladybird wrote:is flushing the rad a big hard job

Not really. Drop the spare wheel, and both pipes are easily visible.

he said he is doing it from the engine up to the rad

It'd be easier and better to do it right at the rad, I'd have thought.

Or just lob a new rad in. They're not exactly eye-wateringly expensive.

i will wait to see what he says before purchasing a new one
thanks adrian/ralph

I've just flushed a system from the engine compartment..........easy. The advantage of doing it from the back (apart from not grovelling on the floor getting wet) is that you get to flush the long front-to-back pipes at the same time. The amount of carp you can flush out can be mind boggling. Two people makes the job easier.

Disconnect the flow and return large hoses from the engine. Stick a garden hose (without any kind of nozzle) in the end of one of the hoses, and wrap with a rag to make a water tight seal, then tighten up the hose clip on this joint enough to hold it together. Point the other hose towards a bucket. Turn on the hose as fast as it will go without blowing out of the hose. When it runs totally clear, reverse the flow and do the same. Then while you're at it turn the heater control in the cab on to "hot" and do the same again with the two smaller hoses and the heater circuit.

Then you'll know they are both clear

colinthefox wrote:The advantage of doing it from the back (apart from not grovelling on the floor getting wet) is that you get to flush the long front-to-back pipes at the same time. The amount of carp you can flush out can be mind boggling. Two people makes the job easier.

If there's that much carp in the pipes, do you really want to push half of it TOWARDS the rad...?

It all comes out.

If there is that much CARP in the pipes you may need a rod and line and some boilies to attract them out.

mechanic just rang and said he flushed the system
and lots of gunk came out and know the van is running sweet and has been for 3hrs without stopping whooo
but the temp guage still shoots up to the red
fan comes on when it should
nothing over heating
i told him kevs advice about earthing but he is un sure
any other ideas.

[quote="ladybird"]but the temp guage still shoots up to the redquote]

Hi,

Are you still running your bodged temp gauge you posted about a while ago - something about a golf gauge?

Cheers,

Alex

yes still running the golfy one would that make a difference....

balls it broke down again
time for a subaru engine..