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Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 09:22
by ghost123uk
You are probably right in the assumptions you make here.
As they are not expensive, and easy to fit, you might as well change both of them. Note tho that the one that normally causes these symptoms is the
higher pressure rated one ( by the water pump ).
I got mine from GSF
They list 2 types for the rear ( near the water pump ) one.
One is a single wire type ( black plastic bit ) and the other is a 2 wire affair, forget the colour code, ( poss blue ? ) I think you will find that yours is the single wire black one but best look before ordering.
It looks very hard to get at but actually once you get underneath with a decent torch, you can see it and replace it without too much fuss.
Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 09:32
by ghost123uk
GSF online =
http://www.gsfcarparts.com/
GSF email =
sales@gsfcarparts.com
GSF phone = Mail Order Hotline Tel 0208 917 3800
I just looked at the part numbers and it is a bit confusing.
I think I rang them and the guy I spoke to knew exactly which ones to send

Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 10:50
by Hacksawbob
Hi ghost can you remove the high pressure in situ without removing water pump? I had a look once and though, Hope I never have to get to that! Also seem to have lost the link to the website with the picture about the DOPS from the wiki does anyone have the link?
Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 11:07
by ghost123uk
Hacksawbob wrote:Hi ghost can you remove the high pressure in situ without removing water pump? I had a look once and though, Hope I never have to get to that! Also seem to have lost the link to the website with the picture about the DOPS from the wiki does anyone have the link?
Yep
When I first looked at it I thought it was going to be a s0d and that at least the water pump would have to come off.
But it is atcually not at all hard.
I fitted an old oil switch off god knows what, just to plug the hole until the proper replacement arrived from GSF. I did not wire this temp switch up, just earthed the brown wire to stop the buzzer. ( mine was not a buzzer problem, it was a leak from a crack in the plastic bit of the switch). So I did it twice in a week.
The trick is to get underneath with your legs to the front and head a bit to the nearside, with a decent torch. You can then get a spanner on it without too much trouble.
Do not forget the torch, it really helps

Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 18:40
by Hacksawbob
ta wiki'd
Posted: 09 Oct 2006, 08:45
by johncelliot
Just to follow up on this...
Over the weekend, I replaced both oil pressure sensors. I did have to pick up a deep socket (can't remember the size right now) to do it. I was able to quite easily access both of the sensors.
The one below the water pump was not as bad as it looked. There was a big enough gap for me to get the socket in and take it off. It did look as if this sensor (the high/low pressure sensor) had never been changed, or not changed for a long time.
The low/low pressure sensor (between the pushrod tubes) was easy to remove (warning - oil does leak out when you pull this one out, so have the replacement ready). This one looked like it had been changed more recently.
I drove it around quite a bit (an amount that would have led to intermittent buzzing before the sensor change) and it has not buzzed at me once since the sensor change. Fingers crossed, the problem is solved. I am hoping that it was just buzzing prematurely because the high/low pressure sensor was wearing out.
I suppose time will tell. This Friday I am heading off on a 300 mile round trip, so that will be the real test.
thanks everyone for your help.
John