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Re: Does anyone have a handbrake that actually works well?

Posted: 05 Jul 2013, 21:36
by Ian Hulley
discipleofsketch wrote:Does anyone have a handbrake that actually works well ?

Yes thanks.

Re: Does anyone have a handbrake that actually works well?

Posted: 06 Jul 2013, 06:49
by blacky
Mine was poor until I took cables off and lubed them with wd40 and oil as they felt dry and creaky. Much better now. Also the proper way to adjust a handbrake is to slacken it fully till the levers in drum are in fully off position, then adjust shoe adjusters, then adjust handbrake that way you get max leverage on the shoe levers. i.e. if they are already halfway on and you adjust handbrake you are losing some of the leverage effect.

Re: Does anyone have a handbrake that actually works well?

Posted: 06 Jul 2013, 07:36
by richlaz
I tested mine yesterday. 3 clicks (I would really struggle to get a fourth), and I couldn't pull off in first gear, engine stalled. :-D

Re: Does anyone have a handbrake that actually works well?

Posted: 06 Jul 2013, 08:33
by croc
Hi
I just had an MOT fail due to rear brake and handbrake efficiency 15%!
The drums are fine as are the shoes.
Replaced wheel cylinders - luckily because one bleeder was broken off.
Many of the pins and shoe retainers rusted completely away.
The handbrake lever attached to the rear shoe was rusted and very hard to pivot as it should. Cable attaches to this.
This resulted in brakes dragging ( not releasing).
Also the cylinders probably leaking or about to as there was fluid under the dust caps.
The fix cost about £25 being -
new wheel cylinders about £6 each ( on special at Euro's) normally 11-12 ish. Its not worth trying to just fit new rubbers.
Shoe mounting kit (GSF) £12 ish.
Also had to have a new brake pipe from flexi to wheel cylinder - because previous mech hadn't bothered to use brake grease on the nut threads and bleeder threads!

Few hours on cleaning and refitting it all and a little pre-adjusting to give the self adjuster a chance to fine tune the adjustment.
... and job done - MOT pass and good braking again, including handbrake!! :ok all for about $25-30.
Plus a bit of brake cleaner and copper slip and brake grease. Don't forget the caps on the bleeders when you finish!
Not technically difficult just a bit dirty and tiresome - just make a sketch or have a manual handy for the springs and clips whereabouts.
After doing mine IMHO it would be better to overhaul at the wheels first before spending on cables etc. They may be needed later but problems at the wheels more likely.

Jon