Club 80-90 Forums

OK so the Audi 200 friction disc is close but not quite the same...

Having just reinstalled the gearbox, I found that the whole thing went on a bit too easily which suggests to me that the spline engagement is less than with the original 22S disc fitted. The thought of stripping the end off the input shaft is giving me the willies, so out it comes again...

The cover and release bearing fit pefectly, even though the INA bearing has a longer bearing sleeve in the centre.

Backup plan is this:

http://www.autoandindustrial.co.uk/inde ... e=clutches" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I pulled the gearbox again last night to check where the splines actually start to meet. There is only about 15mm of the input shaft spline engaged in the clutch centre

Friction disc is now away for replacement facings at Auto and Industrial Friction Services.

Warning: If anyone has sent their bus away and had the complete Audi 200 clutch fitted i.e you didn't do the work yourself, there may be a risk of the input shaft splines wearing prematurely or stripping completely if you get over-enthusiastic.

I know it's a lot of hassle, but get it checked. A stripped 24 spline SA input shaft will be a lot more aggro.

Thanks for giving me a few more grey hairs Ian. Mine had a 3 piece replacement just before I bought it. Now I'm going to need to drop it to check.

Yes this is thought provoking for me as well! I suspect in fact that it would be fine, the clutch and splines can take a lot more power than the SA vans put out, and its before any torque multiplication from the gearbox. Maybe there is variation between different brands of clutch? I'll certainly be doing some measuring if I have to change my clutch though!

Tbh you shouldn't need to disconnect much or drain down, removing all the bellhousing bolts and rear mount, unbolting the inner cv's so you can roll the gearbox over in gear, the two bolts for the gear linkage, thats about it.
Lift the nose of the engine (mind those two M10 bolts!) to get the 1st/rev cover to clear the crossmember, I took the front mount off complete.
Maybe unhook the front end of the exhaust to help the engine tilt, depends on what it's got fitted and what state it's in.
If you can get the block / belllhousing gap more than 24-25mm before it disengages then you should be ok.
Thete was a good reason why SA had a specific clutch for these buses. Even LT's only have a 228mm dia!
PS I knocked up a platform for my trolley jack, it helps to find the balance point of the trans, they weigh nearly 60kg and you have no arm leverage on ramps...

How's about a piccie of your trolley jack mod then.

Ha! Its not as good as the one 10c built... Just some leftover bits of 25sq ERW and some light angle hastily welded together. Its ok but I made the jack pad area too loose and it could do with some kind of angle adjustment (not easy)
Better than balancing it though.

Ok here are the pics that show the dramatic difference between SA and Audi 200 friction plate.
Recon SA plate has black sprayed centre:

This is the gearbox side of the disc:


In the last pic, note that the steel bar isnt even resting on the Audi clutch spline boss and it has about 1mm clearance plus another 3-4mm depth of chamfer before the splines start.

Having just had the clutch done on my 2.5i Microbus, I was pleased to see that old clutch had the splines offset towards the gearbox. It was sent to Precision Clutch, who turned it around next day and sent it back looking like new. I now see that Winkler sell a SA clutch kit,but at twice the price of reconditioning.

https://www.vw-winkler.de/Kupplung-240- ... nal-VAG-SA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Now I can go up hills, passed MOT today as well so a good result.

Got a link for Precision Clutch? I had new friction plates put on mine by Automotive & Industrial Friction Services. Cheap as chips!
http://www.autoandindustrial.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here you go
http://www.precisionclutch.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

that friction plate looks the same as the one that was in my van


228mm
My problem is i have a 2.3 engine that was fitted with a homemade bellhousing [not by me its been in there about 12 years and 3 owners] which leaks oil. i have a new SA bellhousing but the cutrrent pressure plate fouls the SA bellhousing so it wont go on. im guessing i have the pressure plate that would go on the engine when it was in the audi part number is 124 0056 10


any ideas what i need to get back on the road?
are the part numbers mentioned earlier suitable for my 2.3
VW Parts No's are:
Cover BCY141117
Plate 22S141031A
Bearing 088141165A

are the fly wheels different?
any ides?
cheers all

You need the flywheel to carry the 240mm clutch, otherwise the starter wont reach the ring gear. The SA clutch cover is same as early Audi quattro coupe, the plate is a special (wbx centre, 240mm dia with heavier damping springs)
Audi release brg is same as wbx.

Some people have used the complete quattro clutch (24 spline type iirc, same as wbx) but the offset on the spline hub is wrong, resulting in a less than ideal engagement of around 15mm.

the starter works with the current flywheel the current audi pressure plate fouls the south african bellhousing ( currently has a homemade bellhousing) do i need to find a new flywheel or will the early Audi quattro coupe/ SA clutch fit mine.
sorry for being a bit thick but the more im finding out the less im understanding

Likewise confused. What parts do you want to use?
Pics of the mystery bellhousing and flywheel might help but its a long shot.
BCY and 22S part numbers are SA locally made stuff. Not got etka at home to check.