Club 80-90 Forums

Oldiebut goodie wrote:It seems odd to that you go to such lengths to repair it with aluminium, pop rivets and filler/fibreglass. Why not do the job correctly from the start and rebuild the corner with fibreglass alone? Far easier and stronger than all that faffing about with various components. Make a mould of the corner. Chop out all the delaminated area, nice long chamfer to the edges and lay up a new piece. You could even give a couple of extra layers to strengthen that load bearing area.
You may well have a boatyard close that does grp repairs that could do it for you easily.

You will need fiberglass and resin you will need gel coat if you don't use filer and then you have to make a mould. OK its the correct way but is it easier.

5 minutes to make a mould! You need fibreglass and resin for doing it with metal plates, rivets and fibreglass anyway!

So how do you propose to Finnish it as fiberglass does not sand smooth. The plastic padding is for a light filler designed for fiberglass.

Gel coat as normal! You have now made the mould - so use it!

Method 1.
Make a mould to fit front corner
Paint with release agent
Paint on gell coat
Lay up with fiberglass mat
Cut roof for new insert
Cot insert to fit roof
Cut fiberglass to lay up joint
Lay up joint
Rub down
regel coat
Rub dowen

Parts req
gell coat
Parts for mould
Release agent
Fiberglass and resin

Method 2

Fit a bracket to hold steady
Cut out joint
Lay up fiberglass covering bracket and split
Fill with fiberglass filler

Parts req

Ally
Pop rivets
Fiberglass and resin
Filler

Both methods work I leave it up to you

Thank you both for the help, I think although oldies method would be best if time and money wasn't an option I think nicq's is more in my realm lol

Can I ask what you mean by "cut out joint"? I don't even own a rivet gun so will have to get one, and source some suitable aluminium. Any ideas? Is ebay silly for that kinda thing even given my small amount?

If you have a local engineering company they will probably give you a bit out of their scrap metal. You only use the metal to hold it in a stable condition whilst fiberglassing. As you will be covering the metal with fiberglass you can hold it with self tappers then take them out before you use the filler.
Cut out joint means to cut the split open a bit larger to allow you to force fiberglass into the gap bonding both sides together.
Make sure you cover the whole area with cut sheet fiberglass several inches either side of the split and don't forget to drill the end of the split to stop it splitting again.
You have to work quite quickly as the resin goes of quite quickly. Mix the resin and stipple it ( push it in on with the end of the brush) on the fiberglass mat
Cleanliness is next to godliness for a strong repair

OK so I have sourced some aluminium sheet from work, bit thinner than 20 gauge but will do the job.

Now I don't own or have ever used a rivet gun etc so not entirely sure what's the best to get. I usually turn to ebay and 3 days later it's magically at my door.

Are there specific sized rivets etc I should be looking for? Anyone know of any good ones to go for that doesn't cost the earth?

Would this suffice for the rivets?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Riveting ... 3ccf2d7977

And this for the fibre glass repair kit?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/fibre-glass-r ... 589b05e8c5

That's fine the rivets are only to hold the ally and the old fiberglass roof stable while you do the repair so any rivets 1/8 or 3/16 will do the job. Try to countersink the rivets a little so you won't have bumps to cover when you fill at the end. Good luck

Great advice guys, just ordered rivet gun and fibre repair kit. Regarding the washers, bit of a silly question but I assume i buy say 1/8" washers to be used with same size rivets? looking about ebay can only see washers in mm and not sure what to get for that sized rivet, if anyone could post a link that'd be much appreciated. Failing that ill take rivet to tool shop or something and just test the diameters.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200-QUALITY-A ... 35c6afd485" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Pop-blind ... 6678661%26" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Legend thank you

About to tackle this in next week. Can I ask in order to countersink the rivets do I use a normal drill bit or are there flat head bits that make life easier? I assume the normal ones have a point so it will be hard to make an even countersink for the flat rivet washer?

Anyone? I am not sure how to countersink the washer as my normal countersink bits will make a V slope.

How about a 120 degree countersink bit , still a V but much shallower angle