Club 80-90 Forums

Whats the other one like?

Thanks for the replies all.

The other ones still on the van, which is pushed up against the side of the garage. It's probably similar condition.

Just taken it to show my welder and he reckons he can sort it. But he also said if I can find one cheap enough then get it. Probably looking about £50 to repair it including the spring base from Brickwerks. I remember seeing a few trailing arms at Vanfest for about £65. So similar really!

What millimetre metal would you use to repair it?

Jon.

Same as whats on there - thick stuff. Someone should be able to give a definitive answer on gauge but its thicker than your average body panel. 2mm? I do recommend that old trailing arms are grit blasted (cheap) so you can actually see whats left - also makes it easier for the welder as it'll be clean rather than rusty metal. Yes, that should be repairable but it'll need the entire top taking off I reckon. He should soon be able to whip through that with the angle grinder - most of it will be like baco-foil now.

As long as its a good repair, linished smooth and painted, it will be fine.

Jonnyb416 wrote:
What millimetre metal would you use to repair it?

Jon.

iirc, the metal was 2mm.
Pic of plates made up:


Pic showing arm to be reinforced:


Pic of plate offered up to arm before welding:
(This was seam welded into place then the Brickwerks spring plate was welded on top, and trimmed to the same shape)

Cheers Fairywynds, needed your input.

You also need to check bush eyes as these can corrode too. Again a good grit blasting will reveal any horrors. Tis also possible to resleeve those providing the integrity of the surrounding metal is known.

CovKid- Got it, grit/sand blast. I will
Fairwynds-Beltin. You could have just helped save a trailing arm

The seat isn't very thin so I have hopes for that. I was thinking 3mm!

Will post the results.
Cheers again.

Jon.

With 3mm I doubt very much you'd even need the strengthener.

Thought id share a picture of the trailing arms current state. All MIGed up after a good sand blast. The blasting showed only a small hole under where the spring seat was and pretty much mint everywhere else. It's now in primer so just going to paint with Hamerite and maybe throw some other types of protective paint on there for good luck.

If you fancy taking pics when the bushes are being fitted, it'd be much appreciated. Forgot to take any when I did mine. Incidentally, if you use threaded bar to do it, try and get hardened stuff. Mild steel seems to strip pretty easy on that job I found.

To sum up, despite claims to the contrary, yes they can be reversed if you have, or know someone with the skills required to do the job. In production left and right are identical apart from the strengthening piece inside. I need hardly point out that they should NOT be reversed without strengthening or they may well implode. Either do the job right or hunt for a better arm.

Yeah il get some pics when pressing the bush in. Spoke to an engineer mate of mine about making one of these:

May try just using the threaded bar first though and obviously grease.

You can do it with thick washers and big sockets too.

Cheers. Am I right with 12mm rod and probably 2.5 times the length of a bush?

12mm sounds right to me. Remember when you pull bush through (I mean curse it for hours), you need to take it slightly further than you'd think to allow it to spring back into place.

Got the arm painted in Hammerite, got most of the inside done too. Can't decide if I should paint it same as the van body or play safe with black. Just got to wait for the bushes etc to arrive now and also hoping my mate can snaffle a threaded bar from his work to assist with the bush insertion. Jon.

Here is the plastic seat the spring sits on. Anyone reckon this is past it?
Also, what is the purpose of the pig tail swirl in the trailing arm when it will be covered by the repair section once welded in place? If that makes sense?
Thanks, Jon.