Club 80-90 Forums

R0B wrote:But you are hijacking the thread.

Hi - Not trying to hijack the thread!

Doh, naughty person, should've started another, avoids confusion, but just this once, eh,

DuaneEddy wrote:I have not tried or to be honest checked the Low Level Sensor - (If Fitted )

It will be fitted, unless the muppet that fitted the wrong cap has bunged up the hole in the tank (right by the cap).

DuaneEddy wrote:Do- Or Should I still retain the flashing led facility for low water level? As per WIKI

Yes

DuaneEddy wrote:If So Where can the 42-43 box of tricks be purchased from?

I take it your relay panel does not already have one then ?
Best place to get one is a "wanted" on here or there are 12 on ebay right now (HERE - and - HERE)

DuaneEddy wrote:And Also Is the Conventional Rad Cap A Norm?

Certainly NOT ! - Read up here on how the cooling system works, top up tank and all that. In theory your van should have been blowing water out of the cap when hot and needing topping up, unless you have been running the left hand plastic tank permanently too low (it should be full to the brim )

Has yours still got it's "top up tank" behind the number plate flap ? If it has then just fit a correct cap (from brickwerks, NOT JK or GSF) and connect it to the top up tank with a bit of tubing, anything suitable will do, it's not under pressure.




@Rob, sorry about the big gaps in the text

There isn't a smilie for "slap on the wrist" - point taken about confusion boys/ gals
It was all done in the best popular taste!

Back to the matter in hand - yes What2d there are only 11 42/43 relays left on on ebay right now

@Duane,

NOt only are you confusing the issue but you're mixing me up with Ghost (I never mentioned anything about there being anything on fleabay) - where will it all end?????

There you go = confusion

Duane has twigged as to why mixing more than one person asking Q's on a thread causes confusion, so he sensibly contacted me via pm = Duane, see your pm's now

Turns out that the dalek cap needs to be 'man' tight or water gets past it. Relief. New one is now fitted and this had to be 'mighty man' tight before I could stop any moisture from appearing from it.

@ ghost, inadvertantly drove 300 hundred miles with the sensor disconnected and nothing out of the ordinary occurred, no flashing lights or constant lights - zilch. Any ideas? Cheers.

what2d wrote:Turns out that the dalek cap needs to be 'man' tight or water gets past it. Relief. New one is now fitted and this had to be 'mighty man' tight before I could stop any moisture from appearing from it.

@ ghost, inadvertantly drove 300 hundred miles with the sensor disconnected and nothing out of the ordinary occurred, no flashing lights or constant lights - zilch. Any ideas? Cheers.

Hiya - Mine does exactly the same - I have the red flashing lights (rapidly flashing- self test) and then goes out when the engine starts.
If I touch the temp sensor to ground the gauge goes full deflection to the right and the light starts to flash
Disconnecting the sensor on the bottle has no effect
I was going to substitute / change out the 42/43 relay mentioned in the above posts by ghost - they are readily available of ebay

I think that this will be the line that is recommended that you take also - A simple substitution.

You could possibly borrow a known good one off a fellow T25'er Or Get one from the local scrap yard

I'm going to see my T25 man on wednesady for some bits, I'll try and borrow the mentioned relay and see how things go from there. Haven't yet removed the sensor but will do the same as you in the morning as well as measuring the small current that ought to be passing through it. Fingers crossed. Mitch.

what2d wrote:I'm going to see my T25 man on wednesady for some bits, I'll try and borrow the mentioned relay and see how things go from there.

That is a good plan.

what2d wrote:Haven't yet removed the sensor but will do the same as you in the morning as well as measuring the small current that ought to be passing through it. Fingers crossed. Mitch.

That is less of a good plan.

If you read the wiki about this, you will see that our angeloeves (sp) is a bit of a guru on this and points out that there is no real current flowing that you can easily measure. That control box 42 or 43 sends brief pulses to one of the probes and if the other probe does not receive the pulse (because it is out of the water) then it triggers the LED. iirc he says you can see it on a scope but not on a simple test meter. No led when probe disconnected but works when turning on indicates a duff 42 or 43 (they are interchangeable). If borrowing one, test it on the donor van first. Pull the plug off the sensor with the engine running, wait, sometimes it seems to take a good minute or so before the light starts to flash. It will not stop flashing, even after yo re-connect the plug, until the engine has been turned off then on again.

wiki on all this here = https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... ht_on_dash

@ghost, thanks again for your input, a session with a multimeter sounds as though I'd have ended up with more confusion or wrongly diagnosing the problem. Cheers, Mitch.