Club 80-90 Forums

I'm with Ian.....whilst it can be messy I wouldn't call it a major job.
Just take care to buy a decent quality CV bolt tool (whatever size bolt heads you have) and make sure the tool is inserted all the way into each bolt head before any pressure is applied (most rounding off of the drive is because the tool isn't inserted all the way and or, not held squarely when pressure is applied).

You need to be a little 'bold' when wielding the hammer...and accurate so as not to miss, damaging the cage or splines...a vice does help.
Repack with CV grease.

Martin

Not trying to open a can of worms,

but I believe that if the drive shaft moves up and down with the wheel then it is technically part of the suspension and a damaged CV would certainly alter the way the suspension operates.

NicBeeee wrote:but I believe that if the drive shaft moves up and down with the wheel then it is technically part of the suspension

I can't picture a setup where a driveshaft DIDN't move with the wheel. Some setups, though, do use the driveshaft as a stressed member, taking actual suspension forces.

The simple question is whether the suspension would work any differently without the driveshaft fitted. Ours wouldn't. It's purely the arm and spring which take all the load.

I agree that this seems to be a grey area, I guess I am coming from the angle that the CV joint allows the wheels to drive whilst allowing the suspension to do its job, if for instance we were to swap our lovely drive shafts with a pair of solid splinned bars the suspension would be hindered, (just before they shatter something). Guess the question is wether enabling something to do its job, turns it in to a part of the same machinery. I could remove my office light switch and turn my light on by touching the wires together, but by using a light switch the switch becomes part of the circuitry and makes my life easier.

NicBeeee wrote: I agree that this seems to be a grey area,

There is NO grey area, if your MOT tester says it's a fail it IS a fail plain and simple. And besides surely you wouldn't want to be driving round with a known defect which can lead to wear and ultimately a potentially unpleasant (or even dangerous depending where it fails) mechanical breakdown further down the track for the sake of an hour's work and £15 plus a bit of carriage.

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... gory_id=80

and to do it properly for next time ..

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... gory_id=80

The CV boot kits from GSF are fine too btw

Ian

Personally I wouldn't ignore a split whether fail or not. The grit, salt and everything else will get in there and eventually kill the joint. When they go, they can sometimes go with quite a bang and it'll be sods law that it'll happen just as you pull away at the lights with a lorry bearing down on you.

The MOT, even though progressively tougher is still only a rough guide to a vehicle being roadworthy. Much as I hate doing CV joints (earhole full of grease etc) I'm far more inclined to deal with a split joint as it arises than let it fester. I'd see it as a fortuitous warning before matters got worse. Rotten time of year to be doing one though.