Club 80-90 Forums

mickeyflyn wrote:guys i`ve done everything correctly .in my younger days i could easily strip and rebuild an escort cross flow engine or a . . pinto and worked as a mechanic for a while . . .

Sounds like you'll soon have it sorted then

So you haven't done anything else apart from fit new plugs and fit new leads? Where did you buy the leads from and what brand are they? Sorry if that's a daft question, I'm just searching for a bit more info based on my personal (i.e. novice) experience of owning a rusty old van!

Tony

Nicola&Tony wrote: I'm just searching for a bit more info based on my personal (i.e. novice) experience of owning a rusty old van!

Tony

Damned right too Tony.

I would be going back to the last 'known good' set up to see if the 'new' problem disappears ... you should never assume that a new part is 100% good, but you'll know that as an experienced mechanic. And yes spark plugs are pre-gapped ... usually too wide for the T25 at .80mm I gap our's (on lpg) at .635mm or 25thou in old money.

Ian

I had a problem after changing the plugs last year,
Plugs bought from halfwits, gaped correctly and installed OK.
Engine ran fine, but occasional stalling when cold,
i lived with this for about 6 months, then changed the plugs again as a demonstration to some of the students at school.
Stalling cured.
I changed the plugs back one at a time till I found one plug that caused the fault to recur, I examined the plug carefully, but couldnt see any flaws.
Binned it, and learned never to believe new parts are perfect.
T

not vw...but mate has a motorbike that wouldn't fire.

had recently changed the single plug. Had run after the change, then stopped.

Investigated carb, electrics, worried that it was electrical in the control unit somewhere etc etc.

I suggested putting a different plug in....had another bike with identical plug...changed it....fired up and ran.

Put the "new plug back in"....no firing

As above, plug looked absolutely fine

Em
xx

ok here are some photos of my distributorhttp://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e241/mickeyflyn/IMG_0257.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and engine,if anyone can spot anything wrong all the better.
can anyone tell me why there is a short pipe coming from what looks like to me to be the vacume advance unit which appears to have a screw in the end of it ?
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e241/ ... G_0256.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e241/ ... G_0262.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e241/ ... G_0258.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e241/ ... G_0258.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The dizzy is from either an aircold or a 2.1i and it has the extra port blanked off (this is often done on 2.1 DJ engines running a 1.9DG carb and is perfectly acceptable).

There should be an advance/retard vacuum pipe from the air filter box to the back of the carb and then another from the back of the carb to the front face of the dizzy. If the advance/retard pipework is off/not sealed and working you would struggle to tickover.

Ian.

thanks ian i will check that tomorrow .the engine is a df 1.9 and runs well normally .

mickey

mickeyflyn wrote:thanks ian i will check that tomorrow .the engine is a df 1.9 and runs well normally .

mickey

Yep, I saw that, I can only really comment on the DG/Pierburg combination but that's what they have.

ok guys just to let you all know for future reference ,i`ve solved the problem with the help and input from you all .

it was the vacuum pipe which had a split in it which was not visible until removed

thanks for all the input.

mickey