Club 80-90 Forums

gonna say I too use splined bit hammered in, but the irwins are good, and when all else in life fails then out with the gas axe (delicatley)
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Irwins will get most stuff undone, ive had a set for prob 10 yrs and they have got me out the "pooh" many times, even locking wheel nuts (when the key is missing) i wouldnt be without a set now

Thanks for all your answers! I managed to get them off with a chisel, mole grips and alot of elbow grease and gorilla grip!

Only problem is one of the shafts wont come apart. Taken clip off end and tried hammering shaft through with a FBH to no avail. even tried bearing puller plus heating it. Still nowt. THe boots hold fluid inside so im hoping there okay. Re-grease tomorrow and hopefully re assemble for the wknd and install the re-conditioned carb from Bromyard.

Bugger me in skint this week.

Thanks again one and all!

Too late to say this now, but I hope you had a drift or something (brass drift is best) between the end of the shaft and the "FBH", or it'll never come off, ever.

Rule one of hammers; never hit with a hammer anything you wish to keep.

They do come off if you hit them enough, eventually, don't forget to remove the circlip!

i hit vans with a hammer all the time
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metalmick8y wrote:i hit vans with a hammer all the time
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Yes but you're a professional hammer wielder.

You'll need to get shaft nipped up in a big bench vice and use (as suggested) a short length of strong metal tube along shaft so it rests against centre of stubborn joint then clout the +$7*£" out of it with a a cold chisel until it moves. If you're careful you can also shift joint with a blunt chisel on its own but a drift preferred to avoid too much damage. The vice essential though I'd say.

Glad the chisel on bolt heads worked. Has for me many times in 25 years.