Club 80-90 Forums

can anyone tell me what the bearing that goes here is called??

(arrow should be a little more to the right to the small hole in the centre)




and does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove "allen bolts" when the head has rounded?


thanks

its a spigot bearing you need, brickwerks sell them for a few quid, easy to fit and you must fit one lol

Thank you, as you can tell I'm new to all this tinkering lark... But if I don't do it myself, I'll never learn...


Another question, how hard is it to set the timing, as I'll replace the timing belt, and can it be done with the engine out or does it need to be in situ??

Thanks again

Isolly wrote:Thank you, as you can tell I'm new to all this tinkering lark... But if I don't do it myself, I'll never learn...


Another question, how hard is it to set the timing, as I'll replace the timing belt, and can it be done with the engine out or does it need to be in situ??

Thanks again

Not a problem glad to be able to help mate, also when you order the spigot bearing get a set of flywheel bolts, just aswell replace them, the cambelt is easier to change when the engine is out of the car, to do it properly you will need the locking kit, this locks the camshaft and fuel pump, as you wont have the flywheel or gearbox pointer i would use a paint mark from the crank sprocket to the block, so that way you can tell its in the same place, not ideal but tbh the easeist way to change it

Hello,

just to add to Phil's helpful comments - you should get a counterholding tool too or you'll risk cracking the cam. This means you can do up the cam pulley bolt and counterhold the pulley itself without putting all the stress on the cam slot.

Best way to get out rounded allen bolts is to hammer in a 12 point spline bit one bigger - usually they're 6mm allen bolts, so hammer in an 8mm 12 point spline and you should be able to crack it then.

Good luck with the swap

Ewen

can anybody tell me what this pipe is?



and where could i pick up another.. more flexible version and a bit longer?


Thanks

Hello,

that's your EGR pipe - Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Those pipes come in slightly different sizes. If I were you I'd blank it off - it only serves to clog up your inlet manifold really - it was put there for emissions reasons, but if you blank it you won't have a problem with the MOT or anything. It's possible to use VCDS to make it pretty much ignore the EGR so you don't get any error codes too.

I have one of those pipes in the cupboard - I'll take a picture and post it up in a bit next to a ruler, but I'd consider blank off plates - just look up "EGR blank off" or something like that and you'll get lots of results.

Ewen

by blanking it off, would i then not need the valve that it goes to? so i could get rid of that be completely??

Hello,

good question - you wouldn't need to use the pipes - they could be free, but you need to keep the electrical connector connected as the ECU shows up an annoying fault if you leave it disconnected. It's possible to take the junior timer connector that goes to it and bridge it with a resistor fooling the ECU - you'd have to measure the resistance of yours.

Here's the EGR I have - you're welcome to this if you want it:



Hope it's going well

Ewen

now thats really thrown me... as i dont recall an electrical connector on mine..

i'll have another look tonight whern i finish work.. i'm guessing a couple of blanking plates will be easy enough to knock up?

Hello again,

the valve is called the N18 valve or EGR valve. It's really easy to knock up the blanking plates - one at either end of where that pipe goes. Use the gaskets too - part number: 038131547A.

The wires from the ECU to that connector are a brown wire with a white trace, and a black with yellow which is the common +12v to all the components. The brown with white trace goes to pin 25 on the ECU connector. It should be connected or you will get error codes.

You can get the blank off plates and gasket here in fact:

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?p ... t&Itemid=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hope that helps

Ewen

cool.. thanks for that

just followed your link and ordered some blanking plates now..

my sis, been to pick up new sprigot bearing and bolts so clutch can go back on tonight.. (hope she got the right ones)

and 4 stubborn allen bolts ot remove then pretty much ready to re-fit the engine.. yey



thanks everyone for all your help and knowledge

Hello again,

you were wondering about timing: here's a good how to about changing the cam belt:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a3b4 ... nstall.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for timing - this is done mechanically- you undo bolts through the IP pulley a little bit and one at the back underneath the injection lines. Then the pump will rotate slightly - pushing it towards the block advances the timing - the other way retards it. Once it's set undo the injection lines a little bit and retighten to allow them to rotate a bit and not put strain on them. Timing is then checked when warm in vcds - fairly simple really but give me a shout if you want to know how to check it.

Ewen

can someone tell me if a special tool is required to remove the niut in the centre of this? or will a socket head do the trick?



it looks like this

You need a 12 point socket that will do the trick mate