Club 80-90 Forums

Hi Bus, Im in Newport just down the road, but my Aircooled got much the same problems so I cant offer much help sorry. Could take you to a few nice pubs though lol. Hope you get sorted mate

Haha, cheers Steve, got a wedding to go to tho

Well after a brew I fired her up she missed a couple of times as we pulled away and then she was fine and did the final 25 miles well! So I'm going to try and get home on Sunday and then get some parts ordered

this may sound stupid but have you checked the tension on the aux belt ?

The problems I had on a Pierburg 2E3 (albeit on a Vauxhall Cavalier circa 1987) were as follows: -

1) dirty / corroded lead connectors.
Corrosion would inhibit some voltage, and so give a weak spark, but a hot engine bay worsened this to the point that the spark was too weak to ignite the fuel.
It also used to make my rotor burn out after a while, with severe pitting on the contact surfaces.

2) an ageing ignition amplifier can begin to fail when it gets too warm - also are the connectors all clean and secure?

3) Fuel vapourisation in a warm / hot engine bay can play havoc with fueling.
Especially if the fuel lines are very close to the heat of the engine.

4) Also did I read somewhere that battery voltage can be an issue on a hot bus, due to the length of the battery leads.?

Just a few experiences that may be relevant.

[quote="busengineer"]Well I'm sat in a lay by in the middle of Wales and its started playing up again!!!

I'm 25miles from my destination so I'm letting it cool and then il try again.

So I'm going to say its not fuel!! Or air leak as surely it would have done it before now, I'm stabbing in the dark and saying ignition coil or module breaking down. What are people's opinions because I need answers?

Yeah Ignition module

I have just found this on an American site... does this sound like your issue?

Technical Information
Group: 28
Number: 90-01
Date: March 31, 1990
Subject: Vehicle does not start, ignition miss
Model(s): Vanagon, from 1986 Model Year

If the engine does not start or in case of ignition related engine miss,
check the ignition coil for bitumen leakage. Bitumen leakage may be
caused by overheating of the ignition coil which may occur when the
engine runs for a prolonged period of time at idle.

Replace the standard grey labeled ignition coil with green labeled coil
Part No. 211 905 115 D. The green labeled coil was installed into
production as of 1/89. VIN: 25HG 06 5838.
*****************************************************************
* CAUTION *
* Part numbers are for reference only. Always check with your *
* Parts Department for latest information. *
****************************************************************
Website is here
http://www.vanagonparts.com/tech_bulletins.html#000" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hi,

I had exactly the same problem with mine, was the fuel pump on its way out made worse by the push rod being too short. The pump was just about strong enough to deliver fuel when the engine was revving hard, but struggled to deliver on tickover or lower revs. Never worked out why it temporarliy 'fixed' itself when it cooled down, which lead me to spend ages poking around the electrics.

If you do replace the fuel pump and rod avoid GSF like the plague as the rod they sold me was shorter than the one I took out, and their pump lasted less than 200 miles before it broke. Brickwerks sold me a good pump and Heritage a good push rod and pedestal.

Good luck getting it fixed!

I had a similar problem but it turned out to be a loose ht/plug on the coil????? If that makes sense lol

Update time

Fitted a new coil and ignition amp yesterday (excellent service from Brickwerks as always ) and cleaned up the earths below the coil, went for a bit of a drive and seems to drive a bit better. No hesitation when asking for more throttle etc, so quite pleased so far. Only time will tell i suppose

Interestingly when i emailed Brickwerks with part numbers they had no record of the old coil ever being fitted to a T25/T3

HI FELLA, JUST HAD THE SELF SAME THING HAPPEN TO ME ON WAY BACK FROM BATTLESBRIDGE. AA CALLED AND THEY SAID ITS THE ANTI DEISEL VALVE ? appaerently it lets air in if it plays up and causes the engine to run lean and miss fire and run like a ? well you know. only just got in but cant find where I can get a replacement. its the unit below the air box in the front with a lead coming off it. This apparently opens when you turn the engine off to stop it running on. When thy play up the dont shut off properly and allow air in the carb.

I think it properly called an Anti-dieseling solenoid. Or in our case the idle speed cutoff solenoid
if it fails it closes and does not allow the engine to idle
I don't think it's possible for it to jam open

yer thanks. thats what I meant lol. but thats what the AA man said lol. I guess I will have to go through the same procedure, strip the carb, check the jets. all the fun at the fair.So would it be fair to say that I need to change both on mine aswell then the coil and the amp ?. It does say that a tell tail sign is back firing but it only started firing today , but I have always had the lapse in throttle response since I purchase it back in march, and the previous onwer said it some time stalled when cold ?

I think the AA man, like most rescue mechanics, clutch at straws when faced with a flat four engine.

guitarman482 wrote: but I have always had the lapse in throttle response since I purchase it back in march, and the previous onwer said it some time stalled when cold ?

...could be a transfer jet or accelerator pump issue.
Engine off, take off the pancake duct, open the flap, get someone to press the acc and observe what happens.

you should see a good squirt of fuel appear, and be directed down the venturi.

Also air could be getting in from your various hoses and gaskets, or from the choke pull down.

Cheers Kev, will give that a try and looksee.