Club 80-90 Forums

maybe i could get a new one for a manual and fix 2 outlets to it for the auto box cooler ( well i think thats what the extra outlets are for ) ?

jeffdub wrote:maybe i could get a new one for a manual and fix 2 outlets to it for the auto box cooler ( well i think thats what the extra outlets are for ) ?

jeff they are all obsolete for early systems...

seen one on vw heritage kev
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Ble ... try_GB.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

out of stock

now this is available.. can you see how they made this

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details. ... parent_id=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

looks like i may have to bite the bullet and order one of those

or make it

i take it the two bigger pipes are in no way connected?
if not, could you use http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/silico ... ieces.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thats a good shout lloydy one has to have 2 outlets on ,one for the inlet and one outlet to the auto box if you know what i mean ?

Let's just go back to the first post.

jeffdub wrote:the rad was hot at the bottom but cool at the top and it took ages to get hot water from the bleed nipple

If the rad's hot at the bottom and cold at the top, then the rad's gotta be blocked. That's why turning on the heater's helping - because you're adding in a second radiator, effectively. The 'stat must be opening, else the bottom wouldn't be getting hot.

Flushing & reverse-flushing might help, but it's probably time to replace it.

this is getting expensive , new rad , heater matrix and a bleed valve that no one makes lol got no chance of getting to newquay in a few weeks

forgot my brother in law is a steel maker and welder he's sure he can make a replacement for me he's coming round to have a look