Club 80-90 Forums

I see a few mention the resistor, does a motor come with one, or do the two have to be purchased seperately?

As it's a bit of a job I don't fancy doing it twice, so in other words do I buy the two or are they all one unit, and if seperate where is the resister located and how's it changed?

The resistor and blower motor were separate in my 1990 1.6td.
I replaced the motor and seem to remember the resistor was also inside the housing. I'm sure someone will be able to give you a definitive answer, although you may be better off starting a new thread as this one is pretty old.

Tim

You will need to replace the old resistor with these.http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... -pair.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or have complete control (any speed you desire) for under £4:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-DC1 ... 2ed90035b7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Definately the cheaper option.

CovKid wrote:Or have complete control (any speed you desire) for under £4:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-DC1 ... 2ed90035b7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Take note of this useful bit of information in the Ebay blurb for that :- "The maximum current up to 20A radiator or heat required to increase the fan"
Other than that good find there CovKid

There are some 30 and 40 amp ones around too John although they're twice the size. Someone might like to play with one though.

Or, for a new dimesion on life, mega slow windscreen wipers

Wasn't referring to Amperage Ralph, was laughing at the nonsense created no doubt by an online translator from the Chinese :- "The maximum current up to 20A radiator or heat required to increase the fan"

Best are here I think: http://www.boredpanda.com/funny-chinese ... ion-fails/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Nother good find, loving this one, talk about laughed out loud (lol)



Ang on,

Time to update this one I think, with respect to a more modern way of controlling the blower - ie dumping the dinosaur resistors and high-speed relay altogether and using a dedicated motor speed controller instead. Both Ghost and I have mentioned this a few times in recent months, and I've been asked to explain in more detail how to wire it up, so I think a video demo is finally in order. Since this is a project that several seem interested in, I'll put it in the WIKI too.

So why change to a dedicated controller? Well, apart from it being more efficient and more controllable, its actually cheaper than, or no more than replacing damaged resistors and if you're planning on replacing the fan, thats an ideal time to consider upgrading the control circuit too. On a stock system that is working fine, its best to leave things as they are unless you're pedantic. That said, resistors get hot (and can melt nearby plastics) and it wastes a lot of power.

This evening I wired the new controller to a brand new blower motor on my bench and I was really impressed! Boy does it go. Unfortunately I don't have the lights needed to video indoors this evening but I'll do that tomorrow, including how to determine the correct polarity for a new blower motor which isn't that apparent.



Conclusion? Really nice - total, smooth control of motor from virtually nothing, to flat out.

Personally, I think this beats using the 'notchy' stock resistors that set blower speed, particularly when you consider its around half the price of new resistors and gives infinite control. My controller has a click-off function on the control knob (pot) and this is confirmed by an LED on the edge of the circuit board. I'm inclined to extend that LED so it can be seen on the fan control facia or alter the stock wiring so the blower is ignition dependent. The existing fan switch will be gutted out and the new knob fitted in the same place.

Its important that you get one with the control knob on flyleads as that makes it so much easier to fit, but otherwise its a doddle

There are a few around with displays but can't see any point in that - its just a blower after all. I'll say one thing though, that blower motor puts out way more air than any 240v desk fan I've ever bought. Heres a simple explanation of PWM and why you might want it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lf7JJAAZxEU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Would be very interested in a video or guidance on this, still need to bite the bullet and get my dash off and replace my blower motor with a switch upgrade, sounds good

Video done. Editing now....

Its not a complete beginning to end fit, but should explain enough for anyone to install one. Controller needs to be a minimum of 20amps and have the control knob on a flylead.

There ya go. Should work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;