Club 80-90 Forums

100 pages

bum!

just updating my progress, grinding stone chips back to bare metal, then red oxide priming, you weren't wrong when you said that most of the time is spent on prep! 20+ years of stone chips to sort out. it's going well though. the primer goes on a bit thick but will sand flat pretty easily. looking forward to sanding it all flat and smooth

Yeah, smooth is vital. Incidentally Rustoleum make a coating you can use on bare metal, its Combi-primer anti-corrosion 3369/3380 - might be useful to someone.

Heres some useful pointers on combicolor drying times (the official ones):

At 20 centigrade: Dry to touch in two hours, ready to handle after eight hours, and a subsequent coat can be applied after 16 hours. Full hardness is achieved after 7 days.

At 10 centigrade: Dry to touch in three hours, ready to handle after 16 hours, and a subsequent coat can be applied after 24 hours. Full hardness is achieved after 14 days.

At 30 centigrade: Dry to touch in one and a half hours, ready to handle after six hours, and a subsequent coat can be applied after 8 hours. Full hardness is achieved after 5 days.

Mind you. if flatting back, personally I'd leave longer than the suggested hardening time. I still think 3 weeks is about right.

rattybird wrote:what is the paint code for the ivory please ?

The paint code is: RAL 1015

avant-garde wrote:

rattybird wrote:what is the paint code for the ivory please ?

The paint code is: RAL 1015

cheers me dears

I have noticed people are having problems with rustoleum drying onto seam sealer...anyone used this seam sealer?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... _779wt_905" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

started to grind out the rust on my seams with one of those small wire brush drill attachments (which worked v well) and treated with vactan....now worried that the rustoleum isn't going to cure when I come to apply it in a few weeks!

I must admit I didn't have this prob as I used body filler, the isopon aluminium based one which is fairly flexible. I used the same stuff around the windscreen lip to smooth out the welding repairs I'd done, In other cases, it was wholly vactan.

Oh ok, is that P38 Isopon? I've used that on the rest of the van to get rid of the imperfections before painting, but wasn't sure whether or not to use it on the seams or not....the rust isn't bad at all on the seams which makes a change!

I've ordered the seam sealer now, but now you've said about the filler i'm tempted just to get on with it tomorow to prevent any further rusting as its going to be a few weeks not before I can do anything on the van

Thanks for the quick reply as well

Not exactly p38 but alongside it in a similar tin. Has tiny particles of ally in it which seems to stop any cracking but it still has enough give in it too. Lovely to sand I'll say that.

update on my seam sealer..brushed another coat over the sticky layer after 7 days , a further 2 days and its nice and dry and normal

CovKid wrote:Not exactly p38 but alongside it in a similar tin. Has tiny particles of ally in it which seems to stop any cracking but it still has enough give in it too. Lovely to sand I'll say that.

OK, I think now i've ordered the sealer i'll give that a go and post up results on here if its any good!

Seems to stick to Dinitrol polyurethane seam sealer OK

I used Dinitrol brushseal and I've just checked it today and the rustoleum has finally cured. Took a couple of weeks though.

Having scoured the pound shops for foam brushes without success, I found these on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0164461719" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
thought it might be of use.