Club 80-90 Forums

Thanks, may do that!

Hi all,

I have (well I should say we as my best mate is painting too) just painted half of the van and WOW is all I can say. Found it really easy and the finish is amazing just off one coat, so pleased!!!!

That said my masking is terrible! So I have managed to removed everything (windows included) except the handles and boot lock. Can anyone tell me how to removed these as I would rather have no masking. It is garaged so taking them out isn't an issue - any help would be really appreciated. And if anyone in interested in the total restoration process then you can see some of the pics on facebook - here is the public link http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1 ... aab845e19d" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks in advance,

Beckie

No need to ask same question twice though: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=75012" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks

And thought maybe I might have more luck in two places as they are relevant in both places - didn't expect an answer so quick so thanks!!

Hi guys,

I know there are lots of Q's and A's about paint thinning on this thread, and I understand it is quite dependent on temp etc....Has anyone painted their van at this time of year? If so, what percentage of thinners to paint did you use?

I've ordered mine today, and will hopefully after 3-4 days prep with my electric sander will be applying the first coat.

Thanks
Andy

Its on the DVD and in the WIKI. Please refer there for questions like this. There is no exact science to this. It should be the consistency of evaporated milk or slightly thinner. In higher temperatures you use even more thinners. The DVD in particular demonstrates the paint consistency and the entire process from start to finish on a T25 so if you don't have it, order a copy.

I've bought the dvd and watched that which was very helpful but i've still got a few questions and I wondered if someone could help? Sorry if they have been asked before.

With application, my approach has been to paint subsequent layers as and when. For instance if you're intent on getting a couple of layers on, as long as you work very fast and don't mess, you can get a second coat on the next day (paint being 'just' soft enough to let next layer bite on it) but normally I'll leave long gaps, sometimes a couple of months before I tackle it again. Sanding or flatting back can't be hurried though or you'll burn or disturb the paint.

I'm going to be using a matt colour and I think i'm right in saying that I shouldn't need to flatten back between coats so could I put 3 coats on in 3 days? I really want to get the paint done in full this year and with the weather and the fact I work fairly long hours I was thinking about taking a week off and hiring a unit and doing it all in one go hence the need for being able to do the 3 coats in 3 days, finding and hiring a unit isn't easy or cheap!

I'm also considering spraying the combi-colour (mainly due to the limited time scale) if I did it that way would I be able to put 2nd/3rd coats on quicker and would you still do 3 coats or more?

Matt or gloss, if any layer isn't smooth (ie its bumpy), you'll end up with a bumpy top coat. You may well need to flat if you want a final smooth coat. Matt is certainly more forgiving but much will depend on how well you apply each coat and/or get the mix right. Also, applying so many layers in one go will leave the paint very soft underneath and you may find it is easily marked for a month or two afterwards.

As a guide, I found that a minimum of 3 weeks (unless you can really heat it in a garage) is what it takes before you can even wet sand a layer with some safety, so bear that in mind.

just went out and had a look at the van ths avo to check on the paint. It's mostly dry, there are the odd areas with runs where it's still soft however, reckon i'm gonna make a start on sanding(avoiding the soft bits). Took the sander to one of the pannels on the front door and although I was supprised just how hard work it was it did flatten out and left on a surprising amount of white paint on it too. another weekend spent sanding for me then

If I manage to get it outside tomorrow I'll throw up some snaps. It seems to chuck it down here quite a lot and I aint got many windows in the van at the moment

If its hard work sanding, its too early. Thats my experience.

I have painted some more today and used 20 percent thinners and was fine. I know everywhere in this posting says not to over work the paint but I found that if the paint goes tacky then you re-roller with a fairly dry roller that the finish is extremely good and means the paint is very thin layer.

I know it's not the done thing but I found it really helped as I had loads of bubbles this time and in my opinion it was because my roller was too soaked in paint. it says it needs to be soaked or you get bubbles but I found the opposite happening.

finish is once again is excellent. just a suggestion, anyone else found this?

Yes, already covered. Its the equivalent of the dry brush method.

What do you mean by fairly dry roller? A fresh new unused one?

Cruz wrote:What do you mean by fairly dry roller? A fresh new unused one?

He means use the same one your applying the paint with but run it over the panel when it has got next to no paint on it. ie. just before you would put it in the tray to pick up some more.

The DVD covers bubbles (as do several posts in this thread) and the WIKI has a link to the dry brush method.