Club 80-90 Forums

Hello,

itchyfeet wrote: What concerns me is a crack in an Aircooled here would not leak coolant, so may not be an issue.
Paul

Nor any where else really.....

Seriously, as the crack is 'outside' the head.. it should make no difference..

I say run them as they are, and maybe build up a spare set for later..

Cordialement,

Thanks for the confidence John.
If I can't find a good spare head I will fit this but the weakness will nag at me so I'm still holding out a bit longer. I'm not against the clock which is nice.

I do however need to get on and refill tappets, next job.

Tappets while I'm waiting.

I'm reusing the tappets that come with the broken DJ, I would fit new but a few accounts of problems with new ( also they are a different design) I'm going to stick with the old ones, also it's a used cam so again better not to fit new tappets which may increase wear. Unfortunately I have no idea which tappet ran on which cam.

I already dismantled and cleaned them all when I got them because they were sprayed with water in the garage fire and I needed to stop any rust forming.
This is actually a spare tappet that I did to practise before doing the others because it's been a while, mostly in Haynes but here goes...

If they are partially drained the clip usually comes out easy, if they are brim full you may need to use a vice to compress to get the clip out ( see later pics)
Finger on the clip at all times unless you like crawling around on your hands and knees.

P1060434 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Something like a drill bit shaft will pull the socket out

P1060436 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

The plunger can be hard to get out, it is fighting vacuum in the chamber below but I find a large screwdriver does it well, you may need to press the ball valve down half way.

P1060437 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

remove spring and clean thoroughly

P1060440 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

fill to hole with fresh oil

P1060441 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

spring in

P1060442 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

plunger in and depress ball valve

P1060443 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

add socket, I off set the hole in the socket with the hole in body because that's how the Bentley manual shows it ( unless it's a bad drawing missing the hole in socket) I have no idea if it makes any difference?

P1060445 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Into a vice with hole facing up I have a button head M8 which I have filed the head down so the pushrod seat in the socket does not get damaged.

P1060446 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Tighten the vice until you can just get the clip in, finger on clip at all times

P1060455 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

store in oil
P1060456 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Yes my new tappets have now done 2000 miles and still when I leave the bus for more than 20 mins or so the ones under valve spring pressure drain down which means you always have a rattle on start up with a bit of uneven running. The converse is also true in that they pump up quickly within a mile from cold or a few hundred yards if it's only been a short stop and the oil is nice and warm. It can be a bit embarrassing when you have an audience drooling over your van and it starts like a bag of spanners!!!

123-jn wrote:Yes my new tappets have now done 2000 miles and still when I leave the bus for more than 20 mins or so the ones under valve spring pressure drain down which means you always have a rattle on start up with a bit of uneven running. The converse is also true in that they pump up quickly within a mile from cold or a few hundred yards if it's only been a short stop and the oil is nice and warm. It can be a bit embarrassing when you have an audience drooling over your van and it starts like a bag of spanners!!!

I could not bear that, they are the type that are featured in Ratwell I think. Andrew at campershack had some faulty ones too.
I wonder if you can still get the type above?
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

from here, just ordered some Hylomar AF
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 6&start=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

tencentlife wrote:I recommend using Hylomar on the fire rings, it is a non-hardening elastomer specifically designed for this type of high-temperature sealing requirement with differential rates of expansion between elements (Rolls Royce developed it for their large jet engines). It must be used according to instructions, applying it to one part, smearing that part against its mate to create a film on both parts, then the parts separated and the volatile vehicle allowed to gas off for a few minutes. Then the parts are assembled and brought to 1/2 to 3/4 of full torque, then wait 20-30 minutes for the elastomer to "creep" under pressure, and finally bringing the fasteners to full torque. This means both sides of the fire rings must be coated and smeared to the heads and cylinder tops. The head capnuts can be first assembled dry, then after all have been brought to final torque, taken off one by one and retorqued with sealant. Hylomar can also be used under the capnuts, which will allow retorquing if ever necessary without the need to drain coolant, remove the nuts and apply new sealant, since the Hylomar never hardens. There are several variants of Hylomar, get the Advanced Formula ("Hylomar AF") for its superior workability, or the Universal Blue spray if you are willing to mask your parts carefully . There is a special solvent available as well, "184", which makes clean-up easy, although I believe acetone can also be used. Hylomar products are easily found on eBay or Amazon.

Finished all 8 tappets today

P1060457 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Next up some small jobs to do while I wait for a head, still hopeful.

Head nuts tapped out with a dry M10 tap, no cutting fluid you want threads dry or when you torque them they will be tighter for the same toque.

P1060458 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

wet and dry on the sealing surfaces to remove any dirt.

P1060459 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Rags to stop any contamination then wire brush head stud threads

P1060460 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

wind nuts on to ensure they all run on freely

P1060461 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Oil pump next
This pump is just 3000 miles old and was fitted last summer in an attempt to improve oil pressure ( it didn't), it's being reused.
The cover plate was new too but I didn't take the paint off which was a mistake, so it's removed with wet and dry, paraffin on a flat surface.

P1060463 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060465 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

the Elring pump to cover gasket is about 0.27mm thick, so I purchased a gen VW gasket from Brickwerks at 0.17mm thick.
I have made them from 0.07mm paper before but i want to try a standard VW gasket this time.

P1060462 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I trying Curil T also this time on the gaskets ( a thin smear) , l have used yellow head nut sealant before and that works,
I have used Dirko HT on the nuts before but it looks messy.

P1060470 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

let them dry for 10 minutes, washers were coated both sides too and hung on studs to dry, then assemble.

P1060472 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I don't see where you checked the oil pump gear endplay.

If the actual gear endplay is anything over .004", you will have excessive fluid "slip" when hot and this is the #1 reason for low oil pressure and nuisance OP warnings.

Your cover gasket is .0067", so if your pump's gear end clearance in the pump body was zero, you will have ~.0067" endplay; that's already too much. Chances are the actual gear end clearance in the pump body was more like .003-.004, most are something like that out of the box, and if so you would install the cover sans gasket. Otherwise the existing endplay is added to your gasket thickness for endplay of over .010"; this engine will have miserable OP when hot.

Every pump must have the gear end clearance in the pump body checked first, then whatever is needed done to end up with not more than .004" endplay to the cover. 2 or 3 thou is even better, because due the aluminum pump body expanding at twice the rate as the steel gears, clearance will only increase with temperature.

That means you may have to alter the gear length, face off the pump body, and choose whether to use a gasket or not in order to end up with the target clearance.

The book shows how to check with a straightedge and feeler gauges. The Bentley book we get over here even shows no pump cover gasket in their exploded views, but decide based on what you have, not some abstraction in a book or what someone else told you they did. With no gasket, you just apply sealant outside the suction return groove in the face of the pump body, a minimal amount so it won't squeeze out and block the groove. Final compressed sealant thickness doesn't need to be accounted for, it is effectively zero.

At last somebody to challenge me

you are right I should practise what I preach and not assume new or newish parts are OK

whipped the cover off and between 0.05mm and 0.10mm so in spec.

Never thought of fitting the cover without gasket, great idea, will do that with Curil T outside the groove.


P1060473 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060474 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

there is a VW gasket 111115131B listed on VW parts diagrams and so I think the endfloat measurement is without taking gasket into account, having said that no gasket has to be better.
Bentley shows no gasket you are right but they also don't mention any sealant which is surely needed.

http://www.realoem.me/Volkswagen/RDW/T2 ... /115/10005" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/gasket-t3- ... nuine.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thanks for you input, keep it coming

So the end float is between .05mm and .10mm?

0.10mm max (Bentley) 0.1mm (Haynes)
0.00mm min

I was saying mine is between 0.05 and 0.1mm

Interestingly my Bentley says.1mm max
On your post with pictures of the pump you've got .05mm and .01mm ( it confused me a bit,it doesn't take much!!)

dave friday wrote: On your post with pictures of the pump you've got .05mm and .01mm

The 0 is not before the 1 on the picture, it's after.
.05 and .10

You are right Bentley is 0.10 was looking at Diesel page by accident
edited above so as not to confuse.

itchyfeet wrote: whipped the cover off and between 0.05mm and 0.01mm so in spec.