Club 80-90 Forums

I was taught years ago that derv is the best lube for honing - never tried brake fluid. I'm gonna try it on an old barrel.

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ajsimmo wrote:I was taught years ago that derv is the best lube for honing - never tried brake fluid. I'm gonna try it on an old barrel.

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I'm interested to know what you think of brake fluid, I have paraffin also suggested by SilverB but no derv to hand?

any other tips gratefully received
like for example how far do you go? I'm assuming the unworn top part has to be honed off to reach the worn area created by the top ring?

P1040848 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Did the compression test on the replacement engine today

Hot engine, throttle open, plugs all out, 10 turns

12.75 bar
13.25 bar
11.75 bar
12.50 bar

Bentley says 10bar to 13bar , 8 bar minimum so looks good

Bentley doesn't specify variation between cylinders.

Awesome compression.
I'd be well pleased with those figures.
Couple that with a healthy spark and a good mixture, means a clean burn with power.

I'm happy
In my experience alot of low compression is valves.
My origional WBX went from 8 to 9 bar to 11 to 12 bar by having the heads removed and valves ground.

It may not be reccomended but I use a battery drill on my valve stems to grind the seats, oil the stems and guides, slow rotation, forwards and reverse, silly rubber suckers on sticks never worked for me

Got a closed loop lpg system and air fuel guage showing stoich so happy to thrash it knowing it's not lean

70 mph easy today, up near 80 at times.

Just read in the WV workshop manual for DJ engines 11 to 14 bar compression 8 minimum and 3 bar max difference between cylinders.

Anydody got a copy of the DG VW workshop manual to see what the max difference is?

p 15-11
http://syncrosport.com/info/manual/VW_T ... hanics.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It's 10-13 bar new, Wear limit 8
max difference 3

Thanks
so DG could be 8 to 11 bar and still within limits
seems a huge percentage difference.

Thought I'd better check the new Cam I got from VWH for run out, just because it's new does not mean it's not bent.

Luckily I have access to an old lathe at work, not sure how you would do this at home.
just lightly clamped onto the bearing with a post it note to stop any damage because I only have one dead centre and it's tapered anyway.

It's within limits of 0.04mm

P1040881 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

itchyfeet wrote:Thanks
so DG could be 8 to 11 bar and still within limits
seems a huge percentage difference.

no comment required from me!

what2do wrote:

itchyfeet wrote:Thanks
so DG could be 8 to 11 bar and still within limits
seems a huge percentage difference.

no comment required from me!

There is no specification for oil peeing from your spark plugs though, time to face facts 8 bar is a minimum and yours is there.

P1040855 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1040856 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

A set of 0-100mm Moore and Wright Micrometers and a set of budget telescopic bore gauges turned up today
No point rebuilding an engine by guesswork.
Just need a ring compressor and I think I have all the tools I need.( I think I have a puller for the crank gear but still need to check it fits)

P1040885 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I noticed the pulley was bent on the engine I fitted last week, shame I spent some time cleaning it up and painting it
Somebody posted a wanted ad recently saying bent pulleys kill aux belts so I thought I better change it for the one on the old engine that I know is good.

Easy job in the van but you really need a cut down socket or the tin heat shield is in the way, even cut down my 1/2" ratchet won't fit. I got this one turned down at work but you can take a hacksaw to one, shiny sockets are usually are softer than matt sockets so easier to cut.


P1040888 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

lock flywheel
P1040892 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Great stuff Paul - 80mph as well, you sure you haven't fitted a turbo

It's only a tin top with an MDF bed and fridge, not got the 100kg boat on the roof most have or the 100kg kitchen or the water tank +++