Club 80-90 Forums

Your description makes more sense, given that one stated aim of the DJ's oil cooler is apparently to speed up the warm-up. It clearly couldn't do this if water only circulates when the thermostat is open - it would be no better than without the cooler.

And it wasn't even the difficulty of getting a pressurised feed that put me off (since I hadn't understood that bit ) - it was just the thought of cutting into the rarer and more expensive cooling hoses.

When the idea to build a 2.1 started forming in my head, I originally thought I might take the opportunity to switch to the later cooling system at the same time, particularly following CovKid's scary story with his thermostat. But having accumulated a stock of good spare early cooling bits I quite like the idea of keeping it more original.

CJH wrote: keeping it more original.

actually on second thoughts the return to the thermo housing is between open and closed thermostat valve positions so circulates cold and hot in the same way (bypassing the rad when hot) to presumably get better flow, anyway enough back to your thread....

Can anyone advise how to get the old stretch bolts out? They won't tap out out - they're in there tight. I could put the whole lot in a vice so the jaws push on the end of both bolts and the back of the bearing cap, but I'm worried that will distort the bearing cap. And I don't know where I could safely grip with a vice in order to give them a whack.

CJH wrote:Can anyone advise how to get the old stretch bolts out? They won't tap out out - they're in there tight. I could put the whole lot in a vice so the jaws push on the end of both bolts and the back of the bearing cap, but I'm worried that will distort the bearing cap. And I don't know where I could safely grip with a vice in order to give them a whack.

Fasten them back up then using a flat drift or old, blunt screw driver, 'persuade' the cap towards it's mate, rather than trying to tap out the bolt. Hope that makes sense as it doesn't when I read it back

Tap the cap on the flat by the bolt head, not on the radius section - I know that you knew that, just pointing out the obvious!

As you don't care about the bolt I would clamp the bolt in the vice and see if you can loosen the cap with a drift on the cap around the bolt head.

Thanks - I think you're both saying the same thing. Trouble is there's almost no 'meat' around the bolt head to get a drift onto.

Could you carefully grind part of the head away so that you can get a drift on to the cap? As you look at the pic, the left hand side of the bolt head would grind away easy enough, I think.

Despite what I've suggested, there must be a proper method. Mail Mario at MV, see what he has to say on the subject.

CJH
Bentley shows pushing them out by putting in in a vice exactly as you described

Also shows installing new back by using a tube over the bolt against the mating surface and driving it in with a press
if you don't have bentley I will lend you mine for the duration of the rebuild, pc copy is not the same as hard copy

itchyfeet wrote:CJH
Bentley shows pushing them out by putting in in a vice exactly as you described

Ahem - didn't think to look in Bentley

I do have a copy, thanks, so I'll double check in there in case we're both picturing something different from my description.

Yep - this is what I pictured. It must be ok then.

CJH wrote: Ahem - didn't think to look in Bentley
.

I'm just as bad, I spend hours working it out for myself only to remember I have a workshop manual

itchyfeet wrote:

CJH wrote: Ahem - didn't think to look in Bentley
.

I'm just as bad, I spend hours working it out for myself only to remember I have a workshop manual

..yep, I too am guilty of that.