Club 80-90 Forums

wrong assumption
it will weep a bit
relax take the switch out ...relax...then screw in the new adapter.
wipe the oil away.

I jacked mine up on the left rear... seemed to help access and oil spill

Epiphone wrote:So ive got myself this and will spend some lovely days over the Easter period fitting it.

An afternoon's faffage maybe, but not days for that job?!

Hey, Ive only gone and left the gauge at home. If I hook up a metre to sender and earth, im getting a reading. Can this be tranlated into the pressure?

You mean a meter, surely, not a metre

Can this be tranlated into the pressure?

Ans: Yes, but you'd need to know the algorithm, which may not be linear, so it can, but you probably can't...

torchy wrote:Although this is a general technical question I suspect syncro owners will have more experience than 2Wd owners.

Basically I am fed up of braking down and being towed back by the RAC...three time in the last 5 times out.

I've had overheating problems and now twice the oil pressure warning light and buzzer is coming on (1600TD).

So I want to fit gauges, for oil pressure and temp and water temp to start with.

Can any one give any recommendations? there is a whole range out there, I'm told 52mm is the most versitile but.....

Electric or capilliary? any prefference.

Look forwrad to comments too keep my RAC subscription down!

Should you not get to the problem of the overheating first? Gauges will just let you know you are just about to break down

BTW I still couldnt find enough room to work with a spanner down there.

Even a ring spanner is too thick to get in between the sender and the engine, its so tight.

I ended up cutting the end of the sender so that a socket would fit over it, which is thinner.

But when fitting the extension pipe I realised I couldnt do that, so I removed the wheel of the water pump which gives a lot of space then. I would recommend that.

finally found my gauges and hooked up the oil press gauge. But didn't quite get the results I expected.

Can someone tell me what the pressure should be at:
tick over cold
tick over warm
approx 2000 cold
approx 2000 warm

Its a 3 point gauge, does it work like this:
with + (live) and - (ground) connected the gauge goes to max
with the sender (itself with G on it) is connected to S then this should level out the gauge?

I just checked my receipts and they are both 5 bar sender and gauge. Is it printed on them somewhere?

I get over 50 psi cold tickover
and 18 psi warm

at 2000 rpm cold is 60 psi
when warm it's 30

this is from memory

Yes 2 bar at 2,000, 3 at 3,000 and 4 at 4,000 etc. That's fairly hot, and over 100C will strat to noticeably drop.

Make sure as much of the 12 volts on your gauges as possible, check with lights on, and other services

Found this:

G60 flywheel: stage 1: 22 ft-lbs. stage 2: 44 ft-lbs. final stage: additional 1/4 turn (90o turn)

Gives a clue, def two stages, and def. medium strength loctite

The gauge is showing the following:

when warm
1000 revs = 3.5 Bar
2000 revs = approx 4 Bar
3000 revs = aprrox 5 bar and above

before starting the engine shows just over 4 bar

starting the engine and when cold
goes straight to the end of the gauge = over 5 bar

after 30 seconds of running then stopping
just below 5 bar


But I've only got a 5 bar sender and gauge and sometimes I'm going above 5 bar out of the reading area on the gauge?

This can't be correct can it?

It seems to be reacting correctly with acceleration/decerlation etc, just starting off too high on the scale?

Yes, it can... readings when cold can be all sorts of values, depending on how cold. But all said, we're talking new oil and new filter and hopefully unrestrictive oil cooler system if applies

If you're getting about 1 bar per 1000 rpm when hot, then that's a good rule of thumb I think

Been following this with interest so that I can make a sensible arrangement for my new 2.1 DJ that's slowly progressing. I have now been able to pick up a 0 - 150 degrees C oil temp guage and a 0 - 10bar oil pressure guage with corresponding double pole sender (markings on the hex show that the low OP idiot light will come on at 0.3 bar which seems right from what is written above).

For oil pressure the plan is to run a braided line from between the push rods between cylinders 3 & 4 up to the top of the engine then use a T piece to fit the VDO sender (thus providing info for the OP guage and low OP idiot light) and the high OP sender which will be relocated from its original position by the water pump pulley. (Actually looking much like axeman's set up on page 4 of this thread.)

This will then leave the oil temp sender to go where the high OP sender was originally and in a good flow of moving oil. I just need to find a sender of the right length to get into the flow without impeding it. The plan is to use a M10 x 1 sender and fit it into the reducer that the high OP sender would fit into. Do people think this would get far enough into the flow of oil? http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6159 ... _info.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Or would it be better remove the reducer and just use an M16 x 1.5 sender (although I can't see that Merlin does one that size - which might give me that answer )

Any thoughts on this set up gratefully received - especially whether or not I have interpreted all the info abve correctly for a WBX.

Thanks,

Pete

Hi, so if my readings are so high and off the 5bar scale, its not giving me anything useful. Should I buy a 10bar sender and gauge?

Epiphone wrote:Hi, so if my readings are so high and off the 5bar scale, its not giving me anything useful. Should I buy a 10bar sender and gauge?

i think that there is something wrong, as from memory a healthy wbw oil pressure should be 2 bar @ 2000rpm at normal operating temp (ie oil temp around 90'c).i will have a look in the bentley to comfirm this if needed. one question is te gauge matched to the sender?

neil