Club 80-90 Forums

Ahhh OK, I did wonder as I just bought a new set of rods with small end bushes already fitted, all I did on mine was check when fitting the pins to make sure they didn't bind or were too loose, used assembly lube on them as well when fitting with the pistons.

Stesaw wrote: ↑24 Oct 2022, 21:11 Ahhh OK, I did wonder as I just bought a new set of rods with small end bushes already fitted, all I did on mine was check when fitting the pins to make sure they didn't bind or were too loose, used assembly lube on them as well when fitting with the pistons.

So l may have wasted £6.99 on a honing tool?

Did you hone the barrels? On my last top end rebuild l took some oiled wet and dry to the walls and did it by hand.... ala two stroke style.

I had the barrels honed by a local machine shop, the same one that butchered my case and studs.
I dunno if you've wasted money stu as you could still hone the barrels with it, but you don't need to go crazy with the honing.

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 09:14 I had the barrels honed by a local machine shop, the same one that butchered my case and studs.
I dunno if you've wasted money stu as you could still hone the barrels with it, but you don't need to go crazy with the honing.

It's only a smaller version for conrod top end bushes. Not big enough for barrels.

I'm not prepared to give over the barrels to those puppets at TEC. So may well buy a larger version honing tool and give it a go myself....l keep reading about breaking the shoulder at the top of of each barrel? The dark area about 1cm in depth.

As a whippersnapper apprentice aged 16, I had the honour of honing sleeve ejectors.... They were very hard stealy stuff, the grit doesn't get embedded in it and lapp the mating parts.... If you hone soft bronzy stuff like small end bearings.....

Anyone else used Delapena stones?

NB,
They weren't bell-mouthed and fitted to a few tenths of a gnats "cock" for assembly

Spose you and your mates don't care for the advice, but I hope it may be of use to others

maxstu wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 19:12

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 09:14 I had the barrels honed by a local machine shop, the same one that butchered my case and studs.
I dunno if you've wasted money stu as you could still hone the barrels with it, but you don't need to go crazy with the honing.

It's only a smaller version for conrod top end bushes. Not big enough for barrels.

I'm not prepared to give over the barrels to those puppets at TEC. So may well buy a larger version honing tool and give it a go myself....l keep reading about breaking the shoulder at the top of of each barrel? The dark area about 1cm in depth.

Ah yeah makes sense. If the small end bushes are all ready I doubt you'd have to do anything with them. But if they are unfinished then I guess you'll need to do something.. but what that entails other than having im not sure.

Small end bushes from Brickwerks are semi-finished.

l've ordered two sets (£8 a set, so not exactly breaking the bank) and going to do a test run on a spare conrod first.

Press them in then ream them to size. Has to be exactly square to the bush, so very difficult to do by hand. I don't attempt it even though I keep them on the shelf and have an adjustable reamer, I just buy new rods.

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Ah! Brickwerks selling semi finished bushes does not mean press fitting and just honing then?

Over the last few days I've watched a few video clips showing how to fit conrod bushes. Only one showed drilling oil holes and reaming using an adjustable tool on a lathe. All the other clips were simply press fitted aligning oil holes and finish with honing.

New rods on the horizon......

Cheque book! Where art thou?

Hi Stuart.

When this is complete, do you think you could give a rough breakdown of costs?
Not so that we can all gasp in horror , merely to ensure I ( when I get there ) walk into it with eyes open.

I've often looked at most of the cost being in labour for rebuilds, but maybe that assumption wasn't too accurate.

With my build without new heads £2052.72

Smiffo wrote: ↑27 Oct 2022, 16:13 Hi Stuart.

When this is complete, do you think you could give a rough breakdown of costs?
Not so that we can all gasp in horror , merely to ensure I ( when I get there ) walk into it with eyes open.

I've often looked at most of the cost being in labour for rebuilds, but maybe that assumption wasn't too accurate.

Let me say right now. How long is a piece of string? I know that is not very helpful to you, Steve. But how deep do you want to go? I'm in over a grand at present. Will make a tally up on finish. But l did buy two recon heads, with new valves etc, for 400 quid.

Any proper rebuild take hours of work. But the pro's have the tools and the know how. Whereas, today, for instance, l introduced myself to the world of helicoils and spent an afternoon famnying about.

The sump plug was weak so decided to do a drill out, tap and insert a helicoil. Three hours' work for me...two of those hours filled with dread and uncertainty! Likely 15 mins for a pro.

I bought an appropriate kit from eBay, which included the correct size drill bit, insert and tang breaking tools, a correct size tap plus ten helicoils. Being a dimwit l didn't ask for a reduced shank drill bit. So the supplied bit, 14.3mm or 9/16", didn't fit any of my drills. A short drive to a local Goodwin's tool shop gave me a blacksmith's drill bit with reduced shank. So l have just saved you 8 quid! See what l mean.

The story in photo's

Block strapped to table. An old gudgeon pin used as a guide...stuck in position using blue tack.



Drilling out old thread, using an old gudgeon pin as a guide.



New shiny hole.



Getting the tap as true as possible. Mostly by eye, and using a plastic ruler to view horizontal and vertical right angles.



And through we go. Note small box to collect swarf cuttings. Silly really.



Wrong, wrong, wrong! The instructions were best useless. No mention of adjusting collar on insert tool to help keep light pressure on base of helicoil. So that's what the allen key is for!

The kit.



Fourth attempt coming up.



Cutting the helicoil to correct depth before fourth insert attempt.



Hoorah!



The internal side. The helicoil has jump a couple of threads. Easily remedied with a turn to tighten coil and pull back.



Tang knocked off .....sitting lower in case



Success. Beer time!

You're a braver madman than I to be re-drilling your case
Good job Stu

More cleaning to get rid of all that swarf

Oooof...

I would have been sweating if faced with that - well done.
I'm looking at your photos wondering if I really have the space and tools to make it a realistic endeavour ( if I were to find I needed to go over an above. )

Maybe I need to think about that first and foremost. i.e. where would I realistically do this, how long would it take etc etc.

Fortunately I don't 'need' to do this now, but a little voice keeps nagging me that one day it will present itself as imminent 

Thank you, mon amis!

The eagle eyed viewers amongst you will note the last three photos are not chronologically correct. The second to last photo is from a previous attempt.

The same thing happened on final attempt But by then l realised it can be remedied by tightening coil and pulling back on itself instead of removing and starting with a new insert.