Club 80-90 Forums

I reckon it's shallow enough to hone out.
If the ring gap with new rings is well in spec after honing i'll stick with it. if it's out of spec or a bit close I'll reconsidder.

BW order just gone in, some bits out of stock at the mo so more to follow.
I'll update this as I go along.

1st BW order-
Big End Bearing Set - £14.30
Clutch Kit - £120.28, Shop around, you can get em cheaper.
Camshaft Bearing Set - £23.66
Flywheel bolt set - £7.80
Main bearings 0.00 From 07-1985 [std] - £49.58
Thrust Washers From 07-1985 - £12.10
Coolant pipe long- o/s
Coolant Pipe short- £22.20
Joining piece - £3.72
Fuel pump Spacer - £2.76
Oil pump - £33.00
Exhaust Stud - x 4 £3.76
Exhaust stud- 4 more o/s
Oil Filter - £6.30
Sticker Set - Fading VW- £10.00
Subtotal (Incl.Tax) £311.88
Shipping & Handling £36.32
Discount -£12.99
Total so far. £332.61


Stud set from VWH- £180 delivered
Gasket set- allready got. £107
Piston ring set- allready got £50
Oil £17
coolant £26
Push rod tubes X 2 from Paul. free.
Barrel x1 from 300CE. free.
silencer clamps x2 from Taj. £20
Con rod bolts x 8. £38 from VWH
thermostat housing+cover from e-bay, £30
speedisleeve- e-bay- £20
sealants £30.
honing tool £35


2nd BW order-
Spigot bearing £5
0.40 mm shim.£4
coolant pipe long. £52
coolant flange, rh head. £14.40
Fuel pump push rod. £3
Exhaust studs x 4 more £4
shim retainer. £4
coolant pipe,rubber, RH head to distribution. £20
Another oil filter for after flushing. £6.30


Engine bearer from Multisi. good as new, £85. £35 of that was postage from Jersey to Skye.
coolant pipe,stainless, + o ring and bolts. £100 from JK
hatch seal £20 B+B components.
Plastic bleed rail. £45 from David.
Bits for copper bleed rail. £20

Total so far- £1291. + bit's I've forgotten.
The small stuff really adds up.
Over £150 of this was postage.





The Mrs has admitted she'll never ride her scooter again so has told me to sell it to fund the re-build. Mixed feelings about that but it is the practical solution.

Sachs clutch kit 90 quid at carparts4less with this weekends discount code, free delivery.

itchyfeet wrote: it looks like the last turn of the helicoil is sitting in the counterbore and not in the thread.

937carrera wrote: the second and subsequent threads looks smaller than the lead thread.

Some of the holes have been helicoiled M12 and then M10 helicoils put inside the M12 ones.
Sorted now though, the M12 ones can stay in and all the M10's are out clean.

I seemed to remember you have to do something with the Schadek pump, found this https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8095960

So you might need a plate / gasket - Itchy ?

Have you got your club membership set up at BW - discount should be higher than that, but the clutch off suggested above is still cheaper

Are you leaving the DOPS system alone, or getting a switch / timesert to take it back to standard ?

bigbadbob76 wrote:
Some of the holes have been helicoiled M12 and then M10 helicoils put inside the M12 ones.
Sorted now though, the M12 ones can stay in and all the M10's are out clean.

Well that's "innovative" engineering

If an M12 helicoil is in then the hole has already been drilled out to M14 so an M12 Timesert should slip straight in. Probably a better engineering solution, but your call entirely

Yes, very erm.... inovative. I'll leave the M12 helicoils in rather than risk damaging the original threads.

I just looked at my flywheel and I'm going to need to speedisleeve it, so that can go on the list.
link here if anyone else needs it-
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... e#p8214711
Yes, I have BW discount set up. The discount shown does seem a bit less than I thought. hmmm...
Thanks for the link about the oil pump, in particular-

"Febi Bilstein. Standard Replacement Pump. The delivery measure of this pump was only 'just' adiquate and gave rise to the sporadik inturuptions of the buzzer from doom when the oil was hot & the engine running at 2,500 rpm."

If this is what I have fitted then that explains my low oil pressure. The scoring on mine wouldn't help either as even with good clearance oil would get through the scores.

Re: DOPS- I've checked the oilways and the liquid metal isn't protruding into them but I don't like it. will probably remove it and plug the hole properly.

I've thought of something you need.

I had to whip the gearbox out on my AutoSleeper when I bought it because it was creaky, and on a Polo that was sticky after a recent clutch change. It's a lot of work for a £4 part that isn't in a clutch kit



https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/guide-slee ... 3-all.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers. Do they wear badly? I replaced the seal that sits behind it when i put my recon gearbox in but didn't replace the tube.

I'm taking a break from the van for a few days as we're going away. That'll give you both a rest too. [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] i'll be back with more questions next week. [WINKING FACE]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've only got my poor experience to go on, replacing it on my AutoSleeper got rid of a squeaky clutch pedal I had noticed on test drive.

Enjoy your break, you've done well to get this far in a week.

itchyfeet wrote:your existing 0.4 shim may not be 0.4 any more either.

unfortunately messers Bodgit and Scarper Esq have struck again.
I don't have a large diameter 0.4mm shim fitted, so I guess you're quite right there Paul.
All I have are 0.36, 0.30 and 0.30, all the same diameter.

I'm back at it after a few days away, I've pulled the valves, they're pretty sooty on the back of the valves which suggests leaky valve stems to me although one of the Itchylinks suggests this could be due to the broken ring, time to read up on measuring valve play in the stems.

bigbadbob76 wrote:
I'm back at it after a few days away, I've pulled the valves, they're pretty sooty on the back of the valves which suggests leaky valve stems to me although one of the Itchylinks suggests this could be due to the broken ring, time to read up on measuring valve play in the stems.

I have seen alot worse, I'd say if your engine overheated and died I'd expect them to be sooted up, there is no major build up.

Your piston ring may have broken when it over heated.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8164980" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks Paul.
I spent today cleaning and checking the heads.
The soot cleaned off nicely and I gave the valves a quick grind while I was in there, all good.
Valve guides are all well in spec with the worst one being 0.6mm by your method in the link.
So I'm happy not to be pulling valve guides.
The most time consuming job in this whole re-build is cleaning, cleaning, cleaning.

I got the remains of the exhaust studs out cleanly and also this coolant spigot, this looks like being the major point of coolant loss that caused the failure.
It could do with being replaced.





The water seal surface of the heads are very pitted, someone's filled the pits with what looks like body filler so I'll have to pick that out and re-do it with Belzona, if it's good enough for filling pitted surfaces on deep sea seals at work it'll be good enough for the heads.



From the pushrod tube thread Pual, you said- "I have been binning stock tubes there seems to be no demand."
I have 6 good stainless ones and 2 rusty non stainless ones so I think I'll stick with standard/stainless tubes.
If you happen to have a couple kicking about please quote me a price as BW are out of stock.

My Honing tool arrived today so tomorrows job is to see if I can hone out the scratch on barrel 3.
E D I T- scratch that, thanks to 300CE's kind offer of a barrel I'll replace the scored one.

Ooooh. Pressies.

yeh no worries I have some std push rod tubes PM me your address BBB

ps I can't see those images