Club 80-90 Forums

The fill point is at the front, but the subaru cooler has a redundant cap on it as well, my filler is next to the heater intake below the windscreen but getting the water to circulate takes a bit of faffing about on level ground.

Pump is not at the lowest point either! but it's close.

Despite all this it does work ok.

On the Karmann gipsy forum there is a neat upgrade to the cooler where the filler is 'remote' on a hose as mike says above . Fills system from height. Air out. Shuts valve, hose stored. On the gipsy there is loads of room behind that massive fibreglass bumper.

metalmick8y wrote:thinking about it, maybe not as it would be easier to fill the system initially with the engine bay filler
mm

thinking a bit more, i think it would be best to connect by the pump. i think if the header tank pipe was run to the filler location it would have a dip\low point in it, making filling hard.
When you remove that rear light, you will see a pipe that can have a T cut in and go straight up the pillar

http://www.karmann-coachbuilts.com/technical/tdimod.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

max and caddy wrote:The fill point is at the front, but the subaru cooler has a redundant cap on it as well, my filler is next to the heater intake below the windscreen but getting the water to circulate takes a bit of faffing about on level ground.

Pump is not at the lowest point either! but it's close.

Despite all this it does work ok.

Mine works fine too, its just a pain to fill, and when you would ideally want to go back to it a week or so later to remove the last bits of air, you can't.. as when you take the cap off you lose loads of water!

Should the pump not be the lowest thing in the system? Mines on the chassis but I would be happy tomove it somewhere less obvious and dryer.

jes*b wrote:http://www.karmann-coachbuilts.com/technical/tdimod.htm

spot on jes, thats my/mikes plan, but leaving the tank up high

max and caddy wrote:Should the pump not be the lowest thing in the system? Mines on the chassis but I would be happy tomove it somewhere less obvious and dryer.

i think its meant to be in theory, in practice you just dont want it to be the highest point and run dry, they also don't self prime... mine is fitted behind rear light and is higher than i would have mounted it myself (its at about 3/4 of the system level), but it works...

Hmmm...maybe I will move my pump...I guess I could fit a remote tank like the gipo has on his and stick it up high to fill up....but if there was a leak there is no sight gauge of any kind...and I like to be certain there is some water in there after my Busfest leak.

could you not just leave the header tank high up in the engine bay? Another option could be to fit some sort of level sensor in that tapping on the rad

I think the top of the engine bay is lower than the top of the rad though...will check.

Some progress today...block is bored...felt sorry for it so gave it a hot soapy bath...

And bearings arrived...sputter bearings in the rod and normal in the cap...expensive!

And pistons fitted to rods selectively with pins to get the best possible balance..piston on the left has had a bit of metal removed as it was overweight..


And main bearings in and crank fitted....plastigauge shows oil clearance at 0.05/6 so well within the limit of 0.17.

What is it about shiny engine parts?...... I feel so happy looking at them
The waterways in the block look really clean as we'll don't they, can't see much rust at all.
Out of interest, what is the difference between sputter bearings and non sputter bearings? I have seen the afn has them and the ahu doesn't. Is it just a harder material or something?
Pistons look soooo nice, be a shame to fit them

The sputtering is a process that results in harder, tougher bearing...only downside is it can't embed small abrasive particles like a normal lead/tin bearing does, so they are only used in the rod (not the cap) as that's where the load is imparted into the crank pin...the AHU / 1Z use the same shell top and bottom and at a push so could the AFN...but I know how you worry...

The mains are "normal" as they are much larger and don't need a sputter bearing...it's some mental plasma process but its expensive...£75 for the 8 big end shells..and only 4 are sputter ones..!

In theory the water ways should have no rust at all if the coolant did its job...they are good yes.

The waterways are a lot cleaner than other engines I've seen....
If it's all being rebuilt might as well fit the right stuff, helps me sleep at night..
Slightly off topic, but if I wanted to work out CC, is there some sort of equation?