Club 80-90 Forums

i did not realise that the pressure sender location was so critical, always learning

It's not, really. Well it isn't in most engines, I don't know what engine you're working with. There's basically two "zones" of pressure* before the oil reaches the bearings: after the oil pump but before the filter, and after the filter but before the bearings. The difference, as I said, is the pressure drop across the filter media/bypass valve. The drop can be substantial while the oil is cold, one of the reasons there is a bypass valve built in, but once warm the measured drop is only 2-3 psi. Not enough to be concerned with, if your view of gauges is like my own that they are relative, not absolute, indicators.

*[I'm excluding Type 1 Aircooled VW engines, which use a single valve to act as both a pressure relief and as a diverter to the oil cooler circuit, based on the lowering viscosity with increasing temp. These will show greater differences in pressures in the different circuits, but even so, the differences are not large. And of course those engines don't have a full-flow filter, so the filter pressure drop is also not involved]

tencentlife wrote:You might like this one too then:


Has the steel hardline, too, the hose is just dress-up.

yes definetly, a simple monoblock, where to get one made though?

Back to page 7, I'm onto it but like a headless chicken this week and next...

torchy wrote:yes definetly, a simple monoblock, where to get one made though?

Directly under a drill press.

can anyone recommend an online shop to buy the hose/pipe from the engine to the junction/oil pressure sensor?

Think Automotive, Isleworth (just inside the LEZ)

Webshop, mail order etc and very helpful.

Send me a pm with your contact info

Neil

this is what you need hose (bradded) and the fittings, the straight cuppling (mail thread) is fitted in between the pushrod tubes and the second fitting (the elbow) can be used for the mounting the sender too (female fitting), the sender has a male thread.


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let me know if it is needed it has been in a draw in the garage for a year or so.


neil

axeman wrote:this is what you need hose (bradded) and the fittings, the straight cuppling (mail thread) is fitted in between the pushrod tubes and the second fitting (the elbow) can be used for the mounting the sender too (female fitting), the sender has a male thread.

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let me know if it is needed it has been in a draw in the garage for a year or so.


neil

If no one else wants it I'll have it off you for definate. All towards my 2.1 rebuild and maximising its longevity!

Thanks.

Pete

Hi, asked a question to thinkauto.com

Do you require two M10 male or female threads either end and also do you
know their seating, convex or concave?

I'm assuming 2 male then but what about the seating?

Thanks, Rich

sorry i sold the pipe and fittings, but if you contact think auto the hose and fittings need to be these.

m10 X 1.0 male fitting. this goes in to the engine block between the push rod tubes

hose choose your lenth depending on the location where you want to mount your sender.

m10 X 1.0 female fitting which the sender fits in to. but you will have to by the a sender with this thread. all the senders have a male thread.

if you want to keep the BOD you will also need a t peice to mount the sender and a oil pressure switch.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspor ... re-t-piece" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

any more question just ask.

see this solution

http://www.busschmiede.de/shop/Adapterb ... nsor-VDO_1

am I right in thinking, u can install the gauge in replace of or with (T-piece) the high/low or low/low pressure. That does matter?

moved post to my thread

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 7#p7733437

So ive got myself this and will spend some lovely days over the Easter period fitting it.


On quick silly question, as soon as I remove the high rev-low pressure sender, Im assuming the oil will start to flow out as its quite low on the engine?

So can get away with doing it in double time?