Club 80-90 Forums

Question why block the oil cooler because the engine is fitted to a autobox ?

Is it blocked or is it in hot engine position?.. The back edge of the flap, in the fan housing catches some of the air flow and forces it through the oil cooler while most runs over the engine. I think old autos put more load on the engine at tick over (when in drive, foot on break) meaning it is more important to make sure the only cooling fluid (oil) is kept cool when sitting at the lights...
Or am I talking rubbish John?

Hello,

Here is this weekends update..

Continuing with preparing the tinware..

Fit sticky insulation foam as shown in the top tins.. to make things airtight..



Note the use of duct tape to block unwanted holes..

Trial fit the silencer, check that you have got the support brackets right.. nothing should force..

This side has a bolt hidden at the back of the turbine casing..

I use a M6 socket cap and nut for the support to the heat exchanger as there is not much room with the top stud of the silencer..



Here is the other side..



Take the silencer off.. fettle the heat exchanger outlets so that the 'crazy' tubes enter well.. use the front tinware to give you an idea where the tubes go..

Loose fit the tubes..( cant do it after..)..

Apply the mastic , fit and fix the silencer, tighten all the exhaust and heat exchanger nuts... then do it again..

I fit the turbine now.. with the spacer, and the timing mark (on the rear rim of the pulley) tippexed and repeated on the front edge..





So that is all the tinware on and tightened up..



Before moving the engine to the starting stand.. I fit the oil filter (full of oil please).. fill the oil cooler..and the oil pressure switch..



and the sump..

With the engine on the starting stand..We can now look at the twin solex carbs..

These are very clean, and have none of the bits missing.. or crumbled away ( ).. that I usually see..

So I shall fit them as they are and see how well they perform..

Be careful with the inlet manifold gaskets.. there are several models in the gasket kit..

This is not for a CU..



This is..



Then I go for a trial fit of the air cleaner..



and do I have a piece missing. ...





Thats it for today... next we look at ignition...

To answer the questions.. yes I have put the one flap 'down' to deflect the air under hot running conditions, it won't make much difference..

these engines run pretty cool anyway.. airtight and clean.. with the mixture and timing right...

Cordialement,

Hi,
On the air box lid there are 3 breather tube intakes, front one for the crank case, right hand side from right hand carb and back left (as seen in your second to last photo) is it supposed to be connected to anything, mine isn't but that doesn't prove a great deal!!


Can’t wait for next installment , as you may have noticed I’m having ignition crisis today

Hello,

Well it has been quite a busy week end....

Bit of a cheat really.. All Saints Day... known also as Halloween.. is a bank holiday in France...

so a 3 day week end..

Friday.. mowed meadow.. (no dog)..went to friends barn (with pit) to prepare my van for gearchange overhaul..

Saturday .......prepared 'Ooops' engine stand.. modified to take larger engines..and a 'boom' to keep the cables out of the way..
.......Finished gear change linkage.. and pictures..refitted petrol tank..swept up.. took van home..

Sunday ........ Set up the carbs, timing and distributor..

Despite money having been spent on them.. the carbs are way out.. usual story.. throttle screws backed off doing nothing.. mixture wound up to get it to run.. air idle closed up to get it to tick over..

probably about 15 mpg

Rhs..



Lhs..



Petrol poured out of the diaphragm, on both sides..



The distributor is not much better...rusty..



The rotor arm is burnt out..



Still.. all in a day's work...

I am using a SVDA distributor instead of the Hall system...

so this is where we are this evening..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nqUWst2XRo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Loads of oil pressure over 3 bar at 2000 rpm..we are not going to get better than that.... no oil leaks...

Have to consult now for the way ahead..

As there is a bit of the standard airsystem missing. and there is no damper...

I propose an electronic SVDA.. and twin air filters.. get rid of all the black plastic..

and build up a nice cool running engine....

Have a nice evening...

Cordialement...

sarran1955 wrote:Loads of oil pressure over 3 bar at 2000 rpm..we are not going to get better than that.... no oil leaks...

That's what we wanted to hear! If the pressure's that good, you can probably go to a thinner oil and liberate a little more power.

Great to hear her running again John and I'm chuffed to bits that the oil pressure is right up there.

I'm well unhappy with the garage that did the carbs, fecking rip off merchants. Where do we go from here, I want to stick with the solex carbs and not go Weber or Empi but I've only seen the twin air filters with the EMPI replacements. I'm also a bit hesitant about the twin air filters because if I go that route I won't be able to get the van registered as an "historical" vehicle over here which could save me some tax and insurance. Let me know what you think John and we'll take it from there.

Hello,

Well I won my bet...

2 'clevers' bet me that the engine I'm on at work would start before 'Ooops'..

I finished all the pipe welding , fuel tanks and heat exchanger on Thursday..

'Oops' on Sunday..

We await the 'mecano' from John Deere...










We have just finished all the 2014 models for the Hanover trade fair..

Now if it had been held in Munich 81 Aircooled..we could have saved a few bob...

Regarding the original set up..

What I do for the French MOT (CT), is to present an engine with standard aircleaner and so on..

Then switch back for the rest of the time..

About 20 mins to change..

What is your current litres/100 km... or mpg...

I will strip one carb down this week, as I am not convinced, looking at the state of the top gasket and the colour of the brass bits, that much has been replaced.. just horribly badly tuned..

Like this..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qayyc9Z4E0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

then...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsfo5ATgBp0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just a bit of twiddling really....

Cordialement,

Some beasts you're building there John. There should definately be an agro trade fair in Munich, after all I'm surrounded by bloody fields just north of Munich so much so we actually have to drive into the City just to enjoy some trees and grass in a City park

That sounds like a good idea John re the air filters I'm up for that depending on cost etc. Fuel consumption wise it was running at 15 l / 100km so 19mpg more or less. Not good by any means but from what I gathered within the norm for an Autobox van. If that can be slighty improved on then great. Love those vids of yours, watched them about 10 times

Hello,

And a Happy New year to you all...

Well, here we are in the final furlongs...

The overhaul kit for the carbs arrived in December, and I have been running in the engine on the bench..

The current carb settings are waaaaay too rich..

and the tickover rpm is too high..( even for an automatic)

I suspect the last 'tinkerer' wound out the air/mixture screws to get the thing to run...

the throttle screws don't even touch the stops at tickover..

there is a punctured diaphragm on the rhs carb..fuel leak onto hot bits of motor

Starts ok. with the chokes working.. but they shut off far too quick.. and so the motor stalls..

Anyway.. just to remind you...

Here is the motor running..



with plenty of oil pressure..



Here is the rather nice 'Empi' overhaul kit.. thick gaskets and good quality diaphragms..



and some very clear, (though with Chinese 'typos') instructions..which would be of great help to a first timer..



Any way.. the rhs carb has been stripped..and a vacuum inlet machined in..pick that up tomorrow evening..

I do this to be able to use twin vacuum gauges..like this..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsfo5ATgBp0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

which is much more precise than the 'master and slave' method..

I hope to achieve a significant improvement in fuel consumption,, petrol being the price it is..

I'll be doing more video on this.. using (if I can set it up) my new HD video cam.. .. to be released on You tube..

Thats it for now..

Cordialement,

Hello,

Well here we are again.. with this Sunday's instalment...

Today I did the strip down and rebuild of both carbs...

Left (master) side first

I don't like the look of this mysterious blob.. but if it causes no leaks..



Looking down into the carb I can see the gasket in the throat.. not good..



Here it is with the top off



must have caused a good air leak.. remember the motor would not tick over below 1400 rpm..below that it just died..

Old and new gaskets..



Looking through to the main jet with the plug out..



Carb upside down now... throttle butterfly jammed shut.. there should be a clearence..set by the throttle stop screw..



The EMPI repair kit comes with this handy gauge (trim to fit)



But I use the 'Old school' gapping wire



Then we look at the 'basic idle mixture screw'.. with crumbly sealing washer..wound too far out.. and of course the 'tamper proof' plug is missing



A very tired and leaking pump diaphragm..



Now we look at the top part of the carb..

The vacuum diaphragm is inside here..



Here it is..



But to withdraw it you need to take the auto choke off..



The Empi replacement does not have the handy aligning notch..



The new float valve..



To remove this you will need a 14 mm thin walled socket..



The actuator arm locknuts were loose and way out of adjustment..



Here is the cold idle enrichment valve.. sealing washer missing..



Here is the (smaller) fuel cut off solenoid, new washer needed..



and here is the (larger)bypass cut off solenoid..washer missing..



Here is the bypass idle mixture screw..tired rubber sealing washer..



and here is the main idle adjusting screw.. broken off at the top.(but you can use a 7 mm socket).. wound too far in.. sealing washer perished..



another view..



This is where the basic idle mixture screw is situated..



and this is the pilot air jet (note the rectangular rubber washer..)..



There is a Bakelite spacer on the carb seating..should have 2 paper gaskets either side.. the kit kad only one per carb.. but I have these in stock..

note the red rubberised 'goop'....Carbs are ALWAYS DRY MOUNTED..



The gaskets in the right order (thick paper to the underside of the carb)..otherwise you get an air leak..

and are tempted by the tube of Goop..


Carb back on... now for the other side.. much easier..



Other carb.. loads of goop..



Remember the rectangular rubber washer for the hot idle valve.. it should not look like this..



Non original choke spring in this one..



There we are.. all put back together..and ready for tuning..but my starter battery was a bit low..

and its my tea time...

Cordialement,

Thanks for taking so much of your time to put together a wonderfully informative thread such as this is
Cheers
Andy

toolsntat wrote:Thanks for taking so much of your time to put together a wonderfully informative thread such as this is
Cheers
Andy

I concur, great work John

Thanks Sarran for this great thread, i have my 2.0cu in bits due to low compression and i am using this thread as my guide i am working on the barrels tonight and pulling the valves out for inspection on saterday. I will be putting new gaskets on all round can you please advise on where to put gasket sealer? sory but i have never done this before and want to get it right

Hello,

Please........

No gasket sealant...

Get a good quality gasket set, about £30 for the CU..

American is best,,

In there are the 4 thin aluminium decompression rings that go at the top of the barrels

and 4 paper rings that go at the bottom of the barrels.... grease these when you fit..

The photos should show what you need..

or..(ahem).. click my link below and look at .. your buggy engine in 20 hours..

video how to..

have fun, take your time..

work warm clean and SAFELY..

Aircooled bliss..

Cordialement..