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Snapped 5-speed lever? Here's how to repair it.

Posted: 09 Sep 2012, 11:03
by silverbullet
Disclaimers first: This is a techniquqe that I have used for several RHD 14mm gear levers. All were reasonably straight up until the time of fracture, if yours has swan-necked (knuckles into the radio etc) then you will have extra straightening to do before following this guide!

You will require: approx. 590mm or 23 1/4" of 8mm bright mild steel rod.
A welding plant with decent output (disposable bottle toys are not up to the task)
Angle grinder
Files/drill burrs
Large copper/hide mallet
Bench vice or 4"x2" timber offcut

OK here's the familiar scene:

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Mark the position of the collar grub-screw, so you can line up the two halves for welding. Grind/file the broken ends to a weld prep. of approx. 70 degrees included angle for best results. Remove all traces of plating from both the gear-knob end of the lever and inside the fork end/drilled hole with file/burrs.

Holding the upper part of the lever upside down in a vice or resting on a wood block, drive the steel rod down into the lever until flush with the end. It will follow the curve of the lever suprisingly easily if a whiff of grease is applied to the rod:

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Slide the lower half of the lever onto the rod and clamp. Alignment will be tricky due to metal stretching etc. but this can be dressed off post-weld:

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Tack in position once happy that it's as good as it can be - remember to line them up!

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Remove all traces of grease at top end and plug weld both ends:

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Return to the site of the fracture and fully weld:

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Dress welds smooth and re-dimple for the grub screw. Put it back in the van. Job done!

Re: Snapped 5-speed lever? Here's how to repair it.

Posted: 09 Sep 2012, 13:52
by Oldiebut goodie
That's the sort of job I would braze rather than weld - you have the advantage then of remaking the braze if you aren't satisfied with alignment etc. ( I think people forget that brazing can be better than the ubiquitous mig. :) )

Re: Snapped 5-speed lever? Here's how to repair it.

Posted: 09 Sep 2012, 15:56
by silverbullet
Not really my field of expertise, but the Zinc plating inside the tube ends isn't going to be your friend when brazing! Plus you've got to get the components hotter for longer, whereas MIG involves less heat soak to the workpiece (TIG is also bad for this) and the weld pool helps to fuse any stress cracks near the failure.
Brazing always reminds me of bad old car body repairs that come back to haunt later owners :wink: