Club 80-90 Forums

davidoft1 wrote: ↑15 Aug 2020, 11:59

maxstu wrote: ↑15 Aug 2020, 11:40 No. Im sure it locks out power to pump too, to prevent flooding heater box

There’s a fuse in the silver control box

Do you mean the ECU? Only silver control box l can find. Above heater box. Thats a sealed unit surely?
Regards
Stuart

Yes is have a small knob looking type thing on the bottom, that’s a replaceable fuse

Thats what l thought. Yesterday l disconnected one long and one short terminal at bottom and removed ECU from bulkhead.

Nothing as you suggest though. I was expecting a fuse holder there too. Least thats what internet shows.

Regards
Stuart

maxstu wrote: ↑15 Aug 2020, 13:12 Thats what l thought. Yesterday l disconnected one long and one short terminal at bottom and removed ECU from bulkhead.

Nothing as you suggest though. I was expecting a fuse holder there too. Least thats what internet shows.

Regards
Stuart

Got a picture of your control unit

Let me know if better quality required (likely)?
I need to empty transom locker

Moved on to depth transducer Simrad IS15.
Manual says l can check strength of signals by pressing a certain button for ten seconds. Did that and nothing comes up close to diagram.
Oh well!
Shaver light working though

All the manuals state that heaters should be run monthly. No one appears to RTFM!

First thing that I would be looking for on a marine installation is corrosion anywhere, thermostat/ecu/motor. Symptoms sound a bit like the motor brushes are worn out/stuck - if the resistance is incorrect start up will not happen, intermittent contact could be happening.
Regarding number of attempts - the heaters should make an attempt to start, if fail it should then make a second attempt on its own - this is where the number of attempts doubles. You do one start up the heater does two and so on. ( Some heaters have no lockout, some after 3 attempts and others 5 )

Don't listen to anyone who tells you to apply a constant 12v to pump, they don't know what they are talking about and will possibly burn your pump out for you.

Mocki has got the heater fuse at the wrong end - it should be at the power source end, possibly a fuse box in that set up as I would expect to see a hefty main cable to the instrument area.

Motor fuse should be in the ecu - if your ecu has one there should be a cap on the bottom and a diagram with the fuse rating printed on the face of the ecu. They don't all have a motor fuse.

Transducer quite often fails due to a nick in the cable sheath, water can fill the coaxial screen which then messes up the signal.