Club 80-90 Forums

I dont recommend the no-stat approach as the pump will have no back pressure to work against, so there will be very little coolant flow, if any. By all means remove it and test in boiling water, straight from kettle into a cup. It should open within 20 seconds after the second pour (the first is rarely enough), if not the stat is getting lazy and on the way out

Thanks for responses.

So I went through it all again yesterday, same thing.

No air out of either valve, all hoses hot to touch so assume its getting flow everywhere. Then go for drive and same issue, so I pulled back on drive and checked return hose it was cool again.. But I opened rad valve and loads of bubbles came out.

I didn't actually do the waterpump, my local garage did it as I thought I'd save some time. The thermostat was from euro car parts.. Probably not the best quality but it worked when tested.

I just decided to flush it as its just had service and waterpump so I though it would be sorted for a while if I put some fresh coolant in.

Ill do some investigation on the hoses for blockages.

I mean it is getting really hot.. It pushed a load of coolant into the expansion tank yesterday to the point where it overflowed.

Just a point to note, after the garage did the waterpump it ran absolutely fine.. As it always did. Its just since flushing.

Thanks.

Did you flush something through that’s got blocked somewhere ? 
I still think you have air in the system . 

is it a caravelle ? Have you got the rear heater ? If so is it bled? 

Yes, caravelle.. Its got the rear vents and the control. Never been able to get any air through them

Sorry, when I say I do.. Its got the air vents all along the headlining.

No separate heater I dont think.

Argh you mean the fresh air above the sliding door and opposite , but not the heater under the rear seat ? 

Engine needs a sniff test. My money is on a marginal head seal due to corrosion. Just about hangs on at idle but under load it is pressurising the coolant system. Thts why it overflows and get so hot...

I have been of that opinion for a while, and its exactly what the last bit of Simon Baxters guide says.......... but the return pipe being cool points to something else and we don't know if coolant types have been mixed.

Could still be something much simpler

Yeh that's the ones lol. No heater under rear seat.

I mean I hope that's not the case.. All was good before.

The coolant that was in was pink.. Wouldn't say its had mixed coolants.
Took it round the town today, couldn't really spend any time on it just wanted to have a quick look, got home and the rad was stone cold at the top.. Removed the bleed screw completely and no coolant at all..you could hear it coming through the rad then eventually it did flow out, cold at first then hot.

Nobody in the North east is there? Who wants to come and be baffled or show me I'm stupid.

I'm just gona keep driving around town tomorrow and take my 13mm with me.

I saw your location...... not far away.......I may have to go over to Catterick on Saturday.... may be able to have a look after that ?

Send me a PM

My money is on head seal too I'm afraid. I had a old pug 206 which ran fine but could ever bleed it properly for a good few months after I changed a leaking rad. Then head gasket went so I assume it was always on the way out.

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That's the hose that's getting full of air and going cold.

Just so we all on about the same hose.

I've gave up.. It can't just be air now.

Oh my picture hasn't uploaded.. Strange

Have you checked the bleed ring for blockages? Any air at the plastic junction tower (behind the bulkhead) should rise and return via the wee spigot and along the bleed ring to the pressure tank, not accumulate in the crossover/bypass hose. The usual blocker is LHS head to bleed rail t-piece, but all the small bore parts can block and cause lots of problems bleeding.

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Dickie89 wrote: ↑31 Jul 2020, 18:54 Oh my picture hasn't uploaded.. Strange

Have another go uploading your photo..... black square with an i in it