Club 80-90 Forums

Removed my WBX DG after nearly 10 years in the van

it's done 40,000 Miles by me and 50,000 miles by the previous owner since the last recon.
The oil pressure is low.
I have had this engine out twice before for head seals ( 2009) and for a cracked head ( 2013), this is the third time it's been in the shed


I put together another DG so I could keep the van going until this engine gets rebuilt.
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 93&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


some other rebuild threads, I will update these as I find new ones...

1.9 DG - Attempting a full rebuild...T25Convert
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=120790" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Edna's new MV build - wbx pervs only! silverbullet
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=99380" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

2.1 MV Rebuild DG case!!! 123-jn ( Actually a DJ build)
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=148330" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=153699" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Early 1.9 to 2.1 conversion - stop me if I'm being stupid! CJH
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 9#p7990928" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

PetenAli's WBX 2500 engine build. silverbullet
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=142235" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

WBX Cyliner heads reseal ( itchyfeet )
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=156223" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

2.1 WBX engine rebuild noob.... (sherlylock)
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=146855" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

WBXmayo broken head stud ( itchyfeet)
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 93&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

WBXoily head reseal and new rings (itchyfeet)
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=162629" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


other threads of mine WBX related

DJ oil cooler on a DG
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=139543" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

cheapo oil pressure gauge
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=139650" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Cheapo Oil temperature gauge
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=140680" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Costs will be updated on this post as I go along.

Around page 5 I changed direction as I got lucky and got a DJ for parts, I have therefore updated this page

You need alot of clean rags to do this, don't be temped to keep reusing rags, you can buy cleaning rags by the kilo on ebay, 10Kg is around £15 delivered, these are often offcuts from the clothing industry.


Elring full gasket set part number 356.362 ( comes with Dirco S and yellow sealant) £100 ( two single cylinder head kits are not the same as one full kit)
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... plete.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Tappets x8 £100 ( I am now reusing a set from the DJ, I can swap later if they are noisy)
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... l-all.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

big end bearings £25
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... x-all.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The little end bearings are worn. they are just on the limits but VWH have a set of genuine conrods for £112
I will refurbish these for the experience, bushes are £8 but not an easy swap.
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... ished.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... o-s-gen-vw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


cam bearings £25
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... hrust.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

main bearings £50
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... x-all.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

DG cam is best part of £200 now but I am reusing a good cam from the DJ now.
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/piston-rin ... iston.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

scat push rod tubes £65
http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Search/1/12/ ... /Best.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC10941 ... -set-of-8/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

piston rings £50 for DG £70 for DJ
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... dh-cu.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/piston-rin ... iston.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

crank case sealant £15
http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Search/1/12/ ... /Best.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Oil pump and cover ( I replaced a year ago so will reuse)
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... cam-shaft/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... 8mm-holes/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



Tools above and beyond standard stuff that I have already

0-100mm Micrometre set Moore and Wright 215 £100

Telescopic bore gauge set £15

Laser 2070 Barrel honing tool £30

Knipex 45 21 200 circip pliers (for crank circlip) £35

Crank gear puller £50
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC00013 ... ar-puller/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

100mm piston ring expander tool £10

100mm+ piston ring compressor tool £10

24mm spiral hand reamer for little ends £25

cleaned with Paraffin over a tray, there will always be some coolant in the heads that needs catching when you remove them also.

P1050186 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

removing head nuts is always a worry, I start by max 1/16th to 1/8 of a turn slowly, if you don't hear a cracking sound and feel spring tension then stop, they all cracked off nicely but it's only been 3 years since they were last removed.
E D I T, I now use a blowtorch on nuts before releasing, about a minuite or two is enough, keep it away from valve springs with a heat shield


left hand head off, there is some oil in No3 but his was the cracked head replced in 2013 and water was getting in before, I think the barrel is pitted and the rings worn more because of it.

P1050188 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

right hand head off too

P1050192 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

These heads were off the late VW recon that I now have back in the van, Polish cast in 98 so still in great condition

interesting to see how much sludge has built up around the studs in just 3 years.

P1050190 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr


seems that 'never setting' head stud sealant does indeed set after just a few years.

P1050191 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

These bits of wood and copper pipe spacers are useful to keep the barrels and pistons in place while you work on it

P1050190 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Very interesting and good photographs. Cleaver tip with the barrels.
Kenny.

Next is to remove pistons and barrels, to do this requires a pair of straight and angled circlip pliers for 2mm holes

P1050215 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

also need a gudgeon ( great name) pin puller ( 'mericans call them piston pins)

There is an offical tool but this works just as well ( probably can't buy the tool either anymore)
It's an M8 Rawlbolt with 18 inches of studding, 60mm of M8 washers, a nut to clamp the rawl bolt, a large socket to use as a slide hammer if needed, a large washer to hold the socket and two nuts tightened together to allow you to hold the studding while you tighten the rawl bolt.

P1050226 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

move barrel and piston up and gently pull the barrel up so the gudgeon pin is accessible through the hole.

rag down the side of the barrel and push it so it can catch any clips if you are butter fingered

first clip off

P1050218 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

fit rawlbolt into gudgeon and tighten nut

P1050220 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

this one came out easily by hand but if stiff you will need to use the slide hammer to tap it out, use a piece of packing between barrel and engine case if you do to stop barrel moving

remove piston and barrel and put the gudgon back in the piston the right way and number it.

next clip needs the right angled pliers (rotate clip if it's not in this position)

P1050227 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

fir rawlbolt again and pin out
P1050234 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

piece of wood if you have to slide hammer it

P1050237 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

repeat other side

P1050238 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

distributor drive gear out with an m6 bolt and electrical tape around until it is a tight fit, recover thrust washers
fuel pump rod and spacer need to come out first long with distributor spring

P1050242 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050255 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

oil pump out with puller

P1050246 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

hook tappets out with a cranked small screwdriver, these have all been numbered in case I want to put them back, I will buy new but there have been reports of new being sub standard, they all look in good condition but one at least drains down quite easily.

P1050249 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

oil pressure relief valve out with a flat piece of metal, must try and find a better tool for this

P1050256 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

flywheel, oil seal and shims already removed

front crank pulley and oil seal removed

The only one of the main case nuts that didn't want to move with a 2 foot breaker bar, some heat and it came off easily

P1050267 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

all other M8 case nuts off and the three M8 bolts ready to split but ran out of time today.

P1050261 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Not much time today but case split easily
Some bearing material in the sump but nothing too major, looks like cam gear is Zero size so luckily same as the one I got from VWH for 75 quid, cam has seen better days.
Main bearings are VW so maybe not changed on the last 'recon'
by all accounts big ends are the main cause of oil pressure loss so I will inspect next.

P1050285 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Always a pleasure to watch someone who wants it right. Pity you don't live closer - would have rolled my sleeves up. Planning to strip mine - just need another AMC head (got one) so I can get cracking as it were. Don't fancy getting in there without decent heads at the ready. Not messing with JB Weld thats for sure.

Very impressed Itchy.

I would like to be able to do this over a winter - on a spare engine - so that I can glean a better understanding of my van.

Roughly speaking, assuming no nasty surprises, what will this cost you?
i.e. what will the gaskets, sealant and all those bits you know you will need to change cost you?

2nd post is for costs to be listed later, did a rough add up a while ago
something like
gasket set 100 quid
tappets 100 quid
big end bearings 25 quid
cam bearings 25 quid
main bearings 50 quid
DG cam ? ( got one from VWH for 75 quid now sold out)
scat push rod tubes 60 quid
piston rings 50 quid
crank case sealant 15 quid

tools above and beyond standard stuff probably 300 quid again will list later.

labour at 40 to 50 quid per hour is by far the biggest cost but I'm doing it for myself for free

Slightly envious

I can't justify it at the moment - money mostly not time.
I have mine in the garage getting some rust sorted out so that will soak my slush fund, no doubt.

Out of curiosity though, did you not fancy going for a DJ variant for the internals, but keeping your existing carb?
Was that a money consideration, or does the upgrade not really warrant the extra work for the extra power etc?

DJ pistons 400 quid new
DJ cam 300 quid
got a DJ crank but needs a regrind 200 quid

if i had more power I would likely drive it faster and thats not always a good thing, it will easily do 70mph with a nice fresh DG

Yes, I hear you.
Mine will do 70 quite easily too, and that is on an engine with 40,000 approx miles on it now.

Keep these pics coming Itchy. It might eventually motivate me to get involved and do my first rebuild