Steering and suspension Replacing shock absorbers
Front shock replacement
http://www.gimme-gimme.co.uk/misc/lowering/
Ian Hulley:
o/s/f shock replaced in 35 mins
n/s/f shock replaced in 1 hr 25 mins (The top nut locked as it came off just where I couldn't get the 6mm spanner on the rod anymore... gave it some PAIN with a nut splitter - game over)
Brakes serviced, flexy's checked, bleed nipples cracked and bled, all brake unions wirebrushed and greased, all joints and bushes (which were replaced 6 months ago) checked and everything all A OK.
Tools used...
6mm comb. spanner (to hold the piston rods)
7mm comb. spanner (bleed nipples)
13mm comb. spanner (brake slider pins)
17mm comb. spanner (top shock mount nut and brakes)
19mm wheelbrace
19mm comb spanner (rear shock bolts)
19mm socket/ratchet (rear shock bolts)
22mm comb. spanner (bottom shocker mounts)
22mm socket/ratchet (bottom shocker mounts)
Pointed drift (to locate the bottom mounts)
3T trolley jack (to move the bottom control arm)
3T axle stand
Std vehicle jack (I leave this in as cover for the stand)
Wirebrush; WD40; Coppaslip; EP2 grease cartridge; Grease paint brush
Plus nut splitter and 14mm socket etc to split the top nut
Test driven and smooooooth as silk - I would certainly recommend the Sachs HD shocks
and HD rear shocks
HM: Yes, it's usually that top piston rod nut that slows things down... if the old shocker is being chucked away then grips can be used on the rod. Don't forget the rubber grommet under the front seats for access to the piston rod nut and holding flats.
