Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel clutch change
Some say their AAZs push a standard JX clutch (which I imagine you have) enough to make one slip after a short time from new. I haven't found that, it's a Syncro Doka with a good AAZ and heavily laden sometimes (overloaded even)
Diameter is 215mm I think, but its a complete JX clutch kit you want.
Don't plan to break the Olympic record, if it takes 4, 6 or 8 hours what's important is that you look at a few other things at the same time...
- Operating release fork.. free-running in its bearings, any flats or burrs on the working edges against the release bearing should be ground off with a small hand stone.
- Spigot bearing.. quite important these are in good nick on T25s. Check for free-running, lubed and not dry, and no pits or flats on the needles.
(Check condition of input shaft spigot surface, clean, shouldn't be pitted or damaged)
- Input shaft splines... clean and very lightly lubricate with moly grease, copperslip or that which comes in the small aluminium packet in the kit (if any).
- Clean and degrease flywheel face, if blued or glazed, spend some with some emery paper matting it.
use gloves and change them when getting any grease on them if working near flywheel or clucth friction surfaces. Degrease the new clutch cover plate face (whether it seems to need it or not)
- Roughly check the play in the input shaft (by whirling it, vertically/laterally), just to check there isn't a developing problem there... Aidan will tell you roughly what to expect on that one. It will move about a bit of course.
- Ideally use a clutch alignment tool, or an old input shaft and hold it up a bit to get dead central. Failing that Mk 1 eyeball dead centre and pray!
Thus, you shouldn't damage the spigot needle, trying to get the box to mate nice and square and as carefully as you can.
There's so much else you can and should check, especially the starter motor lead integrity and insulation (so disconenct battery early on)
- Gbox mounts, g/c rods and sliding bushes etc..
- Good oppy to relube inner CVJs from flange side before re-mounting them, condition of CVJ bolts (pick out heads before starting) and ensure you have the correct tool, tighten to at least 30 ft-lbf, drive-flange rock/wear, check for oil leak around them etc etc
Tie up shafts out of way with welding wire or similar...
Good luck, pretty sure a std one will hold unless vehicle is extra powerful or extra heavy
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