Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement
Throttle cable - for searchability!
http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.
Also at march 2011 Brickwerks sell some cables
2 wheel drive accelerator cable lengthsfrom ETOS
Aircooled
1 paint mark green = CT, CZ,CV lhd=3565mm
1 paint mark orange = CU lhd = 3805mm
1 paint mark red = CT, CZ, CV rhd = 3645mm
1 paint mark yellow = CU rhd = 3870mm
Watercooled
Part no/engine/RHD or LHD/length/
251 721 555 Q/2.1L/LHD/3610mm/
252 721 555 R/2.1L/RHD/3700mm
251 721 555 R/1.9L/LHD/3724mm
252 721 555 S/1.9L/RHD/3810mm
251 721 555 S/Diesel/LHD/3980mm
252 721 555 T/Diesel/RHD/4057mm
note 1.9 engines have ball end 2.1 have a solid pin which is clamped by a screw diesel have a 'hollow box'
Hacksawbob
10mm + 7mm spanner, string, replacement cable(approx £25 GSF) copper grease, WD 40, torch, philips screw driver and pliers.
There are differences between the various models and you should check out bentley or similar for any setup details that are peculiar to fuel injection ao diesel models. They are also different conections on the rear between the models so make absolutely sure that GSF have got the right part. or buy it from VW, RHD, LHD, deisel, carb, injection, manual and Automatic all have different cables with different ends and different lengths. I did this on a 1.9 Petrol after the accelerator cable was getting stuck leaving the van revving when you step on the clutch. This is a fairly easy operation and so long as nothing is corroded and you think ahead it should be farily straight forward.
Disconect the front end of the cable
Remove the front indicator light to gain access to the cable clamp bolt. and loosen it with I think a 7mm spanner and a pair of molegrips holding . Keep it safe as without the cable it can fall out n to remove it. The rear end of the cabl remove the concertina rubber boot by pulling it off the end
tie a piece of string or strong fishing wire to the cable end
Disconect the middle
the cable is bolted to the middle chassis member with 10mm nut and bolt disconected here. just forward of this there shuold be a short braided rubber tube conecting the removeable cable assembly to the plastic sleeve. Pull this apart and pull through the cable AND the string from the front to back.
Disconect rear.
The cable enters the front of the engine bay then has a retaining circlip to the right of the carb pull this criclip off with some pliers. The end of the cable is trapped in the carb actuator but will remove once you get some slack on it. make a note of how it connects so you can re attach it later. Pull through the rear section of cable to the middle using the string trick again, this is optional for the rear but may help remind you of the route it takes.
I squirted some WD 40 down the cable to help lubricate it and hopefully keep the moisture out.
Fit new cable
slip on the rubber braided connector and pull cable through from the front with the string and re attach the front clamp (if you didn't loose it like me!)
Pull the rear section through to the back and attach to the rear actuator and replace the circlip
Attach the bolt in the centre. Some copper grease wouldn't go amiss here.
Check the cable for play and tighten with the front clamp as necessary. it should just be taut but not pulling on the carb.
