Steering and suspension Replacing shock absorbers

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Revision as of 11:16, 28 July 2010 by HarryMann (talk | contribs) (Created page with 'o/s/f shock replaced in 35 mins n/s/f shock replaced in 1 hr 25 mins (the top nut locked as it came off just where I couldn't get the 6mm spanner on the rod anymore .... gave it …')
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o/s/f shock replaced in 35 mins n/s/f shock replaced in 1 hr 25 mins (the top nut locked as it came off just where I couldn't get the 6mm spanner on the rod anymore .... gave it some PAIN with a nut splitter - game over )

Brakes serviced, flexy's checked, bleed nipples cracked and bled, all brake unions wirebrushed and greased, all joints and bushes (which were replaced in January) checked and everything all A OK.

Tools used... 6mm comb. spanner (to hold the piston rods) 7mm comb. spanner (bleed nipples) 13mm comb. spanner (brake slider pins) 17mm comb. spanner (top shock mount nut and brakes) 19mm wheelbrace 19mm comb spanner (rear shock bolts) 19mm socket/ratchet (rear shock bolts) 22mm comb. spanner (bottom shocker mounts) 22mm socket/ratchet (bottom shocker mounts) Pointed drift (to locate the bottom mounts) 3T trolley jack (to move the bottom control arm) 3T axle stand Std vehicle jack (I leave this in as cover for the stand) Wirebrush; WD40; Coppaslip; EP2 grease cartridge; Grease paint brush

Plus nut splitter and 14mm socket etc to split the top nut

Test driven and smooooooth as silk - I would certainly recommend the Sachs HD shocks

Sachs HD front shocks and HD rear shocks