Gearbox Cutch CVs - Clutch slave-cylinder

Introduction

There are at least two different configurations of slave cylinder pipework from masetr through chassis to slave. When some of the metal parts corrode or break, it can be difficult to work out exactly what you need, source the parts or carry out the work. However, There is now enough information around to short-circuit soem or hopefully all these problems...

Please use the links provided below to the 80-90 Tech Archive topics 

ClartsOnly: The difference between the pre '86 clutch slave cylinder pipes. the pre '86 is a flexipipe, a bracket and a solid "brakes pipe" the later upgrade is the £18 plastic pipe from the clutch pipe on the chassis directly to the clutch slave.

Baxter's Brickwerks sells some clutch operating system parts now difficult to obtain from VW..

Pipework Explanation

To come...

Slave cylinder explanation

These can fail, rust badly, have sheared odd bleed nippes, get blocked etc

Useful Forum Posts

Aidan: You have been sent one for a syncro, which has a banjo connection at the slave cylinder to facilitate swap outs because of the worse access.

The rear pipe for the early hydraulic set up, eg. CU and other aircooleds is no longer available from VW

The pipe for the waterboxers chassis number D 0000001 to F 079999 is 251 721 479 C and is £27 plus the vat from VW (asof 2007)

The pipe for the early Diesels upto F 079999 is no longer available.

The pipe for the Diesel F 080000 is 251 721 477 J and is £14 plus vat from VW

This same pipe is used on the later Waterboxers, as well as the Diesels

Both use a connecting hose 251 721 477 D from the fixed line and this is £24 plus vat. (asof 2007)

Hope this helps

Why don't people ask VW first - stuff is still available, a lot of it has come down in price recently too, get it now while you can

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sendiw: Well done Clartsonly

251 721 477J is definately the right part replacement for the old metal/rubber clutch hydraulic pipe. I fitted it today.. no problem. Give yourself a big pat-on-the-back.

A tip for separating the flexihose from the front line pipe without damaging the front pipe. File an 11mm spanner to 11.5mm and use that with a little persuasion on the front pipe union, if you use a 12mm it will round off and you will probably have to replace the entire front pipe. Don't turn that union just hold it and unscrew the flexihose from the union.

That done... if the union is seized on the pipe, use a blow lamp on it and allow it to cool. It should free off. It needs to be free to screw into your new replacement part. Well it worked for me!

Forum Topic Links

80-90 thread on slave cylinder plastic pipe connection

Another 80-90 thread on slave cylinder plastic pipe connection