Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance
HarryMann: Slow into second when cold or synchromesh reluctance in very cold weather is fairly common on many boxes and the T25 can suffer this too, particularly as the miles build up and synchro hubs wear. Here's a few tips...
Redline synthetic transaxle oil does help, as this is one of it's claims (an optimised friction/viscosity curve). MT90 is recommended for T25 transaxles, though MTL (the slightly lighter one for VW FWD GTi boxes) is in one of mine.. seems OK, and Comma semi synth SX gear oil (75W/90) in another (£25 for 5 litres)
This is not all about oil or viscosity either, though a thicker oil would be expected to make things worse in winter.
Many boxes, not just ours, have this problem, of slow into 2nd when cold, one other being Lancia FWD boxes of the Betas, Deltas and Prismas. Otherwise, good and strong boxes.
The problem with getting that change wrong and persisting is making it progressivley worse as the sharpness wears off teeth of the engagment rings - Dave at Shiplake Eng. showed me a well worn one as an example the other day, I'll see if I can't get a good photo to show what happens.
There'a few tricks, one has been mentioned - double-de-clutch - slip it into neutral, let the clutch up quickly as you blip the throttle just the right amount, clutch back down and ease it firmly into 2nd gear (no yanking that lever, just firm pressure). All before the vehicle's slowed down too much, so if going slightly uphill, don't bother changing up too early, a common sin. Letting the clutch up when the lever is in neutral, speeds the gears up again, ready for meshing at the correct speed, whereas just blipping the throttle, speeds the engine back up OK, but not the mainshaft as well.
Another, when on the flat or downhill, is to take 1st a bit further than normal and go straight and quite quickly into 3rd. With Lancias, when very cold, you'd virtually have to do this as they would often be too heavy to drag into 2nd, and if you succeeded, the gradual damage described above would occurr - anyone with much mechanical sympathy would soon know damage was being done.
Another trick when lightweight, on flat or downhill, is to simply pull away in 2nd gear, the clutch is designed as a wearable replaceable item, the gearbox isn't. Don't slip it for ages, hardly any wear at all occurs just letting it in quite quickly with the right revs and throttle.
If you test a vehicle when warmed up and it snicks into 2nd or 3rd going up the box, this is the reason, someone's been assuming that synchromesh relieves them of the duty of changing gear considerately, just dragging it in regardless of any complaints or reticence to synchronise when cold. Only the best of the smaller and lighter units can usually cope with this.
Once the baulk rings and synchro hubs are worn, there is less chance you will get a good change when cold, whatever the oil, though Redline does seem to make a diiference, if you can afford it (they advertise it as having an ideal dynamic friction coefficient curve, and is often advertised for Golf GTs and the like, so it's unlikely this is a vehicle specific problem)
The long front to back necessitating a complex and often well-worn selection mechanism on T25s doesn't help either - if this is all in good condition it definitely helps the driver feel it into gear, or realise quickly its not interested!
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?subcatID=18
Just don't even try into 2nd when around freezing outside from coldstart if box is like that... fast idling it a while in neutral might help a bit (never a good idea to slow idle for long periods ~ older engines should be warmed up by driving or fast idled).
(linkage) Adjustment isn't often the answer unless it's been messed up. It's really all the joints right throughout the selection mechanism that need to be in good nick, without congealed and dirty grease stiffening it. Checkout this topic:
