Difference between revisions of "Petrol engines intermittent 2.1"
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[http://www.benplace.com/capacitors.htm| capacitors for above fix] | [http://www.benplace.com/capacitors.htm| capacitors for above fix] | ||
== Non-vanagon syndrome | == Non-vanagon syndrome intermittent cut-outs or bad running == | ||
Symptons | Symptons like vanagon syndrome but not cured by the normal vanagon syndrome fixes... | ||
On both DJs and MVs electrics/electronics can become flaky after 15 ~20 years from new. Check and remake good engine and engine bay earths, connectors, and on MVs | On both DJs and MVs electrics/electronics can become flaky after 15 ~20 years from new. Check and remake good engine and engine bay earths, connectors, and on MVs always think 'Lambda sensor' (O2 sensor failure) or its wiring (IIRC - a bad sensor can be disconnected to trouble-shoot) | ||
Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter (blocked) | Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter (blocked) | ||
But | But always first check for: | ||
Dirty fuel tank, water in fuel, | Dirty fuel tank, water in fuel, dirty fuel filter | ||
Decent plugs, decent connections to injectors, and to Ignition Hall unit... | Decent plugs, decent connections to injectors, and to Ignition Hall unit... | ||
Fuel pressure, 28~30 psi | |||
Connectors to AFM (corrosion) has been reported | |||
== Bad starting/flooding/rough running until hot == | == Bad starting/flooding/rough running until hot == |
Revision as of 00:33, 11 July 2008
General
Beaker: Check that you have 12v on pin 30 in the distribution box left side front of engine as this supplies the fuel and ecu relays, then check the outputs from both the relays, if the ecu doesn't get it's ignition switched 12v it won't start.
Check spark at plugs
Check connections on temp2 sender and afm
Check connector to ECU (maybe the wind and damp got to it)
Check that air inlet not blocked somewhere (eg birds nest material in cyclone)
Check trigger signals to injectors
Check fuel pump running
Check connections hall sender and isv and idle control unit - try taking the idle out of the system too - a faulty control unit may affect the start up, the ecu is told it's starting by the ignition switch and throttle switch and adjusts accordingly
Classic 'Vanagon' syndrome
Vanagon syncdrome can take a variety of forms, but originally intended to cover cases of injected US origin MVs misfiring after a considerable mileage from start of journey right up to stopping. Symptons usually disapear after stopping for a while. But do not assume that the fix is always the std. vanagon syncdrome fix which only works in some cases.
There was an identified cause covered in the following links, AFM potentiometer tracks, AFM trigger signal instability etc. However, on both DJs and MVs electrics/electronics can become flaky after 15 ~20 years from new. Check and remake good engine and engine bay earths, connectors, and on MVs always think 'Lambda sensor' (O2 sensor failure) or its wiring.
Non-vanagon syndrome intermittent cut-outs or bad running
Symptons like vanagon syndrome but not cured by the normal vanagon syndrome fixes...
On both DJs and MVs electrics/electronics can become flaky after 15 ~20 years from new. Check and remake good engine and engine bay earths, connectors, and on MVs always think 'Lambda sensor' (O2 sensor failure) or its wiring (IIRC - a bad sensor can be disconnected to trouble-shoot)
Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter (blocked)
But always first check for:
Dirty fuel tank, water in fuel, dirty fuel filter
Decent plugs, decent connections to injectors, and to Ignition Hall unit...
Fuel pressure, 28~30 psi
Connectors to AFM (corrosion) has been reported
Bad starting/flooding/rough running until hot
Usually the T2 temp sender fails or its wiring from under or behind the thermostat. Can be intermittent and can stop the engine through flooding, usually when starting. Sometimes the ISU (idle stabiliser unit), or the IS control unit on the n/s bulkhead or behind the o/s tail-light (Syncros)can prevent running