Syncro - Testing

1) Gearbox selects all gears (G/R and 1-4) and isn't jumping out of any gears when lift off, partic. R/G or 3/4

2) Gearbox/transmission isn't howling, whining loudly (front diffs often have a hum/whine around 50 ish, doesn't condemn them unless its awful). Some claim not hear this even when its quite obvious...

3) Propshaft is fitted (cannot determine next two without it, so be suspicious of this one and get it fitted before road test - if its said the prop UJs are shot then this alone is £175 ish, but cannot then test whole transmission)

4) VC is working (they eiher fail open or closed) - Main thing is not failed open (no traction) as then its not a 4WD. Try climbing up a wet grassy bank and see if fronts are pulling well, any nominal slope should get the thing working. Syncro steering on full lock on tarmac surfaces gets heavy, and slows vehicle down (drags) - this is normal to some extent. A 'stiff' VC will have this charcatersitc emphasised, a matter of judgement. 4x2 or MOT roller test can be done - see club80-90 Syncro website for details. 4b) VC replacement isn't uncommon - allow ~£450.

5) Really bad vibration between 35-45 mph is transmission vibration, either created by prop UJs shot or general tiredness in engine/transmission mounts or misalignment somewhere (mild vibration is not uncommon and doesn't condemn it)

6) Differently worn tyres front/back (1mm or more) or a mix of different makes/models would not be a good sign, indicating lack of owner care and potential transmission stress (VC life threatened or expired, potentially leading to increased gearbox wear and failure)

7) Excessive slack in transmission (throttle drop test, clunking) - indicates wear in:

Diff(s); other gearbox internals; Prop UJs; CVJs; maybe engine/trans mountings, but usually not.

7b) Clicking on full lock, forward and reverse - usually front outer CV's (the most expensive and heavily loaded CVJs);

8) Visuals - Inspect CVJ boots for splits/grease;

Transaxle and front diff drive flanges for oil leaks;

Underrun bars and front bashplate should be present and give an idea of Off-road use (don't over-react), just check that front of transaxle hasn't been impacted and they aren't seriously bent;

State of discs (thickness/wear) and rear brake backplates (give an idea of corrosion)

9) Diff-locks - Has it two knobs in cab or one (only rear dfflock, not so desiravle but doesn't condemn it); Commonly won't work if unused/not maintained for a year or so - usually not a serious problem to fix, though can be fiddly.

10) General roadability - drives well, all gears select nicely (that'd be a good'un) including G/R requiring lever depression across gate; quiet and smooth is what you are looking for, with good clutch take up and lack of drama all-round.

11) Chassis/body corrosion as for a normal T25