Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer

Traders, T25 specialists and 80-90 community members find that some non-genuine VW parts don't always cut the mustard!
Thanks to contributors - these sort of tips can save an awful amount of time, trouble and.... money.

Header tank caps, loads of problems, never hold pressure - buy genuine!

Thermostats, don't seems to open far enough, again cost me time.

Temp senders, problems on Diesels, they seem okay on petrols.

There seems to be 3 qualities of rear wheel cylinder, I only now use the most expensive ones, had problems with the cheaper ones leaking within 12 months.

Anti roll bar to bottom arm bushes don't last 2 minutes, but I use poly ones now anyway.

Washer jets need to be dropped into boiling water before fitment or they just snap their little legs off!

Front inner wheel bearings seem a little tight on the shaft, you really need to fettle the shaft with some 80's to get them to slide on.

Brake pads - whilst many cheaper alternatives work - Genuine VW really work better, so if it matters at least get your pads and shoes from VW.

Beaker: Had a Hi-Torq branded top ball joint from them last year, started to fail inside 3000 miles, was spotted and replaced but I missed out on the warranty by 2 days !!!

I would agree that you pays your money and ......I get VW when I can justify it, i.e. a part that should be good for ten years, and which is a major job to replace, or when there is no choice, otherwise GSF, EuroCarParts, Brakes International or my local factor AndrewPage [1], who will pay the labour charge on replacing failed or out of spec parts which means they do really try to get it right.

Pickles: In my experience I would not buy any more from GSF the following items:-

Tie rod ends and tie rods

Water jacket gaskets (only full kits)

Wheel Cylinders

Bushes

Thermostats

Ball Joints

I would buy:- Exhausts (Ernst)

Clutches

Brake Pads (top quality