Difference between revisions of "General Underseal chisel"
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It's often useful when spotting a small suspect area of delaminating (original) VW underseal, to investigate further. Invariably there'll be damp and water behind it (dark rusty, rather than dry rusty metal). | It's often useful when spotting a small suspect area of delaminating (original) VW underseal, to investigate further. Invariably there'll be damp and water behind it (dark rusty, rather than dry rusty metal). | ||
A few minutes shaping | A few minutes shaping an old wood chisel on a bench grinder, or surface stone can make a good tool for easily cutting/shearing the whole thickness of underseal away, and picking apart any areas holding damp. | ||
I used a reasonable Draper 3/8" chisel, and occasionally re-shape and re-sharpen it. Rough and ready first, then a smooth stone to re-sharpen. | |||
[[File:Underseal chisel_01.JPG]] | [[File:Underseal chisel_01.JPG]] | ||
The idea when shaping is to round the corners to stop it digging in, yet retain some sharpness around those edges. Long slivers of u/seal can then be sheared off right back to the original paint, without too much damage to the metal surface itself. | |||
The aim is to get air inside the rust pocket, dry it out, de-scale and then treat (at least temporarily), say with an anti-rust paint or quick soaking inside and out with a a-r spray (Dinitrol RC900 is my current favourite) | |||
Revision as of 01:42, 11 July 2010
It's often useful when spotting a small suspect area of delaminating (original) VW underseal, to investigate further. Invariably there'll be damp and water behind it (dark rusty, rather than dry rusty metal).
A few minutes shaping an old wood chisel on a bench grinder, or surface stone can make a good tool for easily cutting/shearing the whole thickness of underseal away, and picking apart any areas holding damp.
I used a reasonable Draper 3/8" chisel, and occasionally re-shape and re-sharpen it. Rough and ready first, then a smooth stone to re-sharpen.
The idea when shaping is to round the corners to stop it digging in, yet retain some sharpness around those edges. Long slivers of u/seal can then be sheared off right back to the original paint, without too much damage to the metal surface itself.
The aim is to get air inside the rust pocket, dry it out, de-scale and then treat (at least temporarily), say with an anti-rust paint or quick soaking inside and out with a a-r spray (Dinitrol RC900 is my current favourite)
