Syncro locker actuators removal

Early/Late differences

Diff-lock brackets come in two varieties, front bracket 40mm externally from the face of the bracket (that sits on the packing plate) to the top of the "legs" Late brackets are either front(shorter) or rear (Llonger) but the early can be used on either.

A medical syringe with needle full of plus gas gets it right where you need it, at any angle. You can also push it through the rubber boot so potetially could free a reluctant diff lock with out any dismantling. Just make sure to put the cap needle when not in use, I'm sure a vein full of oil wouldn't do you any good!

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Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:

Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit 251 711 822

Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit Bracket (Retainer) 094 301 142 £18-92

Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35

(being very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off)

Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96

Compression washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly)

Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch rubber Cap 191 919 459 £1-55

Spring-pin (roll-pin) (3dia. x 10mm) – (Vac Actuator pushrod securing) N 013 294 2 £0-23

Circlip (Ring) – Pushrod Bush Retaining N 012 417 1 £0-26

O-ring for diff-lock pushrod bush (seals bush in transaxle or front diff unit) 19.7mm x 1.7mm O-ring N 902 621 01 £0-26

(O-ring can easily get damaged (split) when freeing up a seized pushrod; some don’t replace hoping a small oil weep will stop it seizing up again)

Syncro website parts page

Freeing-up seized difflocks

'Aidan: There's an 'O' ring on the outside of the alloy sleeve that seals it against the case and there's the most expensive oil seal in the world on the shaft itself. There's usully electrolytic corrosion in front of and just behind the seal, also certain chemicals seem to affect the seal and cause it to swell and deform (it's square section twin lipped thing) and become jammed.

I recommend using gear oil as the lubricant, in through the tell tale hole and repetative manipulation in and out, with an allen key through the roll pin hole on a late (mid 86 build on) one. Early's with the short pin are a pain to free, they are like the front one, you were lucky with that, when the front is bad it's a diff out job; if you can't free the rear insitu then it's box out time to take the bellhousing off and strip the whole thing and do it on the bench. I have had to ream some sleeves they were that corroded.

They are splash lubricated with gear oil through a little hole with no drain, as the oil becomes cruddier the crud builds up and the lube fails. Salt water seepage from without and it jams Shocked solid

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