Difference between revisions of "General Cold Front"

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Even with a good MIG on low setting, it's a good idea to stop after each spot weld, using a damp cloth to quickly cool the area before continuing..
Even with a good MIG on low setting, it's a good idea to stop after each spot weld, using a damp cloth to quickly cool the area before continuing..


You can get a cold putty from Frosts [url=http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8822]Cold Front[/url] that sucks heat away locally, put it around edge near weld to stop distortion, to some extent can be re-used. Use an 80/20 or 95/5 Argon mix* on low power I'd think and keep stopping, do it in short bursts.  
You can get a cold putty from Frosts called [http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8822 Cold Front] that sucks heat away locally, put it around edge near weld to stop distortion, to some extent can be re-used. Use an 80/20 or 95/5 Argon mix* on low power I'd think and keep stopping, do it in short bursts.  
 
I think Cold Front works by evaporation, its like a menthol putty :-)


*CO2 seems to need a lot more power!
*CO2 seems to need a lot more power!

Latest revision as of 21:57, 29 September 2008

Welding thin panels, especially at the edge (window frames come to mind) it's very difficult to prevent buckling

Even with a good MIG on low setting, it's a good idea to stop after each spot weld, using a damp cloth to quickly cool the area before continuing..

You can get a cold putty from Frosts called Cold Front that sucks heat away locally, put it around edge near weld to stop distortion, to some extent can be re-used. Use an 80/20 or 95/5 Argon mix* on low power I'd think and keep stopping, do it in short bursts.

I think Cold Front works by evaporation, its like a menthol putty :-)

  • CO2 seems to need a lot more power!