Difference between revisions of "Camping Interior Eberspacher"
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Make sure the exhaust is clear, and intact.If the exhaust is holed, or cracked it will suck in air, which will cause the heater to shut down. | Make sure the exhaust is clear, and intact.If the exhaust is holed, or cracked it will suck in air, which will cause the heater to shut down. | ||
Make sure the | Make sure the combustion air inlet is clear and intact, and not sited at the end of the exhuast, as if the heater ''sniffs'' ehausted fumes it will shut down. | ||
The combustion inlet and exhust should be the same length, (50cm ideally) as these heaters use a | The combustion inlet and exhust should be the same length, (50cm ideally) as these heaters use a ''Balanced flue'' system, and will be undully noisey (howling!) if the inlet and exhaust are too unbalanced. | ||
Fuel! Check that the heater is | Fuel! Check that the heater is in fact getting fuel. | ||
The DL1C will only attempt to start 10 times without getting fuel before throwing up a fault code. | The DL1C will only attempt to start 10 times without getting fuel before throwing up a fault code. | ||
It will then need resetting before it will start again. | It will then need resetting before it will start again. |
Revision as of 20:26, 29 January 2007
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Eberspacher Heaters All Eberspacher heaters have a voltage protection system, protecting both overvoltage and undervoltage, this also serves to protect the battery voltage dropping below the minimum required for starting the vehicle , should you be connected to the main battery. This voltage is measured at the fuse point at the heater, NOT at the battery, and a common mistake made in installations is cable length and voltage drop - the feed lines should be no more than 0.75cm long, as supplied with the heater orgiginally, or the core diameter of the wire needs to be increased to stop the voltage drop caused by the longer run of the feed wire. The undervoltage protection switches off the heater when the voltage drops below 10.5vdc at the heater.
If your heater will not start, here are a few other points to look at Make sure the outlet ducting for the hot air is not blocked or restricted in any way , it must remain the same diameter as it starts at the heater, which for the DL1C is 60mm.
Make sure the exhaust is clear, and intact.If the exhaust is holed, or cracked it will suck in air, which will cause the heater to shut down.
Make sure the combustion air inlet is clear and intact, and not sited at the end of the exhuast, as if the heater sniffs ehausted fumes it will shut down.
The combustion inlet and exhust should be the same length, (50cm ideally) as these heaters use a Balanced flue system, and will be undully noisey (howling!) if the inlet and exhaust are too unbalanced.
Fuel! Check that the heater is in fact getting fuel. The DL1C will only attempt to start 10 times without getting fuel before throwing up a fault code. It will then need resetting before it will start again.