Difference between revisions of "VW Electrics battery to dash"

From VW T25(T3)-Tech
Jump to navigationJump to search
Line 15: Line 15:
[[File:Heavycabletodash.jpg]]
[[File:Heavycabletodash.jpg]]


For ther terminal block, you'll need to look at marine/auto terminal blocks in the 300amp range. You'll never draw that much ofcourse but there are many terminal blocks that are for low-draw stuff the rely on philips screws to hold cables firm. You do NOT want those. The type I used consists of two 8mm nuts and bolts house in a black insulalted case. Its robust enough and more suited to battery cables.
For ther terminal block, you'll need to look at marine/auto terminal blocks in the 300amp range. You'll never draw that much ofcourse but there are many terminal blocks that are for low-draw stuff the rely on philips screws to hold cables firm. You do NOT want those. The type I used consists of two 8mm nuts and bolts house in a black insulalted case. Its robust enough and more suited to battery cables. You'll need two of these - one for battery end, and one for under the dash. I paid under £12 for them including postage.


Obviously youi'll need to source good quality connectors - 'Copper Tube Terminals' (as below) - not conventional crimp ring connectors, and use proper shrink tubing:
Obviously youi'll need to source good quality connectors - 'Copper Tube Terminals' (as below) - not conventional crimp ring connectors, and use proper shrink tubing:

Revision as of 15:04, 18 February 2015

Penned by Covkid

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, but for anyone fitting headlight relays or needing a connection without voltage losses, this is the heavy-duty way to do it.

Your battery may be under the seat or in the engine bay, but assuming you've also upgraded main power cables see: then you may want to improve the cable to the dash and perhaps tidy up (for good) the mutitude of extra cables that can end up fastened to the battery positive terminal.

The existing cable to the fusebox was quite adequate at the time the vehicle was in production but only just copes with all the upgrades we do now. I replaced mine with a 16mm 110amp cable for maximimum surface area but a 10mm cable would be equally good. VW used 6mm for the original feed. The replacement stuff is similar to the upgraded power cables used on high-powered stereos, described in some places as simply 'battery cable'. In any event, its multi-strand and very flexible. I bought a complete reel of it (just under £40). It goes from an insulated connection box close to the battery and then to another under the dash and from there to the fusebox or wherever you want raw power.

This is the stuff I used - 16mm 110amp (20p coin for reference):


Heavycabletodash.jpg

For ther terminal block, you'll need to look at marine/auto terminal blocks in the 300amp range. You'll never draw that much ofcourse but there are many terminal blocks that are for low-draw stuff the rely on philips screws to hold cables firm. You do NOT want those. The type I used consists of two 8mm nuts and bolts house in a black insulalted case. Its robust enough and more suited to battery cables. You'll need two of these - one for battery end, and one for under the dash. I paid under £12 for them including postage.

Obviously youi'll need to source good quality connectors - 'Copper Tube Terminals' (as below) - not conventional crimp ring connectors, and use proper shrink tubing:


Ringterm1a.jpg

Toolstation do them (branches everywhere and in some places they're based in Wickes): http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electri ... ugs/p32996

I bought 8mm ones (correct size for terminal block) in 6mm, 10mm and 16mm (10 of each in pack) - £6.35 for all of them (30). Theres enough thread in terminal block to stack washers between connectors if you want to space them better.

Part numbers for lugs: 55534, 87832, 11930

Needs a mini blowtorch or gas soldering iron, flux and solder to fit them but not too tricky and best connection you'll get. REMEMBER to slide shrink tubing on BEFORE you solder on lugs, then slide it back over join and shrink. Incidentally, I discovered today that although I have a small blowtorch, the ALDI workzone gas soldering iron (with soldering bit removed) will also do the job. Did five lugs on the trot with that - not probs. Well worth buying one next time they come in if you don't have access to a gas soldering iron. Forget how much it was - prob under £15.

I guarantee if you go to all this trouble (perhaps a couple of hours max), voltage drops to fusebox or anywhere under the dash won't be a problem, but the headlight harness may need upgrading to really get the best out of it..

I should WIKI this I suppose....