VW Electrics main cables - Revision history

CovKid: /* Replacing cables */

2015-10-15T08:25:13Z

Replacing cables

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:25, 15 October 2015
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	==Replacing cables==		==Replacing cables==

	Disconnect battery. I started by removing the old corroded cable on the alternator (above photo) which was not one, but two red cables, twisted around the post and clamped between two washers (not by me!!). This cable didn't, as you might expect, go directly to the starter terminal as it does on so many v-dubs but went to a post connection inside the black junction box in the engine bay on the left (see photo below). Another separate red wire goes from this post back to the starter terminal. It seems that not ALL T25s (mine is a Caravelle 84/85) have this connection, some instead ~~going~~ directly to starter connection but thought it worth mentioning in case you encounter the same.		Disconnect battery. I started by removing the old corroded cable on the alternator (above photo) which was not one, but two red cables, twisted around the post and clamped between two washers (not by me!!). This cable didn't, as you might expect, go directly to the starter terminal as it does on so many v-dubs but went to a post connection inside the black junction box in the engine bay on the left (see photo below). Another separate red wire goes from this post back to the starter terminal. It seems that not ALL T25s (mine is a Caravelle 84/85) have this connection, some instead (like earlier Bays & Beetles) go directly to starter connection but thought it worth mentioning in case you encounter the same.

	[[File:cab3x.jpg]]		[[File:cab3x.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing cables */

2015-10-15T08:23:58Z

Replacing cables

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:23, 15 October 2015
Line 26:		Line 26:
	==Replacing cables==		==Replacing cables==

	I started by removing the old corroded cable on the alternator (above photo) which was not one, but two red cables, twisted around the post and clamped between two washers (not by me!!). This cable didn't, as you might expect, go directly to the starter terminal as it does on so many v-dubs but went to a post connection inside the black junction box in the engine bay on the left (see photo below). Another separate red wire goes from this post back to the starter terminal. It seems that not ALL T25s (mine is a Caravelle 84/85) have this connection, some instead going directly to starter connection but thought it worth mentioning in case you encounter the same.		Disconnect battery. I started by removing the old corroded cable on the alternator (above photo) which was not one, but two red cables, twisted around the post and clamped between two washers (not by me!!). This cable didn't, as you might expect, go directly to the starter terminal as it does on so many v-dubs but went to a post connection inside the black junction box in the engine bay on the left (see photo below). Another separate red wire goes from this post back to the starter terminal. It seems that not ALL T25s (mine is a Caravelle 84/85) have this connection, some instead going directly to starter connection but thought it worth mentioning in case you encounter the same.

	[[File:cab3x.jpg]]		[[File:cab3x.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Cable corrosion */

2015-10-15T08:23:18Z

Cable corrosion

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:23, 15 October 2015
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	The photo below shows the terrible (although not untypical) state of a cable at the rear of an alternator. This grey-green colour is acid corrosion which can also cause the insulation to blister, crack and break away. Unfortunately this corrosion tends to work its way along the entire length. Most alternator connections actually terminate in a plug rather than like this and therefore the state of them can easily be missed. You'll also find that no matter how far you cut back, the problem persists and it potentially creates resistance - reducing the alternator's ability to charge and the starter's ability to turn the engine over. Moreover, the stands can weaken and break too, further reducing the capacity of the cable to deliver, causing heat build-up and more damage.		The photo below shows the terrible (although not untypical) state of a cable at the rear of an alternator. This grey-green colour is acid corrosion which can also cause the insulation to blister, crack and break away. Unfortunately this corrosion tends to work its way along the entire length. Most alternator connections actually terminate in a plug rather than like this and therefore the state of them can easily be missed. You'll also find that no matter how far you cut back, the problem persists and it potentially creates resistance - reducing the alternator's ability to charge and the starter's ability to turn the engine over. Moreover, the stands can weaken and break too, further reducing the capacity of the cable to deliver, causing heat build-up and more damage.

	When things have become this bad, the only thing you can do is replace the cables ~~completely~~ and solder new connectors as and where required. You can crimp (if you have access to oversized crimps) but in my view. soldering makes for a more reliable 'sealed' connection and with shrink tubing, should shrug off the weather. You could do both I suppose.		When things have become this bad, solder won't take and the only thing you can do is replace the cables entirely and solder new connectors as and where required. You can crimp (if you have access to oversized crimps) but in my view. soldering makes for a more reliable 'sealed' connection and with shrink tubing, should shrug off the weather. You could do both I suppose.

	[[File:cab1x.jpg]]		[[File:cab1x.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Cable corrosion */

2015-10-15T08:21:46Z

Cable corrosion

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:21, 15 October 2015
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	==Cable corrosion==		==Cable corrosion==

	The photo below shows the terrible (although not untypical) state of a cable at the rear of an alternator. This is acid corrosion which can also cause the insulation to crack and break away ~~leaving bare copper wire~~. Most alternator connections actually terminate in a plug rather than like this and therefore the state of them can easily be missed. ~~The copper within either starter or alternator cable can become brittle and corroded,~~ no matter how far you cut back, and potentially ~~create~~ resistance - reducing the alternator's ability to charge and the starter's ability to turn the engine over. ~~The~~ stands can weaken and break too, further reducing the capacity of the cable to deliver, causing heat build-up and more damage.		The photo below shows the terrible (although not untypical) state of a cable at the rear of an alternator. This grey-green colour is acid corrosion which can also cause the insulation to blister, crack and break away. Unfortunately this corrosion tends to work its way along the entire length. Most alternator connections actually terminate in a plug rather than like this and therefore the state of them can easily be missed. You'll also find that no matter how far you cut back, the problem persists and it potentially creates resistance - reducing the alternator's ability to charge and the starter's ability to turn the engine over. Moreover, the stands can weaken and break too, further reducing the capacity of the cable to deliver, causing heat build-up and more damage.

	~~Generally, when~~ things have become this bad, the only thing you can do is replace the cables completely and solder new connectors as and where required. You can crimp (if you have access to oversized crimps) but in my view. soldering makes for a more reliable connection and ~~helps seal~~ the ~~cable~~. You could do both I suppose.		When things have become this bad, the only thing you can do is replace the cables completely and solder new connectors as and where required. You can crimp (if you have access to oversized crimps) but in my view. soldering makes for a more reliable 'sealed' connection and with shrink tubing, should shrug off the weather. You could do both I suppose.

	[[File:cab1x.jpg]]		[[File:cab1x.jpg]]

CovKid at 06:14, 24 May 2015

2015-05-24T06:14:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:14, 24 May 2015
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	Then rub some flux over the exposed copper cable, slide the ring connector on, warm up with a small blowtorch that jewellers use these days, and run the solder in. Its important not to do this vertically though or you run the risk of running too much solder in which can work its way too far down the cable. Try to monitor the amount of solder you're using as it will keep taking it by capillary action if you don't. You don't want the cable to soak up too much, cool, and become inflexible.		Then rub some flux over the exposed copper cable, slide the ring connector on, warm up with a small blowtorch that jewellers use these days, and run the solder in. Its important not to do this vertically though or you run the risk of running too much solder in which can work its way too far down the cable. Try to monitor the amount of solder you're using as it will keep taking it by capillary action if you don't. You don't want the cable to soak up too much, cool, and become inflexible.

	Once cool, just use some shrink tubing to keep out air and water - remembering to slide the shrink tubing on BEFORE putting the ring connector on. Ring connectors are not cheap ~~but~~ you can make your own fairly easily if you follow this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpFb_Yxl_hA		Once cool, just use some shrink tubing to keep out air and water - remembering to slide the shrink tubing on BEFORE putting the ring connector on. Ring connectors are not cheap in some places so you can make your own fairly easily if you follow this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpFb_Yxl_hA

CovKid: /* Introduction - Good Connections */

2015-04-01T06:22:31Z

Introduction - Good Connections

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:22, 1 April 2015
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	Good connections and good cable are essential for effective charging and starting. However, after 30 years work, the main heavy-gauge cables that go from alternator to starter, and battery to starter, can be subject to deterioration.		Good connections and good cable are essential for effective charging and starting. However, after 30 years work, the main heavy-gauge cables that go from alternator to starter, and battery to starter, can be subject to deterioration.

	The thickest cable by far is the one between the battery and starter and if you drive a T25 with your main battery behind the drivers seat, you'll realise that its quite a distance between the two (actually 4 metres!). It not only needs sound connections at each end, it needs to be in good condition generally as it can draw as much as 160amps on a very cold morning. Any replacement cable should ideally be close to or rated for 200amps to meet that demand - which isn't cheap. The alternator cable isn't quite as chunky but will also, over time, corrode and a thicker cable won't hurt.		The thickest cable by far is the one between the battery and starter and if you drive a T25 with your main battery behind the drivers seat, you'll realise that its quite a distance between the two (actually 2-3 metres!). It not only needs sound connections at each end, it needs to be in good condition generally as it can draw as much as 160amps on a very cold morning. Any replacement cable should ideally be close to or rated for 200amps to meet that demand - which isn't cheap. The alternator cable isn't quite as chunky but will also, over time, corrode and a thicker cable won't hurt.

	For this upgrade I replaced both of these cables with 4 metres of 25mm 'fine strand' cable as that's what I had. It was probably way thicker than I needed but more has to be better than less. Avoid cable which has thicker strands - it has less surface area and won't stand up to bending - it is not suitable.		For this upgrade I replaced both of these cables with 4 metres of 25mm 'fine strand' cable as that's what I had. It was probably way thicker than I needed but more has to be better than less. Avoid cable which has thicker strands - it has less surface area and won't stand up to bending - it is not suitable.

CovKid: /* Replacing cables */

2015-02-18T15:12:22Z

Replacing cables

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:12, 18 February 2015
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	The difference to starting afterwards was astonishing. Before it was a bit sluggish at times. I'm getting half a volt or so more from the alternator too now as the cable for that was in a hell of a state. They can deteriorate quite badly.		The difference to starting afterwards was astonishing. Before it was a bit sluggish at times. I'm getting half a volt or so more from the alternator too now as the cable for that was in a hell of a state. They can deteriorate quite badly.


			See also "upgrading power to dash": http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_battery_to_dash

CovKid: /* Replacing cables */

2014-06-24T18:48:35Z

Replacing cables

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:48, 24 June 2014
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	Then rub some flux over the exposed copper cable, slide the ring connector on, warm up with a small blowtorch that jewellers use these days, and run the solder in. Its important not to do this vertically though or you run the risk of running too much solder in which can work its way too far down the cable. Try to monitor the amount of solder you're using as it will keep taking it by capillary action if you don't. You don't want the cable to soak up too much, cool, and become inflexible.		Then rub some flux over the exposed copper cable, slide the ring connector on, warm up with a small blowtorch that jewellers use these days, and run the solder in. Its important not to do this vertically though or you run the risk of running too much solder in which can work its way too far down the cable. Try to monitor the amount of solder you're using as it will keep taking it by capillary action if you don't. You don't want the cable to soak up too much, cool, and become inflexible.

	Once cool, just use some shrink tubing to keep out air and water - remembering to slide the shrink tubing on BEFORE putting the ring connector on.		Once cool, just use some shrink tubing to keep out air and water - remembering to slide the shrink tubing on BEFORE putting the ring connector on. Ring connectors are not cheap but you can make your own fairly easily if you follow this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpFb_Yxl_hA


	The difference to starting afterwards was astonishing. Before it was a bit sluggish at times. I'm getting half a volt or so more from the alternator too now as the cable for that was in a hell of a state. They can deteriorate quite badly.		The difference to starting afterwards was astonishing. Before it was a bit sluggish at times. I'm getting half a volt or so more from the alternator too now as the cable for that was in a hell of a state. They can deteriorate quite badly.

CovKid: /* Replacing cables */

2014-06-22T07:44:20Z

Replacing cables

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:44, 22 June 2014
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	Looking underneath, at the bottom of the pic (below) you can see the two thick cables entering the picture from the bottom - to the starter under the nut - one goes to the alternator and the other to battery. Its important to leave enough room for these cables without stretching them but also routed so they don't foul anything underneath.		Looking underneath, at the bottom of the pic (below) you can see the two thick cables entering the picture from the bottom - to the starter under the nut - one goes to the alternator and the other to battery. Its important to leave enough room for these cables without stretching them but also routed so they don't foul anything underneath.

	Running the cable to the battery ended up being a cat & mouse affair. I couldn't be bothered to pull out the old one until such time as I have the vehicle on a proper lift so snipped ends off and ran the new cable as near to exiting run as I could with cable ties until I reached the battery terminal. Believe me, you'll easily run four metres if you go via existing route - less if you ran through rear bulkhead (with grommets) and direct to battery inside. Up to you on that - see what works best. ~~Onbviously shorter~~ is ~~better where possible~~ but your interior may make this impossible.		Running the cable to the battery ended up being a cat & mouse affair. I couldn't be bothered to pull out the old one until such time as I have the vehicle on a proper lift so snipped ends off and ran the new cable as near to exiting run as I could with cable ties until I reached the battery terminal. Believe me, you'll easily run four metres if you go via existing route - less if you ran through rear bulkhead (with grommets) and direct to battery inside. Up to you on that - see what works best. A short run is preferred but your interior may make this impossible.

	[[File:cab5x.jpg]]		[[File:cab5x.jpg]]
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	In above photo you'll notice I dispensed with the original copper tube (or ferule) connector that used to be on the end of battery cable. I felt the connection I had was a good one and it didn't need one but others may want to reinstate it. Stacking copper washers may achieve the same to be honest.		In above photo you'll notice I dispensed with the original copper tube (or ferule) connector that used to be on the end of battery cable. I felt the connection I had was a good one and it didn't need one but others may want to reinstate it. Stacking copper washers may achieve the same to be honest.

	Photo below gives you some idea of how chunky the new cables are.		Photo below gives you some idea of how chunky the new cables are. Its about 1cm across.

	[[File:Ringterm1a.jpg]]		[[File:Ringterm1a.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing cables */

2014-06-22T07:41:39Z

Replacing cables

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:41, 22 June 2014
Line 46:		Line 46:
	Photo 4: ''On this alternator, I was able to connect using a ring connector and chunky cable''		Photo 4: ''On this alternator, I was able to connect using a ring connector and chunky cable''

	Looking underneath, at the bottom of the pic (below) you can see the two thick cables on the starter - one to the alternator and the other to battery. Its important to leave enough room for these cables without stretching them but also routed so they don't foul anything underneath.		Looking underneath, at the bottom of the pic (below) you can see the two thick cables entering the picture from the bottom - to the starter under the nut - one goes to the alternator and the other to battery. Its important to leave enough room for these cables without stretching them but also routed so they don't foul anything underneath.

	Running the cable to the battery ended up being a cat & mouse affair. I couldn't be bothered to pull out the old one until such time as I have the vehicle on a proper lift so snipped ends off and ran the new cable as near to exiting run as I could with cable ties until I reached the battery terminal. Believe me, you'll easily run four metres if you go via existing route - less if you ran through rear bulkhead (with grommets) and direct to battery inside. Up to you on that - see what works best.		Running the cable to the battery ended up being a cat & mouse affair. I couldn't be bothered to pull out the old one until such time as I have the vehicle on a proper lift so snipped ends off and ran the new cable as near to exiting run as I could with cable ties until I reached the battery terminal. Believe me, you'll easily run four metres if you go via existing route - less if you ran through rear bulkhead (with grommets) and direct to battery inside. Up to you on that - see what works best. Onbviously shorter is better where possible but your interior may make this impossible.

	[[File:cab5x.jpg]]		[[File:cab5x.jpg]]