VW Electrics battery to dash - Revision history

CovKid: /* Upgrading power to dash and headlights */

2016-11-07T19:09:33Z

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:09, 7 November 2016
Line 3:		Line 3:
	==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==		==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==

	There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it and unlike other so-called 'professional' installs and kits I've seen, bypasses the fusebox feed completely. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.		There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it and unlike other so-called 'professional' installs and kits I've seen, bypasses the fusebox feed completely to minimise voltage drops. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.

	First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.		First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.

CovKid: /* Upgrading power to dash and headlights */

2016-11-07T19:09:03Z

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:09, 7 November 2016
Line 3:		Line 3:
	==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==		==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==

	There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it and unlike other so-called 'professional' installs and kits I've seen, bypasses the fusebox feed. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.		There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it and unlike other so-called 'professional' installs and kits I've seen, bypasses the fusebox feed completely. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.

	First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.		First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.

CovKid: /* Upgrading power to dash and headlights */

2016-11-07T19:08:31Z

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:08, 7 November 2016
Line 3:		Line 3:
	==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==		==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==

	There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it and unlike other 'professional installs I've seen, bypasses the fusebox feed. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.		There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it and unlike other so-called 'professional' installs and kits I've seen, bypasses the fusebox feed. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.

	First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.		First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.

CovKid: /* Upgrading power to dash and headlights */

2016-11-07T19:07:51Z

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:07, 7 November 2016
Line 3:		Line 3:
	==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==		==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==

	There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.		There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it and unlike other 'professional installs I've seen, bypasses the fusebox feed. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.

	First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.		First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.

CovKid: /* Upgrading power to dash and headlights */

2016-03-25T11:17:34Z

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:17, 25 March 2016
Line 5:		Line 5:
	There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.		There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.

	First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but ~~and~~ can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.		First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.

	More to the point, it is not unusual for the original 6mm feed to actually get warm or even hot, and like any resistor, a hot wire is soaking up power and that means less volts for everything else - including lights. Using relays is unlikely to help either unless you at least double the existing cable capacity to start with. In fact, some relays can create a greater (albeit small) voltage drop than a big switch. Fitting relays with no other modifications is a waste of time frankly, although it does take the load off the headlight switch. So, rather than mess with the 6mm stuff, the easiest solution is to fit a new supplementary cable back to the battery with marine-quality junction boxes that can meet the demands of all the power-hungry stuff, take the load off the existing fusebox and put a bit of sparkle back into the lights. The original 6mm cable can then be left to power the lighter stuff.		More to the point, it is not unusual for the original 6mm feed to actually get warm or even hot, and like any resistor, a hot wire is soaking up power and that means less volts for everything else - including lights. Using relays is unlikely to help either unless you at least double the existing cable capacity to start with. In fact, some relays can create a greater (albeit small) voltage drop than a big switch. Fitting relays with no other modifications is a waste of time frankly, although it does take the load off the headlight switch. So, rather than mess with the 6mm stuff, the easiest solution is to fit a new supplementary cable back to the battery with marine-quality junction boxes that can meet the demands of all the power-hungry stuff, take the load off the existing fusebox and put a bit of sparkle back into the lights. The original 6mm cable can then be left to power the lighter stuff.

CovKid: /* Upgrading power to dash and headlights */

2016-03-25T11:16:38Z

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:16, 25 March 2016
Line 5:		Line 5:
	There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.		There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.

	The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but ~~is somewhat modest~~ and can quickly be put under strain with ~~all~~ the upgrades we tend to fit these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. ~~Its~~ akin to sucking treacle through a straw.		First of all, a little about how things are as standard. The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but and can quickly be put under strain with the upgrades we tend to fit almost as standard these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Supply to the front is akin to sucking treacle through a straw.

	More to the point, it is not unusual for the original 6mm feed to actually get warm or even hot, and a hot wire is soaking up power and that means less volts for everything else - including lights. Using relays is unlikely to help either unless you at least double the existing cable capacity to start with. In fact, some relays can create a greater (albeit small) voltage drop than a big switch. Fitting relays with no other modifications is a waste of time frankly, although it does take the load off the headlight switch. ~~Rather~~ than mess with the 6mm stuff, ~~its simpler~~ to fit a new supplementary cable back to the battery with marine-quality junction boxes that can meet the demands of all the power-hungry stuff ~~and~~ take the load off the fusebox. The original 6mm cable can then be left to power the lighter stuff.		More to the point, it is not unusual for the original 6mm feed to actually get warm or even hot, and like any resistor, a hot wire is soaking up power and that means less volts for everything else - including lights. Using relays is unlikely to help either unless you at least double the existing cable capacity to start with. In fact, some relays can create a greater (albeit small) voltage drop than a big switch. Fitting relays with no other modifications is a waste of time frankly, although it does take the load off the headlight switch. So, rather than mess with the 6mm stuff, the easiest solution is to fit a new supplementary cable back to the battery with marine-quality junction boxes that can meet the demands of all the power-hungry stuff, take the load off the existing fusebox and put a bit of sparkle back into the lights. The original 6mm cable can then be left to power the lighter stuff.

	This project assumes that you've already upgraded the main cables from alternator to starter to battery (see: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_main_cables ) - if not, do that first. Its important to have a good skeleton supply throughout. You should also increase the quality of any earthing. A new thick cable (at least equal value to what you're using for the positive cable) from the body of the starter to chassis is recommended. If your battery is underneath one of the front seats, you can follow these instructions as they are. If your battery is in the engine bay, you can route accordingly and it may suit you better to mount your junction box there. However, it still makes sense to mount a junction box inside the vehicle and under a front seat is as good as any place.		This project assumes that you've already upgraded the main cables from alternator to starter to battery (see: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_main_cables ) - if not, do that first. Its important to have a really good skeleton supply throughout. You should also increase the quality of any earthing. A new thick cable (at least equal value to what you're using for the positive cable) from the body of the starter to chassis is recommended. If your battery is underneath one of the front seats, you can follow these instructions as they are. If your battery is in the engine bay, you can route accordingly and it may suit you better to mount your junction box there. However, it still makes sense to mount a junction box inside the vehicle and under a front seat is as good as any place.

	Firstly, if you reorganise things properly, you'll lose the mutitude of extra cables that can end up fastened to the battery positive terminal. Most campers seem to end up like this with several cables crammed together at the battery which can create the potential for sparks/shorts between other things - particularly the underside of the seat. Whilst you can lay carpet across etc, it is not ideal connecting cables like this and it all starts to get messy and unreliable once you've removed the battery several times. Its therefore better to relocate these extra cables in a secure junction box and only have the '''one''' single cable to battery positive. From the junction, you can run a new thicker cable to another junction box under the dash.		Firstly, if you reorganise things properly, you'll lose the mutitude of extra cables that can end up fastened to the battery positive terminal. Most campers seem to end up like this with several cables crammed together at the battery which can create the potential for sparks/shorts between other things - particularly the underside of the seat. Whilst you can lay carpet across etc, it is not ideal connecting cables like this and it all starts to get messy and unreliable once you've removed the battery several times. Its therefore better to relocate these extra cables in a secure junction box and only have the '''one''' single cable to battery positive. From the junction, you can run a new thicker cable to another junction box under the dash.

CovKid: /* Conclusions */

2016-03-25T09:01:09Z

Conclusions

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:01, 25 March 2016
Line 61:		Line 61:
	The best way to route the cable would be underneath the vehicle, suitably tied up out the way (always use grommets on any holes you make) and bring it up behind dash (big red cable pictured above) through one of the existing grommets and ideally as short a run as possible. You could run it inside but its awkward to hide and not ideal under carpets! From there (with fuses) you can supply headlights or run all the heavy stuff like rad fan & blower etc and leave the existing fusebox running on the 6mm stuff for low-draw items or even install an extra mini fusebox - up to you.		The best way to route the cable would be underneath the vehicle, suitably tied up out the way (always use grommets on any holes you make) and bring it up behind dash (big red cable pictured above) through one of the existing grommets and ideally as short a run as possible. You could run it inside but its awkward to hide and not ideal under carpets! From there (with fuses) you can supply headlights or run all the heavy stuff like rad fan & blower etc and leave the existing fusebox running on the 6mm stuff for low-draw items or even install an extra mini fusebox - up to you.

	==Conclusions==		==Conclusions==

	'''Its worth including the thoughts of member Ghost123UK here as they may help you understand 'load'. When you're running a great many ancilleries, it can be bigger than you might think. As he rightly points out:'''		If you need an overview of voltage drop, see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMWvu7RV8qs

			'''Its also worth including the thoughts of member Ghost123UK here as they may help you understand 'load'. When you're running a great many ancilleries, it can be bigger than you might think. As he rightly points out:'''

	"If a cable is getting warm it is certainly using up some of the power. You could work it out quite easily - if you really wanted to. Measure the current flowing with "every thing on" (everything fed from the dash feed cable that is), Now measure the voltage at the battery, subtract from that the voltage at the other end."		"If a cable is getting warm it is certainly using up some of the power. You could work it out quite easily - if you really wanted to. Measure the current flowing with "every thing on" (everything fed from the dash feed cable that is), Now measure the voltage at the battery, subtract from that the voltage at the other end."

CovKid: /* Upgrading power to dash and headlights */

2016-03-25T08:59:45Z

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:59, 25 March 2016
Line 7:		Line 7:
	The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but is somewhat modest and can quickly be put under strain with all the upgrades we tend to fit these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Its akin to sucking treacle through a straw.		The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but is somewhat modest and can quickly be put under strain with all the upgrades we tend to fit these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Its akin to sucking treacle through a straw.

	More to the point, it is not unusual for the original 6mm feed to actually get warm or even hot, and a hot wire is soaking up power and that means less volts for everything else - including lights. ~~Certainly if you want~~ to ~~fit headlamp relays,~~ you~~'ll need to~~ at least double the existing cable capacity ~~otherwise~~ the ~~relays are wasted~~. Rather than mess with the 6mm stuff, its simpler to fit a new supplementary cable back to the battery with marine-quality junction boxes that can meet the demands of all the power-hungry stuff and take the load off the fusebox. The original 6mm cable can then be left to power the lighter stuff.		More to the point, it is not unusual for the original 6mm feed to actually get warm or even hot, and a hot wire is soaking up power and that means less volts for everything else - including lights. Using relays is unlikely to help either unless you at least double the existing cable capacity to start with. In fact, some relays can create a greater (albeit small) voltage drop than a big switch. Fitting relays with no other modifications is a waste of time frankly, although it does take the load off the headlight switch. Rather than mess with the 6mm stuff, its simpler to fit a new supplementary cable back to the battery with marine-quality junction boxes that can meet the demands of all the power-hungry stuff and take the load off the fusebox. The original 6mm cable can then be left to power the lighter stuff.

	This project assumes that you've already upgraded the main cables from alternator to starter to battery (see: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_main_cables ) - if not, do that first. Its important to have a good skeleton supply throughout. You should also increase the quality of any earthing. A new thick cable (at least equal value to what you're using for the positive cable) from the body of the starter to chassis is recommended. If your battery is underneath one of the front seats, you can follow these instructions as they are. If your battery is in the engine bay, you can route accordingly and it may suit you better to mount your junction box there. However, it still makes sense to mount a junction box inside the vehicle and under a front seat is as good as any place.		This project assumes that you've already upgraded the main cables from alternator to starter to battery (see: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_main_cables ) - if not, do that first. Its important to have a good skeleton supply throughout. You should also increase the quality of any earthing. A new thick cable (at least equal value to what you're using for the positive cable) from the body of the starter to chassis is recommended. If your battery is underneath one of the front seats, you can follow these instructions as they are. If your battery is in the engine bay, you can route accordingly and it may suit you better to mount your junction box there. However, it still makes sense to mount a junction box inside the vehicle and under a front seat is as good as any place.

CovKid: /* Upgrading power to dash and headlights */

2015-08-01T08:09:53Z

Upgrading power to dash and headlights

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:09, 1 August 2015
Line 3:		Line 3:
	==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==		==Upgrading power to dash and headlights==

	There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.		There could be several reasons why you might want to upgrade the power cable to dash, ie adding extra lights etc, but for anyone wanting bright headlights (by default) or needing a really good connection at the dash without voltage losses, this is the ultimate heavy-duty way to do it. I don't for a minute suggest that this is the only way, but this method does make a neat job of it and solves a lot of problems along the way for relatively low cost.

	The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but is somewhat modest and can quickly be put under strain with all the upgrades we tend to fit these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Its akin to sucking treacle through a straw.		The existing (stock) 6mm cable to the ignition switch and fusebox in the T25 (Vanagon) was 'just' adequate at the time the vehicle was in production, but is somewhat modest and can quickly be put under strain with all the upgrades we tend to fit these days, particularly if the hot air blower and rad fan are drawing more than when they were new. Its akin to sucking treacle through a straw.

CovKid: /* Materials */

2015-08-01T08:07:28Z

Materials

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:07, 1 August 2015
Line 38:		Line 38:
	Fitting a box like this means all those annoying wires that originally terminated at positive terminal can now be fastened inside the terminal block out of harms way, with just one to starter battery. It makes removing the battery a lot simpler too. I use quick-release clamps on mine.		Fitting a box like this means all those annoying wires that originally terminated at positive terminal can now be fastened inside the terminal block out of harms way, with just one to starter battery. It makes removing the battery a lot simpler too. I use quick-release clamps on mine.

	For reliability, you'll need to source good quality connectors for this - soldered 'Copper Tube Terminals' (as below) - '''not''' conventional crimp ring connectors, and use proper shrink tubing:		For reliability, you'll need to source good quality connectors for this - soldered 'Copper Tube Terminals' (as below) - '''not''' conventional crimp ring connectors, and use proper shrink tubing - NOT insulating tape: