VW Electrics Starter motor - Revision history

CovKid: /* Typical fixes */

2015-11-23T20:37:57Z

Typical fixes

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:37, 23 November 2015
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	Covkid:		Covkid:

			'''Quick video.'''

			https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNKSeAAd3rk

	'''Intermittent starter spin although solenoid still clicks.'''		'''Intermittent starter spin although solenoid still clicks.'''

CovKid: /* Typical fixes */

2015-05-06T11:38:14Z

Typical fixes

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:38, 6 May 2015
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	Bad brushes, poor battery connection and dying battery can cause similar symptoms so don't assume anything!		Bad brushes, poor battery connection and dying battery can cause similar symptoms so don't assume anything!

			'''Poor main cables''' Few T25s have good main cables if they have not been replaced since the vehicle was new. This can impact both starting and charging.

			See: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_main_cables

	==Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself==		==Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself==

CovKid: /* Typical fixes */

2015-05-06T11:23:40Z

Typical fixes

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:23, 6 May 2015
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	'''Intermittent starter spin although solenoid still clicks.'''		'''Intermittent starter spin although solenoid still clicks.'''

	Its likely (if connections at battery and at starter motor are good) to be bushes inside starter - ie wearing out. As they do, commutator gets dirty, sometimes brushes contact (and it spins) and other times they don't (particularly if brushes are on their last legs) and nothing happens. Its possible to fit new ones yourself thereby saving £100+ and spending about £7 instead but you'll need a gas-powered soldering iron to get enough heat to solder on the new ones. Lots on Youtube regarding soldering brushes on starter motors.		Its likely (if connections at battery and at starter motor are good) to be bushes inside starter - ie wearing out. As they do, commutator gets dirty, sometimes brushes contact (and it spins) and other times they don't (particularly if brushes are on their last legs) and nothing happens. Its possible to fit new ones yourself thereby saving £100+ and spending about £7 instead but you'll need a gas-powered soldering iron to get enough heat to solder on the new ones. Lots on Youtube regarding soldering brushes on starter motors. Flux suitable for external use (ie on steel) is recommended although I managed reasonably OK with the small five core solder (to a degree).

	'''Totally dead starter.'''		'''Totally dead starter.'''

CovKid: /* Typical fixes */

2015-05-06T11:20:57Z

Typical fixes

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:20, 6 May 2015
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	'''Weak starter.'''		'''Weak starter.'''

	The oilite bush which the end of the starter runs in, can cause starter to bind, but shouldn't stop it trying to spin. If you do above, fit a new bush anyway - they cost pennies but can take an age to do due to old one being stubborn to get out. Bad brushes, poor battery connection and dying battery can cause similar symptoms.		The oilite bush which the end of the starter runs in, can cause starter to bind, but shouldn't stop it trying to spin. If you do above, fit a new bush anyway - they cost pennies but can take an age to do due to old one being stubborn to get out. A suitably sized rawl bolt is reckoned to be the easiest method.

			Bad brushes, poor battery connection and dying battery can cause similar symptoms so don't assume anything!

	==Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself==		==Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself==

CovKid: /* Typical fixes */

2015-05-06T11:15:26Z

Typical fixes

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:15, 6 May 2015
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	Covkid:		Covkid:

	'''Intermittent starter spin ~~but~~ solenoid clicks.'''		'''Intermittent starter spin although solenoid still clicks.'''

	Its likely (if connections at battery and at starter motor are good) to be bushes inside starter - ie wearing out. As they do, commutator gets dirty, sometimes brushes contact (and it spins) and other times they don't (particularly if brushes are on their last legs) and nothing happens. Its possible to fit new ones yourself thereby saving £100+ and spending about £7 instead but you'll need a gas-powered soldering iron to get enough heat to solder on the new ones. Lots on Youtube regarding soldering brushes on starter motors.		Its likely (if connections at battery and at starter motor are good) to be bushes inside starter - ie wearing out. As they do, commutator gets dirty, sometimes brushes contact (and it spins) and other times they don't (particularly if brushes are on their last legs) and nothing happens. Its possible to fit new ones yourself thereby saving £100+ and spending about £7 instead but you'll need a gas-powered soldering iron to get enough heat to solder on the new ones. Lots on Youtube regarding soldering brushes on starter motors.

CovKid: /* Typical fixes */

2015-05-06T11:14:54Z

Typical fixes

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:14, 6 May 2015
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	Its likely (if connections at battery and at starter motor are good) to be bushes inside starter - ie wearing out. As they do, commutator gets dirty, sometimes brushes contact (and it spins) and other times they don't (particularly if brushes are on their last legs) and nothing happens. Its possible to fit new ones yourself thereby saving £100+ and spending about £7 instead but you'll need a gas-powered soldering iron to get enough heat to solder on the new ones. Lots on Youtube regarding soldering brushes on starter motors.		Its likely (if connections at battery and at starter motor are good) to be bushes inside starter - ie wearing out. As they do, commutator gets dirty, sometimes brushes contact (and it spins) and other times they don't (particularly if brushes are on their last legs) and nothing happens. Its possible to fit new ones yourself thereby saving £100+ and spending about £7 instead but you'll need a gas-powered soldering iron to get enough heat to solder on the new ones. Lots on Youtube regarding soldering brushes on starter motors.

	Heres the end removed from mine. ~~In my case it~~ was the braided cable. ~~That~~ cause the starter to be intermittent as it weakens ~~but once it~~ breaks, both solenoid and starter will go dead. ~~My suggestion is~~ pop the end cap off and take a look - the problem should be evident.		'''Totally dead starter.'''

			Heres the end removed from mine. The failure was the braided cable which can be resoldered or replaced. Faulty braid may cause the starter to be intermittent to begin with but as it weakens and finally breaks, both solenoid and starter will go dead as the circuit will be broken. To verify, pop the end cap off and take a look - the problem should be evident.

	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNKSeAAd3rk		https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNKSeAAd3rk

	~~The oilite bush which the end of the~~ starter ~~runs in, can cause starter to bind, but shouldn~~'~~t stop it trying to spin. If you do above, fit a new bush anyway - they cost pennies but can take an age to do due to old one being stubborn to get out.~~		'''Weak starter.'''

			The oilite bush which the end of the starter runs in, can cause starter to bind, but shouldn't stop it trying to spin. If you do above, fit a new bush anyway - they cost pennies but can take an age to do due to old one being stubborn to get out. Bad brushes, poor battery connection and dying battery can cause similar symptoms.

	==Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself==		==Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself==

CovKid: /* Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself */

2015-05-06T11:11:36Z

Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:11, 6 May 2015
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	'''NB.''' Locate the source of the burning smell ASAP. Could be the starter motor armature winding insulation getting hot, or more seriously a bad earth or damaged cable. This is probably No. 1 on your list, look for smoke and check the battery connections are good (clean and use Nocrode or vaseline on terminals - and be careful with shorts/sparks when a battery has been rapidly discharged, fumes, explosion).		'''NB.''' Locate the source of the burning smell ASAP. Could be the starter motor armature winding insulation getting hot, or more seriously a bad earth or damaged cable. This is probably No. 1 on your list, look for smoke and check the battery connections are good (clean and use Nocrode or vaseline on terminals - and be careful with shorts/sparks when a battery has been rapidly discharged, fumes, explosion).

			==Typical fixes==

			Covkid:

			'''Intermittent starter spin but solenoid clicks.'''

			Its likely (if connections at battery and at starter motor are good) to be bushes inside starter - ie wearing out. As they do, commutator gets dirty, sometimes brushes contact (and it spins) and other times they don't (particularly if brushes are on their last legs) and nothing happens. Its possible to fit new ones yourself thereby saving £100+ and spending about £7 instead but you'll need a gas-powered soldering iron to get enough heat to solder on the new ones. Lots on Youtube regarding soldering brushes on starter motors.

			Heres the end removed from mine. In my case it was the braided cable. That cause the starter to be intermittent as it weakens but once it breaks, both solenoid and starter will go dead. My suggestion is pop the end cap off and take a look - the problem should be evident.

			https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNKSeAAd3rk

			The oilite bush which the end of the starter runs in, can cause starter to bind, but shouldn't stop it trying to spin. If you do above, fit a new bush anyway - they cost pennies but can take an age to do due to old one being stubborn to get out.


	==Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself==		==Typical fixes where it's NOT the starter motor itself==

CovKid: /* Fitting a relay to starter */

2015-02-27T00:08:12Z

Fitting a relay to starter

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:08, 27 February 2015
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	==Fitting a relay to starter==		==Fitting a relay to starter==

	You can, over time, get appreciable voltage drop which means the starter solenoid doesn't pull in and make a great contact.		You can, over time, get appreciable voltage drop which means the starter solenoid doesn't pull in and make a great contact. This can cause intermittent, unreliable or even slow starting.

	Heres how to add one: http://thelatebay.com/index.php?wiki/hot-start-relay/ - this also reduces the load on your ignition switch. As stated, if relay ever fails, you can reinstate the small blue wire back to its original position on starter to get you going.		Heres how to add one: http://thelatebay.com/index.php?wiki/hot-start-relay/ - this also reduces the load on your ignition switch. As stated, if relay ever fails, you can reinstate the small blue wire back to its original position on starter to get you going.

CovKid: /* Fitting a relay to starter */

2015-02-27T00:07:15Z

Fitting a relay to starter

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:07, 27 February 2015
Line 59:		Line 59:
	You can, over time, get appreciable voltage drop which means the starter solenoid doesn't pull in and make a great contact.		You can, over time, get appreciable voltage drop which means the starter solenoid doesn't pull in and make a great contact.

	Heres how to add one: http://thelatebay.com/index.php?wiki/hot-start-relay/		Heres how to add one: http://thelatebay.com/index.php?wiki/hot-start-relay/ - this also reduces the load on your ignition switch. As stated, if relay ever fails, you can reinstate the small blue wire back to its original position on starter to get you going.

CovKid at 00:05, 27 February 2015

2015-02-27T00:05:33Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:05, 27 February 2015
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	'''Meggles:''' Tried the substitute earth.. nothing. Fortunately the starter packed up altogether so it was easy to check everything. Intermittent faults are such a nightmare :roll: Anyway, I removed starter, '''turned out to be a very badly corroded connection from battery+ side to solenoid'''.		'''Meggles:''' Tried the substitute earth.. nothing. Fortunately the starter packed up altogether so it was easy to check everything. Intermittent faults are such a nightmare :roll: Anyway, I removed starter, '''turned out to be a very badly corroded connection from battery+ side to solenoid'''.
	All is well now and no new starter to buy! Cleaned and lubed all other connections as a precaution.		All is well now and no new starter to buy! Cleaned and lubed all other connections as a precaution.

			==Fitting a relay to starter==

			You can, over time, get appreciable voltage drop which means the starter solenoid doesn't pull in and make a great contact.

			Heres how to add one: http://thelatebay.com/index.php?wiki/hot-start-relay/