Turbo - Re-installing - Revision history

Hacksawbob at 21:59, 1 May 2010

2010-05-01T21:59:18Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:59, 1 May 2010
Line 13:		Line 13:
	It's a moot point whether to use any exhaust paste or not, but if so, must be very thin, away from edge of exahust ports (Don't want the stuff goibng through the turbine) and the joint must be pulled up fast, before it cures.		It's a moot point whether to use any exhaust paste or not, but if so, must be very thin, away from edge of exahust ports (Don't want the stuff goibng through the turbine) and the joint must be pulled up fast, before it cures.

	This turbo/exh. flange uses four very expensive set-screws. They are 12 point, M-10 heat resisting flange-head screws (about £13/each!) If you need to replace them, grade 12.9 cap-head socket screws might be good enough. Despite the qaulity, they can shear when being removed after a number of years. Ensure good second hand ones or equivalent grade socket cap-heads are used as replacements. Clean old ones up well, can use copper-slip on the threads but not under the heads. If the heads are damaged		This turbo/exh. flange uses four very expensive set-screws. They are 12 point, M-10 heat resisting flange-head screws (Mine needed a 12mm 12 point socket Hacksawbob) (about £13/each!) If you need to replace them, grade 12.9 cap-head socket screws might be good enough. Despite the qaulity, they can shear when being removed after a number of years. Ensure good second hand ones or equivalent grade socket cap-heads are used as replacements. Clean old ones up well, can use copper-slip on the threads but not under the heads. If the heads are damaged

	'''Torques''' - AFAIK, about 33~36 lbf-ft (circa 45 N-m) is the right figure for the four flange-head screws, pulled up in stages.		'''Torques''' - AFAIK, about 33~36 lbf-ft (circa 45 N-m) is the right figure for the four flange-head screws, pulled up in stages.

HarryMann at 00:29, 20 May 2007

2007-05-20T00:29:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:29, 20 May 2007
Line 3:		Line 3:
	=== Exhaust manifold to Turbo mating face ===		=== Exhaust manifold to Turbo mating face ===
	This is an important joint, which does not take a gasket from new, so has to be clean, flat and true. They won't be of course, on the one that's come off. There might even large flakes of rust between the two.		This is an important joint, which does not take a gasket from new, so has to be clean, flat and true. They won't be of course, on the one that's come off. There might even large flakes of rust between the two.
	Using an engineers surface scraper [~~linkl~~], carefully remove any rust flakes from both surfaces.		Using an engineers surface scraper [[General Engineering Scrapers]], carefully remove any rust flakes from both surfaces.

	To ensure a clean and flat surface, follow this link: [[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]		To ensure a clean and flat surface, follow this link: [[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]

HarryMann: /* Exhaust manifold to Turbo mating face */

2007-05-20T00:26:31Z

Exhaust manifold to Turbo mating face

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:26, 20 May 2007
Line 15:		Line 15:
	This turbo/exh. flange uses four very expensive set-screws. They are 12 point, M-10 heat resisting flange-head screws (about £13/each!) If you need to replace them, grade 12.9 cap-head socket screws might be good enough. Despite the qaulity, they can shear when being removed after a number of years. Ensure good second hand ones or equivalent grade socket cap-heads are used as replacements. Clean old ones up well, can use copper-slip on the threads but not under the heads. If the heads are damaged		This turbo/exh. flange uses four very expensive set-screws. They are 12 point, M-10 heat resisting flange-head screws (about £13/each!) If you need to replace them, grade 12.9 cap-head socket screws might be good enough. Despite the qaulity, they can shear when being removed after a number of years. Ensure good second hand ones or equivalent grade socket cap-heads are used as replacements. Clean old ones up well, can use copper-slip on the threads but not under the heads. If the heads are damaged

	'''Torques''' - AFAIK, about 33~38 lbf-ft (circa 45 N-m) is the right figure for the four ~~high tensile multi~~-~~point cap~~ head, pulled up ~~gently~~ in stages.		'''Torques''' - AFAIK, about 33~36 lbf-ft (circa 45 N-m) is the right figure for the four flange-head screws, pulled up in stages.

	'''Gotcha''' - You will find that is a good idea to mount the turbo's compressor inlet rubber moulding (with offset holes and smaller connection for the BOV hose) BEFORE fitting the turbo to the exhaust flange. Otherwise it is a fight you may end up losing... you may find that the fitting for the turbo inlet is perished or damaged, a nice wide hose-clip should help.		'''Gotcha''' - You will find that is a good idea to mount the turbo's compressor inlet rubber moulding (with offset holes and smaller connection for the BOV hose) BEFORE fitting the turbo to the exhaust flange. Otherwise it is a fight you may end up losing... you may find that the fitting for the turbo inlet is perished or damaged, a nice wide hose-clip should help.

	'''NB.''' Make sure the compressor outlet to engine inlet manifold hose, is insulated with a flexible ally 'concertina' hose and that both ends have a perfect gas-tight seal, using good quality hose-clips, but as always, never overtighten. Once it feels tight with a well-sized screwdriver and as long as it seems secure, leave it at that i.e. stop before the clip cuts into the hose.		'''NB.''' Make sure the compressor outlet to engine inlet manifold hose, is insulated with a flexible ally 'concertina' hose and that both ends have a perfect gas-tight seal, using good quality hose-clips, but as always, never overtighten. Once it feels tight with a well-sized screwdriver and as long as it seems secure, leave it at that i.e. stop before the clip cuts into the hose.


			The manifold should ideally have its heat-shield in place, to avoid heat-soaking both the turbo to inlet manifold hose and the compressor housing. Heat retained in the exhaust manifold will also put that bit more energy into the turbine.

HarryMann at 00:22, 20 May 2007

2007-05-20T00:22:03Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:22, 20 May 2007
Line 3:		Line 3:
	=== Exhaust manifold to Turbo mating face ===		=== Exhaust manifold to Turbo mating face ===
	This is an important joint, which does not take a gasket from new, so has to be clean, flat and true. They won't be of course, on the one that's come off. There might even large flakes of rust between the two.		This is an important joint, which does not take a gasket from new, so has to be clean, flat and true. They won't be of course, on the one that's come off. There might even large flakes of rust between the two.
	Using an engineers surface scraper [linkl], carefully remove any rust flakes ~~and detritus~~ from both surfaces.		Using an engineers surface scraper [linkl], carefully remove any rust flakes from both surfaces.

	To ensure a clean and flat surface, follow this link: [[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]		To ensure a clean and flat surface, follow this link: [[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
Line 9:		Line 9:
	Attempt the same with the manifold, but this time either have to use a file if on engine, or use an emery plate as in the link above.		Attempt the same with the manifold, but this time either have to use a file if on engine, or use an emery plate as in the link above.

	'''NB.''' It may be possible to get a very thin two layer stainless gasket, but should still be prepared well.		'''NB.''' It may be possible to get a very thin two layer stainless gasket, but should still be prepared as well as you can.

	It's a moot point whether to use any exhaust paste or not, but if so, must be very thin, away from edge of exahust ports and the joint must be pulled up fast, before it cures.		It's a moot point whether to use any exhaust paste or not, but if so, must be very thin, away from edge of exahust ports (Don't want the stuff goibng through the turbine) and the joint must be pulled up fast, before it cures.

	This turbo/exh. flange uses four very expensive set-screws. They are 12 point, M-10 ~~cap~~-head screws~~, grade 12.9 or better~~ (~~judging by the price,~~ £13/each!). ~~Even so~~, they can shear when being removed after a number of years. Ensure good second hand ones or equivalent grade socket cap-heads are used as replacements. Clean old ones up well, can use copper-slip on the threads but not under the heads. If the heads are damaged		This turbo/exh. flange uses four very expensive set-screws. They are 12 point, M-10 heat resisting flange-head screws (about £13/each!) If you need to replace them, grade 12.9 cap-head socket screws might be good enough. Despite the qaulity, they can shear when being removed after a number of years. Ensure good second hand ones or equivalent grade socket cap-heads are used as replacements. Clean old ones up well, can use copper-slip on the threads but not under the heads. If the heads are damaged

	'''Torques''' - AFAIK, about 33~38 lbf-ft (circa 45 N-m) is the right figure for the four high tensile multi-point cap head, pulled up gently in stages.		'''Torques''' - AFAIK, about 33~38 lbf-ft (circa 45 N-m) is the right figure for the four high tensile multi-point cap head, pulled up gently in stages.

HarryMann: /* Exh. Manifold to turbo mating face */

2006-12-30T00:36:08Z

Exh. Manifold to turbo mating face

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:36, 30 December 2006
Line 1:		Line 1:
	== A few tips on re-installing the diesel's turbo and manifolding ==		== A few tips on re-installing the diesel's turbo and manifolding ==

	=== ~~Exh. Manifold~~ to ~~turbo~~ mating face ===		=== Exhaust manifold to Turbo mating face ===
	This is an important joint, which does not take a gasket from new, so ~~have~~ to be clean, flat and true. They won't be of course, on the one that's come off. There might even large flakes of rust between the two.		This is an important joint, which does not take a gasket from new, so has to be clean, flat and true. They won't be of course, on the one that's come off. There might even large flakes of rust between the two.
	Using an engineers surface scraper [linkl], carefully remove any rust flakes and detritus from both surfaces.		Using an engineers surface scraper [linkl], carefully remove any rust flakes and detritus from both surfaces.

HarryMann: /* Exh. Manifold to turbo mating face */

2006-12-30T00:35:07Z

Exh. Manifold to turbo mating face

New page

== A few tips on re-installing the diesel's turbo and manifolding ==

=== Exh. Manifold to turbo mating face ===
This is an important joint, which does not take a gasket from new, so have to be clean, flat and true. They won't be of course, on the one that's come off. There might even large flakes of rust between the two.
Using an engineers surface scraper [linkl], carefully remove any rust flakes and detritus from both surfaces.

To ensure a clean and flat surface, follow this link: [[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]

Attempt the same with the manifold, but this time either have to use a file if on engine, or use an emery plate as in the link above.

'''NB.''' It may be possible to get a very thin two layer stainless gasket, but should still be prepared well.

It's a moot point whether to use any exhaust paste or not, but if so, must be very thin, away from edge of exahust ports and the joint must be pulled up fast, before it cures.

This turbo/exh. flange uses four very expensive set-screws. They are 12 point, M-10 cap-head screws, grade 12.9 or better (judging by the price, £13/each!). Even so, they can shear when being removed after a number of years. Ensure good second hand ones or equivalent grade socket cap-heads are used as replacements. Clean old ones up well, can use copper-slip on the threads but not under the heads. If the heads are damaged

'''Torques''' - AFAIK, about 33~38 lbf-ft (circa 45 N-m) is the right figure for the four high tensile multi-point cap head, pulled up gently in stages.

'''Gotcha''' - You will find that is a good idea to mount the turbo's compressor inlet rubber moulding (with offset holes and smaller connection for the BOV hose) BEFORE fitting the turbo to the exhaust flange. Otherwise it is a fight you may end up losing... you may find that the fitting for the turbo inlet is perished or damaged, a nice wide hose-clip should help.

'''NB.''' Make sure the compressor outlet to engine inlet manifold hose, is insulated with a flexible ally 'concertina' hose and that both ends have a perfect gas-tight seal, using good quality hose-clips, but as always, never overtighten. Once it feels tight with a well-sized screwdriver and as long as it seems secure, leave it at that i.e. stop before the clip cuts into the hose.