Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts - Revision history

HarryMann: /* Drilling out */

2013-10-09T23:07:32Z

Drilling out

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:07, 9 October 2013
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	If you do break a drill, it may still be possible to loosen and wiggle it out - but don't count on it!		If you do break a drill, it may still be possible to loosen and wiggle it out - but don't count on it!

			'''NB.''' HSCO (cobalt) jobber drills make drilling out old, heat hardened or rusty studs and bolts much easier. A worthwhile investment say, a 3 or 3.2 and a 4.4 and 6.8 for an M8

	Approx. thread core size is tapping drill size, don't exceed, see linked item:-		Approx. thread core size is tapping drill size, don't exceed, see linked item:-

Hacksawbob: /* Flame Heat or MIG nut welding */

2011-08-01T07:19:33Z

Flame Heat or MIG nut welding

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:19, 1 August 2011
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	Oxy-acetylene equipment isn't something you usually find in the home mechanics garage, especially now with both expense of it and the H&S police! However, small cannister propane burners are available, some giving quite a controlled and fine flame. So if you do have a source of high heat available, or can take the part to one, getting the seized nut or bolt almost cherry red (safely), then undoing when cooling is mostly succesful and being the quickest method, used routinely by professionals in garages and engineers workshops. Exhaust centres make regular use of this method.		Oxy-acetylene equipment isn't something you usually find in the home mechanics garage, especially now with both expense of it and the H&S police! However, small cannister propane burners are available, some giving quite a controlled and fine flame. So if you do have a source of high heat available, or can take the part to one, getting the seized nut or bolt almost cherry red (safely), then undoing when cooling is mostly succesful and being the quickest method, used routinely by professionals in garages and engineers workshops. Exhaust centres make regular use of this method.

			'''Hacksawbob'''
			I have used a small gas soldering iron successfully on a number of occasions http://www.maplin.co.uk/solderpro-50-gas-soldering-iron-kit-34956 these kits cost around £30-£40 pounds and are worth every penny in my eyes. propane blow torches are available for plumbing work but I have found them unwieldy and difficult to get exactly where you need it when working on brakes and engine parts without risking damage to rubber pipes etc. These pen sized blow torches get the flame right to the nut, bolt or nipple and I am using it as matter of course and any bolt after applying plus gas and leaving for an hour at least. It may seem like it takes longer but, if you plan in advance and put the gas on the day before you will improve your chances considerably that the nut will remove with about 1-2 minutes of heat and gentle but sustained pressure from a decent six sided ring or socket spanner.

	== Drifting/Punching/Shocking/Impact drivers ==		== Drifting/Punching/Shocking/Impact drivers ==

Hacksawbob: /* Penetrating oil then stillsons/molegrips */

2011-05-04T19:32:35Z

Penetrating oil then stillsons/molegrips

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:32, 4 May 2011
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	== Penetrating oil then stillsons/molegrips ==		== Penetrating oil then stillsons/molegrips ==

			For penetrating oil use plus gas or rustbuster. WD40 doesn't usually work as well.

	Drilling-out is often a last resort and although with practice and the right tools can be done succesfully pretty well 100% of the time, it is always preferable and frequently possible, to first try to remove a broken bolt or stud using any small part remaining proud (as little as 1/4" is often enough). If it's an exhaust manifold stud/bolt of course remove the manifold first to give a larger protruding length.		Drilling-out is often a last resort and although with practice and the right tools can be done succesfully pretty well 100% of the time, it is always preferable and frequently possible, to first try to remove a broken bolt or stud using any small part remaining proud (as little as 1/4" is often enough). If it's an exhaust manifold stud/bolt of course remove the manifold first to give a larger protruding length.

HarryMann: /* Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts */

2009-12-07T22:15:38Z

Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:15, 7 December 2009
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	== Helicoils and Timeserts (to be written)==		== Helicoils and Timeserts (to be written)==

	== Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts ==		== Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts, EZ-Grip ==


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	[http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i_explained.asp?hdID=12 Frosts Tech article on several fastener removal tools]		[http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i_explained.asp?hdID=12 Frosts Tech article on several fastener removal tools]

			[[General EZGrip]]

HarryMann: /* Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts */

2009-08-07T23:53:51Z

Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:53, 7 August 2009
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	[http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9195&frostProductName=Rust%20Buster%204fl.oz&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Others&frostubCatID= I've had some good results with Rust Buster] Eastwoods Item Code N150		[http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9195&frostProductName=Rust%20Buster%204fl.oz&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Others&frostubCatID= I've had some good results with Rust Buster] Eastwoods Item Code N150
	Maybe a couple of good results and lots of times not helped at all... think it depends on being very corroded rather than very tight (seized), the former may work, latter not.
			'''HM:'''Maybe a couple of good results and lots of times not helped at all... think it depends on being very corroded rather than very tight (seized), the former may work, latter not.

HarryMann: /* Spark or Wire Erosion */

2009-08-07T23:53:10Z

Spark or Wire Erosion

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:53, 7 August 2009
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	I removed just about every type of bolt, stud, tap and dowel from anything and everything.		I removed just about every type of bolt, stud, tap and dowel from anything and everything.

	-- Helicoils and Timeserts (to be written)--		== Helicoils and Timeserts (to be written)==

	== Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts ==		== Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts ==

HarryMann: /* Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts */

2009-08-07T23:52:26Z

Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:52, 7 August 2009
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	I did this for a living for a year or two along with wire eroding which works in the same way.		I did this for a living for a year or two along with wire eroding which works in the same way.
	I removed just about every type of bolt, stud, tap and dowel from anything and everything.		I removed just about every type of bolt, stud, tap and dowel from anything and everything.

			-- Helicoils and Timeserts (to be written)--

	== Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts ==		== Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts ==
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	[http://www.insulate.co.uk/helen/studremoval.htm also see]		[http://www.insulate.co.uk/helen/studremoval.htm also see]

	[http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm ~~also~~ see (annealing)]		[http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm Also see (annealing/hradening heat rustbusting methods)]


	~~-- Helicoils and Timeserts (to be written)--~~

	[http://www.insertsdirect.com/showStyles.asp?prodid=256395 Thread inserts]		[http://www.insertsdirect.com/showStyles.asp?prodid=256395 Thread inserts]

HarryMann: /* Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts */

2009-08-07T23:48:47Z

Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:48, 7 August 2009
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	[http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9285&frostProductName=Impact Impact stud remover (Frosts)]		[http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9285&frostProductName=Impact Impact stud remover (Frosts)]

			[http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i_explained.asp?hdID=12 Frosts Tech article on several fastener removal tools]

Hairyman: /* Drilling out */

2009-08-07T22:33:28Z

Drilling out

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:33, 7 August 2009
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	If looks dead centre, go a bit harder in same place or move the centre pop to true centre by angling punch and then finally righting again for last pop. Inspect and be happy it's as good as you can do...		If looks dead centre, go a bit harder in same place or move the centre pop to true centre by angling punch and then finally righting again for last pop. Inspect and be happy it's as good as you can do...

	Very sharp (newish) quality 1/8" (3mm) drill unless stud/bolt is smaller (those new boron ones are great, even the cheap Silverline ones)....		Very sharp (newish) quality 1/8" (3mm) drill unless stud/bolt is smaller (those new boron ones are great, even the cheap Silverline ones).... Cobalt drills are also v.good, but good sharp HSS drills have been used for years, just requires a bit more push to get it cutting in harder steel, and alwasy be aware of cutting speed, too fast or too slow is not as good as when it sits ther chipping nicely, so var speed a bit to find when it starts chipping nicely.)

	Drill in as far as bottom of stud (estimate) - dead straight - keep stopping and checking drill angle in both planes - don't rush - spit on drill to keep it cutting and cool. Paraffin is a good cutting agent, nearly as good as spit!		Drill in as far as bottom of stud (estimate) - dead straight - keep stopping and checking drill angle in both planes - don't rush - spit on drill to keep it cutting and cool. Paraffin is a good cutting agent, nearly as good as spit!

Hairyman at 22:30, 7 August 2009

2009-08-07T22:30:46Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:30, 7 August 2009
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	In my experience, the parralel extractors are the best for this job, but if you only have the screw type, and the hole is large enough, then they should suffice.		In my experience, the parralel extractors are the best for this job, but if you only have the screw type, and the hole is large enough, then they should suffice.

			== Spark or Wire Erosion ==

			'''windysurfer:''' There is always away to get a snapped stud or bolt out of a hole.

			I worked in engineering for years and used to use a spark eroder to remove broken bolts stud and even taps.
			'''Bud''' Would it not be cheaper to get a local engineering firm to erode your cylinder head stud out?
			Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to do.

			There a basic explanation at this link [http://www.sparkeroding.co.uk spark erosion]

			I did this for a living for a year or two along with wire eroding which works in the same way.
			I removed just about every type of bolt, stud, tap and dowel from anything and everything.

	== Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts ==		== Other Links, Rust Buster, thread inserts ==
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	'''HacksawBob:'''		'''HacksawBob:'''

	[http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9195&frostProductName=Rust%20Buster%204fl.oz&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Others&frostubCatID= I've had some good results with Rust Buster] ~~Esstwoods~~ Item Code N150		[http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9195&frostProductName=Rust%20Buster%204fl.oz&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Others&frostubCatID= I've had some good results with Rust Buster] Eastwoods Item Code N150
			Maybe a couple of good results and lots of times not helped at all... think it depends on being very corroded rather than very tight (seized), the former may work, latter not.
	~~So have I~~ (~~Harry~~)