Techniques - Removing rusty screws - Revision history

HarryMann: /* Other tips */

2009-12-09T12:03:17Z

Other tips

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:03, 9 December 2009
Line 35:		Line 35:
	==Other tips==		==Other tips==

	'''HarryMann:''' Mini-moles can often start pan-head self-tappers moving, obviosuly not countersunks, although try if you can get at it from behind, even torque the threaded portion off, less to unscrew!		'''HarryMann:'''

			Mini-moles can often start pan-head self-tappers moving, obviosuly not countersunks, although try if you can get at it from behind, even torque the threaded portion off, less to unscrew!

	Drive head around using the technique described in General Tools [[General Screw/bolt punch\|Screw/nut/bolt punch (drift)]], maybe using a proper screw/bolt punch or deliberately blunted chisel edge. It works, specially when acces to the head with a screwdriver is poor or blocked off.		Drive head around using the technique described in General Tools [[General Screw/bolt punch\|Screw/nut/bolt punch (drift)]], maybe using a proper screw/bolt punch or deliberately blunted chisel edge. It works, specially when acces to the head with a screwdriver is poor or blocked off.

			Of course, left-hand drills are availble too, ideal to help unscrew as you're drilling it out, whichever happens first... but not something you can buy around the corner.

	'''Bombhead:''' If you can get it try this stuff... EZ-Grip		'''Bombhead:''' If you can get it try this stuff... EZ-Grip

	[[General EZGrip]]		[[General EZGrip]]

HarryMann: /* Drill the head off */

2009-12-07T22:48:09Z

Drill the head off

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:48, 7 December 2009
Line 31:		Line 31:
	Drilling out - self tappers can be 'really' hard steel, a cobalt (Co8) drill should get the head off though, go for a size fractionally larger than you estinate the top of the thread shank. All you really need to do is get the head off first though, then can address the screw itself, might even then knock or wind out. Get to back of it and unwind with pliers, moles, wobble it etc.		Drilling out - self tappers can be 'really' hard steel, a cobalt (Co8) drill should get the head off though, go for a size fractionally larger than you estinate the top of the thread shank. All you really need to do is get the head off first though, then can address the screw itself, might even then knock or wind out. Get to back of it and unwind with pliers, moles, wobble it etc.

			NB. Cautions: can blunt your good drills this way, maybe start smaller than shank-size, get it 'cutting first' at lower speed, don't let it overheat, watch what's behind if blind!

	==Other tips==		==Other tips==

HarryMann at 22:45, 7 December 2009

2009-12-07T22:45:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:45, 7 December 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
			==Basic advice==

	'''HarryMann:''' Threaded or self-tapping screws through sheet steel or bulkheads can be difficult to remove due rusted threads.		'''HarryMann:''' Threaded or self-tapping screws through sheet steel or bulkheads can be difficult to remove due rusted threads.
	e.g. the four screws holding the heater box to the bulkhead protruding through to behind radiator area.		e.g. the four screws holding the heater box to the bulkhead protruding through to behind radiator area.

	Whenever screw threads protrude and rust, first wire brush when dry (long single row ~~ones~~ are as handy as the big 'uns), then ~~penoil~~. If they're of the No.3 size or larger and well supported (heavy metal behind), then might try an impact screwdriver to initially loosen. Screw back in a bit, repeat wire-brush/penoil, then work them out slowly. Once they're a bit loose can spray threads from front as well.		Whenever screw threads protrude and rust, first wire brush when dry (long single row wire-brushes are as handy as the big unwieldy 4-row'uns), then pen-oil. If they're of the No.3 size or larger and well supported (heavy metal behind), then might try an impact screwdriver to initially loosen. Screw back in a bit, repeat wire-brush/penoil, then work them out slowly. Once they're a bit loose can spray threads from front as well. <br>
			NB. Only if can get small enough or correct bit for Impact Driver, some only have PZ3 and up

	As we all know, half heartedly attacking with wrong screwdriver or not enough bodyweight behind it to start with, can be regretted in less time than it takes to find ~~trhe~~ right screwdriver or bit.		'''As we all know, half heartedly attacking with wrong screwdriver or not enough bodyweight behind it to start with, can be regretted in less time than it takes to find the right screwdriver or bit.'''

	Another trick is to have someone tap the end of the screwdriver as you provide the torque. No result? Then grip better and get helper to tap harder (simulates an impact screwdriver).		Another trick is to have someone tap the end of the screwdriver as you provide the torque. No result? Then grip better and get helper to tap harder (simulates an impact screwdriver).

			==Another take on it:==

	~~'''~~Another take on it:~~'''~~


	'''Scouse:''' Can anybody advise the best way to remove the self tapper screws which have seized, and just round off, and do you think this is my only option.		'''Scouse:''' Can anybody advise the best way to remove the self tapper screws which have seized, and just round off, and do you think this is my only option.
Line 26:		Line 26:
	It's also sometimes possible to get a 'very good quality' pair of moles or mini-moles onto the self-tapper's head, work them to create opposing flats. Again, once it moves, alternate tightening and loosening in stages.		It's also sometimes possible to get a 'very good quality' pair of moles or mini-moles onto the self-tapper's head, work them to create opposing flats. Again, once it moves, alternate tightening and loosening in stages.

	~~--Other--~~

	~~Normal old~~-~~fashioned hammer~~-~~blow~~-~~type Impact screwdriver (~~if can get ~~small enough or correct bit~~!~~, some only have PZ3 and up)~~		==Drill the head off==

			Drilling out - self tappers can be 'really' hard steel, a cobalt (Co8) drill should get the head off though, go for a size fractionally larger than you estinate the top of the thread shank. All you really need to do is get the head off first though, then can address the screw itself, might even then knock or wind out. Get to back of it and unwind with pliers, moles, wobble it etc.


			==Other tips==

			'''HarryMann:''' Mini-moles can often start pan-head self-tappers moving, obviosuly not countersunks, although try if you can get at it from behind, even torque the threaded portion off, less to unscrew!

	Drive around using the technique described ~~above~~ in Tools ~~(screw~~/bolt punch), maybe using a proper screw/bolt punch or deliberately blunted chisel edge		Drive head around using the technique described in General Tools [[General Screw/bolt punch\|Screw/nut/bolt punch (drift)]], maybe using a proper screw/bolt punch or deliberately blunted chisel edge. It works, specially when acces to the head with a screwdriver is poor or blocked off.

	'''Bombhead:''' If you can get it try this stuff... EZ-Grip		'''Bombhead:''' If you can get it try this stuff... EZ-Grip

	[[General EZGrip]]		[[General EZGrip]]

HarryMann at 22:35, 7 December 2009

2009-12-07T22:35:18Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:35, 7 December 2009
Line 34:		Line 34:
	'''Bombhead:''' If you can get it try this stuff... EZ-Grip		'''Bombhead:''' If you can get it try this stuff... EZ-Grip

	[General EZGrip]		[[General EZGrip]]

HarryMann at 22:21, 7 December 2009

2009-12-07T22:21:49Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:21, 7 December 2009
Line 25:		Line 25:

	It's also sometimes possible to get a 'very good quality' pair of moles or mini-moles onto the self-tapper's head, work them to create opposing flats. Again, once it moves, alternate tightening and loosening in stages.		It's also sometimes possible to get a 'very good quality' pair of moles or mini-moles onto the self-tapper's head, work them to create opposing flats. Again, once it moves, alternate tightening and loosening in stages.

			--Other--

			Normal old-fashioned hammer-blow-type Impact screwdriver (if can get small enough or correct bit!, some only have PZ3 and up)

			Drive around using the technique described above in Tools (screw/bolt punch), maybe using a proper screw/bolt punch or deliberately blunted chisel edge

			'''Bombhead:''' If you can get it try this stuff... EZ-Grip

			[General EZGrip]

HarryMann at 22:27, 29 April 2007

2007-04-29T22:27:10Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:27, 29 April 2007
Line 13:		Line 13:


	'''Scouse:'''Can anybody advise the best way to remove the self tapper screws which have seized, and just round off, and do you think this is my only option.''		'''Scouse:''' Can anybody advise the best way to remove the self tapper screws which have seized, and just round off, and do you think this is my only option.

HarryMann at 20:12, 7 October 2006

2006-10-07T20:12:50Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:12, 7 October 2006
Line 13:		Line 13:


	''Can anybody advise the best way to remove the self tapper screws which have seized, and just round off, and do you think this is my only option.''		'''Scouse:'''Can anybody advise the best way to remove the self tapper screws which have seized, and just round off, and do you think this is my only option.''


	'''HarryMann:'''		'''HarryMann:'''

	Screwdrivers vary, not just in size but quality and fit of the head, which can usually be 'felt' straight away, either it feels like it will or it feels like it won't, in which case pickup another one of the right size and try that).		Screwdrivers vary, not just in size but quality and fit of the head, which can usually be 'felt' straight away, either it feels like it will or it feels like it won't, in which case pickup another one of the right size and try that.

	Sounds like you're past that stage, so just drill the heads off with sharp drill slightly larger than your estinmate of the thread size, then when all is off and accessible, with a small sharp drill, drill the screw out of the hole. Or, wind the thread out backwards with a pair of molegrips or good quality pliers.		Sounds like you're past that stage, so just drill the heads off with sharp drill slightly larger than your estinmate of the thread size, then when all is off and accessible, with a small sharp drill, drill the screw out of the hole. Or, wind the thread out backwards with a pair of molegrips or good quality pliers.

HarryMann at 20:12, 7 October 2006

2006-10-07T20:12:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:12, 7 October 2006
Line 12:		Line 12:
	'''Another take on it:'''		'''Another take on it:'''

	'''Scouse:''' I have a Devon conversion on my 2l aircooled, and the dam sky light is leaking. The roof is side lifting one, and the only place i can see where the water is coming from is a small crack in the rim where the screwa are positioned. Having used sealant and tape and it still leaks, I have taken the decision to remove the skylight and either refurbish it or replace it with another one i have obtained.

	''Can anybody advise the best way to remove the self tapper screws which have seized, and just round off, and do you think this is my only option.''		''Can anybody advise the best way to remove the self tapper screws which have seized, and just round off, and do you think this is my only option.''
Line 19:		Line 18:
	'''HarryMann:'''		'''HarryMann:'''

	If there's any slots left at all, put some mole grips on the screwdriver and whilst forcing it in and 'gently' unscrewing repeatedly tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer, a la impact driver method, tap fast and lever as the hammer strikes home (screwdrivers vary, not just in size but quality and fit of the head, which can usually be 'felt' straight away, either it feels like it will or it feels like it won't, in which case pickup another one of the right size and try that).		Screwdrivers vary, not just in size but quality and fit of the head, which can usually be 'felt' straight away, either it feels like it will or it feels like it won't, in which case pickup another one of the right size and try that).

	Sounds like you're past that stage, so just drill the heads off with sharp drill slightly larger than your estinmate of the thread size, then when all is off and accessible, with a small sharp drill, drill the screw out of the hole. Or, wind the thread out backwards with a pair of molegrips or good quality pliers.		Sounds like you're past that stage, so just drill the heads off with sharp drill slightly larger than your estinmate of the thread size, then when all is off and accessible, with a small sharp drill, drill the screw out of the hole. Or, wind the thread out backwards with a pair of molegrips or good quality pliers.

HarryMann at 20:10, 7 October 2006

2006-10-07T20:10:17Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:10, 7 October 2006
Line 9:		Line 9:


	~~======~~

	'''Another take on it:'''		'''Another take on it:'''

HarryMann: /* == */

2006-10-07T18:46:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:46, 7 October 2006
Line 1:		Line 1:
	'''HarryMann:''' Threaded or self-tapping screws through sheet steel or bulkheads can be difficult to remove due rusted threads.		'''HarryMann:''' Threaded or self-tapping screws through sheet steel or bulkheads can be difficult to remove due rusted threads.
	e.g. the four screws holding the heater box to the bulkhead protruding through to behind radiator area.		e.g. the four screws holding the heater box to the bulkhead protruding through to behind radiator area.

Line 20:		Line 20:
	'''HarryMann:'''		'''HarryMann:'''

	If there's any slots left at all, put some mole grips on the screwdriver and whilst forcing it in and 'gently' unscrewing repeatedly tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer, a la impact driver method, tap fast and lever as the hammer strikes home (screwdrivers vary, not just in size but quality and fit of the head, which can usually be 'felt' straight away, either it feels like it will or it feels ~~liek~~ it won't, in which case pickup another one of the right size and try that).		If there's any slots left at all, put some mole grips on the screwdriver and whilst forcing it in and 'gently' unscrewing repeatedly tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer, a la impact driver method, tap fast and lever as the hammer strikes home (screwdrivers vary, not just in size but quality and fit of the head, which can usually be 'felt' straight away, either it feels like it will or it feels like it won't, in which case pickup another one of the right size and try that).

	Sounds like you're past that stage so just drill the heads off, then when all is off an accessible, with a small sharp drill, drill the screw out of the hole.		Sounds like you're past that stage, so just drill the heads off with sharp drill slightly larger than your estinmate of the thread size, then when all is off and accessible, with a small sharp drill, drill the screw out of the hole. Or, wind the thread out backwards with a pair of molegrips or good quality pliers.

	The problem is often that the first thing to do is ~~[i]~~not ~~[/i]~~to try to unscrew the screw. It is to get access to behind it, wire brush thread thoroughly and apply Plus-Gas or a 'good' pen. oil and leave for a while. Then, try to move the screw in either direction, try slightly ~~tigtheing~~ as well as slightly loosening, alternate then brush and pen. oil again when it first moves~~, p~~ and unscrew in stages.		The problem is often that the first thing to do is '''not''' to try to unscrew the screw. It is to get access to behind it, wire brush thread thoroughly and apply Plus-Gas or a 'good' pen. oil and leave for a while. Then, try to move the screw in either direction, try slightly tightening as well as slightly loosening, alternate then brush and pen. oil again when it first moves and unscrew in stages.

	~~Its~~ also sometimes possible to get a 'very good ~~aulity~~' pair of moles or mini moles onto the self-tapper's head. Again, once it moves, alternate ~~tighteninga nd~~ loosening in stages.		It's also sometimes possible to get a 'very good quality' pair of moles or mini-moles onto the self-tapper's head, work them to create opposing flats. Again, once it moves, alternate tightening and loosening in stages.